Technical Torque settings for front hub nut??

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Technical Torque settings for front hub nut??

leeds1972

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Hi, is anybody able to tell me the torque settings for the front hub nut please? It would be much appreciated!
 
IIRC 240NM.

Cheers

SPD
This seems very high, can anyone else confirm that the front hub nut torque is 240NM ?

Looking at a video by RIDEX for the Punto 2b 188



Hub bearing is 178 Nm

Wheel nuts are 120 Nm

Bottom of shock set of nuts and bolts are 77 Nm

Tracking Rod Ball Joint nut is 64 Nm

Lower arm bolts nut is 55 Nm

Hub nut size is 36 mm
 
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With parallel bearings, the hub nuts are usually done to a very high torque, or by angle (also typically a very high torque)
 
With parallel bearings, the hub nuts are usually done to a very high torque, or by angle (also typically a very high torque)
Thanks for your reply but still dont understand why some one quotes 240Nm with no reference and a company selling the bearing has an entire professional "how to replace" video and it shows 178 Nm ? I did it back up to 178 Nm and the markings on nut and thread align. My torque wrench only goes to 200 Nm max. Confused ? Then again, they say in the video to use a 32mm socket and its actually a 36mm socket that's required.
 

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Different models, even different engines for the same car may have different sizes.
Likewise, different size nuts, driveshafts and bearings will have different torques - you need to find the one for your car. Haynes is a good starting point for most cars.

And you can buy torque wrenches that go above 200Nm, or a simple bit of physics and maths to work out what weight to put where on a breaker bar.
 
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Different models, even different engines for the same car may have different sizes.
Likewise, different size nuts, driveshafts and bearings will have different torques - you need to find ht eone for your car. Haynes is a good starting point for most cars.

And you can buy torque wrenches that go above 200Nm, or a simple bit of physics and maths to work out what weight to put where on a breaker bar.
thank you for your kind reply :) - I am getting so many different figures, I just asked my ex main dealer independent mechanic who simply did not have time to do the job for me before MOT what he would have torqued it too if he had been able to fit me in and he said 150 Nm. Maybe I am overthinking the entire situation, thank you once more for your advice :)
 
thank you for your kind reply :) - I am getting so many different figures, I just asked my ex main dealer independent mechanic who simply did not have time to do the job for me before MOT what he would have torqued it too if he had been able to fit me in and he said 150 Nm. Maybe I am overthinking the entire situation, thank you once more for your advice :)
150nm? does not sound right. Haynes has 240nm and a new nut.
 
Lots of confusion going on here and as i found out in the past if you go too tight you can actually crush the bearings.

Fiat eLearn has this for all drive shafts from 1.2 to 1.9: 7 daNm is 70Nm plus the angle
1720526997176.png
 
Lots of confusion going on here and as i found out in the past if you go too tight you can actually crush the bearings.

Fiat eLearn has this for all drive shafts from 1.2 to 1.9: 7 daNm is 70Nm plus the angle
View attachment 448125

Are there really any puntos with 24mm hub nuts?

Here is my old one.
 

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Lots of confusion going on here and as i found out in the past if you go too tight you can actually crush the bearings.

The CV joint buts up to the back of, and the nut sits on the front of the inner race/hub.

The design of modern wheel bearings, a sealed unit that is manufactured and is not dependent on pressure like an old tapered bearing, means you should never be able to "crush" the bearing. The pressure is only on the inner race which is hardened steel.
Are there really any puntos with 24mm hub nuts?
M24 will be the thread not the nut size

which you can literally see in your picture the 24mm socket on the left has the same internal width as the internal diameter of the nut.

This seems very high, can anyone else confirm that the front hub nut torque is 240NM ?
I will check later, last time i looked it up which was only a couple of weeks ago it was 240nM
but this may vary between diesel and petrol cars

Several of the torque settings in the at video seem wrong to me and my recollection.
 
The CV joint buts up to the back of, and the nut sits on the front of the inner race/hub.

The design of modern wheel bearings, a sealed unit that is manufactured and is not dependent on pressure like an old tapered bearing, means you should never be able to "crush" the bearing. The pressure is only on the inner race which is hardened steel.

M24 will be the thread not the nut size

which you can literally see in your picture the 24mm socket on the left has the same internal width as the internal diameter of the nut.


I will check later, last time i looked it up which was only a couple of weeks ago it was 240nM
but this may vary between diesel and petrol cars

Several of the torque settings in the at video seem wrong to me and my recollection.
Thanks for clearing that up Andy. One poster on this thread has 36mm socket size. I was reading a punto sports UK thread saying it needed 280nm.
 
True enough, I was remembering my old Escort which I proper screwed up by over torquing - it had separate bearing shells and tapered bearings.

It would be interesting to see what 70Nm plus 62 degrees finalises at as the the torque mounts up fast once a bolts becomes snug. Maybe the 180Nm/240Nm is a simplified go to figure Autodoc and Haynes etc. have published for the average home mechanic?

IMHO if fiatpunt0 has done it up to 178Nm it won't be coming undone on its own accord. Stake the nut, mark it with paint and check again in a few weeks. Then forget about it.
 
It would be interesting to see what 70Nm plus 62 degrees finalises at as the the torque mounts up fast once a bolts becomes snug. Maybe the 180Nm/240Nm is a simplified go to figure Autodoc and Haynes etc. have published for the average home mechanic?
Angular torque figures are normally used when you are stretching the components, like headbolts and the torque value is a bit different on every bolt.
And at high torque then you have the condition of the thread to think about, a rough thread will need more torque than a smooth or lubricated thread for the same clamping force, so the angle is a better way since the clamping force is more accurate as distance along the thread rather than rotational force.
 
For me these Hub nuts are very difficult to get. I got 6 of the middle one from Autodoc for 28 Euro in 2020, They have the correct part number but are too short to stake. Autodoc said I could keep the nuts and they credited my account. I finally got the correct nut locally with a boot for the outer CV joint. So back at this Finnish retail part supplier I now had a manufacturers part number for that nut, but even though they tried every system they had it was impossible to order a few nuts.
 

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