Technical timing belt 110 JTD

[bikes-for-me]

Hi to everyone.Has any body done the timing belt and if so ,is it easy any special tools needed and if so where can you get them and price please.
Just starting to have problems with mine,gearbox and mot probs.
Bleed clutch a lot better now but not 100%,but changed gearbox oil but not tried it yet,due to fixing other problems for mot.
Drop bars ,anti roll bar bushes,front pads and discs,2 front tyres,battery strap bolt snapped,rear seat belt sticking.
Managed to split the anti roll bar bushes ