Technical Tool for staking hub nut?
- Thread starter Shuggie
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Technical Tool for staking hub nut?
Small cold chisel or scrap screwdriver
Greasytrucker
Established member
+1 that’s my normal tool of choice
Would be my choice too. Here's the two I tend to use depending on how wide I need it to be.
I've put them alongside my short handled 1lb pall pein to give an idea of size.
And here's the ends again for comparison
How do you like the "fancy" chisel? the one second down in the first picture. I think it's one of the best looking chisels I've ever seen - just love the shape of it! Oh, and no, the end you hit is meant to be that shape it's not just that I've never cleaned it up.
Anything
Punch
Blunt chisel
Home made
There are proper tools
They are little more than a rounded off chisel
Here's a home made one, not mine
A strike through pry bar also work
Garage normally use a blunt air chisel
Fiat elearn does not specify a special tool
Punch
Blunt chisel
Home made
There are proper tools
They are little more than a rounded off chisel
Here's a home made one, not mine
A strike through pry bar also work
Garage normally use a blunt air chisel
Fiat elearn does not specify a special tool
Basically, nothing sharp.
Just put a new one on the N/S due to having the hub assembly off. I got two off eBay for about six quid. So now I have a spare. 
I do have a 6" cold chisel and I think I'll have a go at modifying that using a grinding disc so the sharp end has a more suitable profile. My earlier staking efforts are not unsafe, but I'd like to do the job properly
It used to be common practice to swap the N/S and O/S over when reassembling as they would usually then present a different part of the nut for locking over. So you could use the same nut twice. probably not acceptable now a days though. Anyway, a new nut isn't that expensive in the grand order of things.Just put a new one on the N/S due to having the hub assembly off. I got two off eBay for about six quid. So now I have a spare.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Pussies. I put my laguna into The French Conection Dereham for emergency clutch release bearing before we went on holiday. They couldnt get the drive shaft out of the hub. The car was returned with no hub nut. They cut it, and the end of the drive shaft, off with an angle grinder! Needless to say words were had and a refund of £862 produced. It must have been fairly obvious someone was going to be badly wounded if a word of argument was said. That did include a complete redo by the main dealer and a new driveshaft. Clearly some experts here think the nut is un necessary.
Couldn't swear to it but I'm sure there was another groove at 180 deg's Thinking about it there must have been as the old nut had two bash marks on it. When I get a chance I'll dig it out and take a photo.
Whoa! Am I understanding this? They cut off the big nut and the end of the driveshaft - so the end of the CV shaft that protrudes from the hub which you would see when the wheel is removed? - But then, because they couldn't get the shaft out of the hub, they gave you the car back with not only no hub nut but also part of the shaft missing? Blimey! Did they suggest you drive it away like that or did they have it transported to the main dealer? I've come across some pretty stubborn rusted in drive shafts in my time, and they can be very difficult indeed to shift, especially if you're working at home, but, with workshop facilities like a good air supply and a brute of an air hammer and maybe the Oxy-Acetylene torch - maybe even removing the hub complete and "attacking" it with the Press - I've never worked anywhere that would be defeated by a problem like this.
Just rereading your post before clicking "post reply". Have I missed something? The car went in to them for a clutch release bearing? Had the shaft come out Ok then that would have been:- Gearbox out, release bearing changed for a new one and 'box refitted? I have to admit I have never done one on a Laguna but would expect that to have come in with a little change from £500? However I notice they refunded you £862. Did it have a new clutch and maybe dual mass flywheel too?
Reminds me of an incident regarding a Metro drive shaft nut. A big nut, and a high torque figure.
A warranty claim was submitted claiming that the wheel bearings had failed prematurely, taking CV joint, nut, washer, hub, brake disc and pads with it. All the parts were returned for inspection. The nut showed evidence of chisel damage. It was common to chisel them off if they'd grown on, but this one had chisel damage for tightening it. Not sure how you achieve the correct high torque figure with a hammer and chisel. Warranty claim rejected. Thankfully, not a garage that fitted the bearings, home DIY job.
Greasytrucker
Established member
If I remember correctly Metro weren’t taper rollers whereas classic Mini were, torque settings were much lower for Metro. I can remember many a bearing being lunched due to being over tightened using classic Mini torque settings!
I thinkthe fronts were both the same design, two large bearings, with a spacer between. The nut clamped the bearings against the spacer, which gave a set preload, unadjustable. There was a tapered washer on the outside, under the nut, which would chaffe and wear quickly if not tight, quickly giving slack bearings which would fail.
I think the rears may have been fixed bearings, whereas the mini was a taper roller.
Edit: Bit of research on Rimmer bros. website.
Mini was two bearings, with a step on the inner races, creating a spacer. Metro had a large single piece bearing, pressed into the hub.
The Mini had the tapered washer, the Metro did not. My memory of the failed parts must have been for a Mini, or perhaps an Austin 1100 or Allegro, as there was definiotely a tapered washer, and a brake disc.
None of this detail is really of importance, as teh point was that the nut had been tightened using a chisel, rather than a torque wrench.
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The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Yep. No nut no thread or shaft left at all. They just said they couldnt get the shaft out. I suggested that an ape could have at least decided to remove the strut and suspension arm and hub complete if required and the bill would have been a hell of a lot less, and not ruined a £350 drive shaft.I was off towing a heavy caravan three days later. Fortunately the Renault dealer got and fitted a shaft and redid ALL the other work they had done. He went on to accuse me of balling him out in front of other customers when I went back for a refund and repayment of the dealers bill. I think he got the fact that I REALLY wanted to hit him very very hard for putting my family at risk. The dealer did not report any problem getting the stub out of the hub. Maybe driving it a few miles before I discovered what they had done loosened it. lol. I think the moron doing the work is still active in this area. They just gave the car back and said nothing. I should have had trading standards involved really. I just wanted to get the car right so we didnt loose our holiday. To this day I cannot fathom any sane reason for what they did. Sadly the owner died of a heart attack a few years afterwards and I didnt find out in time to celebrate at his funeral.
I'm not saying this was the case here, but I've worked on cars where especially the rear bearings had a left hand thread on one side. Not sure if that was used on the fronts though.
Yup, me too. Don't ever remember coming across left hand threaded front hub nuts though. Probably because it would mean making "special" CV joints with left hand threads whereas they only need to make one type for both sides if they stick with right hand threads? Quite a number of cars had left hand threaded wheel bolts on the N/S though - I remember learning about this on the first Alfa I ever worked on.
Here's a couple of the taper washers and two different sized spacers:
Looking more closely at one of the washers I see it's grooved where the nut bears on it:
This was typical of wear which happened when the nut wasn't tightened enough or worked loose and the nut - which I seem to remember was split pinned? - would "fret" against it. Once the nut loosened the bearing preload was destroyed and early failure was to be expected.
I remember the first time I had to do a one piece bearing. It was an Austin Maxi N/S front and I didn't understand it was one piece as I'd never seen one before - done a lot of "normal" twin race type which were easily done with a punch. So I started out by knocking out the inner races only to find the outer was all one piece! Not the slightest hope of shifting that with a punch, you're going to need a press. So, after struggling with it for some time I got the boss's permission to take it down to the local engineering company who did it for us on their hydraulic press.
I always thought the way they mounted the brake disc was crazy. On the inside of the hub which carried the wheel bearing. So, to change a disc you always risked destroying the wheel bearing as you tried to draw the hub out of the upright.
And, while we're on about the old BMC/BL FWD vehicles, Here's a wee test for older forum members. Anyone know what this is:
If you've worked much on Mini, Allegro, 1100/1300 etc you'll have bumped into them on many occasions.
I saw it in the earlier pictures. I think it is the seat for the upper and lower swivel ball joints. Used to have to buy all the bits separately, until they at last made a kit. Used to have a little stiff spring under it, that could also be used in the ends of the steering racks on Mini, 11/1300, Maxi, Allegro and Marina. Glad they were still avialable separately when the ones in my Marina rack broke. Cheap repair instead of a complete rack.
rimmerbros.com
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The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Now you say this I vaguely remember. Also looks like some of the bits of Mini rubber cone front suspension.I saw it in the earlier pictures. I think it is the seat for the upper and lower swivel ball joints. Used to have to buy all the bits separately, until they at last made a kit. Used to have a little stiff spring under it, that could also be used in the ends of the steering racks on Mini, 11/1300, Maxi, Allegro and Marina. Glad they were still avialable separately when the ones in my Marina rack broke. Cheap repair instead of a complete rack.
Ball Joint Kit (uppr & lower) - 8G4197EVAP | Rimmer Bros
Order your Ball Joint Kit (uppr & lower) - 8G4197EVAP ⛽ Low prices and fast, worldwide delivery ✈ British car experts ♚ Call ☎ 01522 568000 or ☎ 1-855-746-2767
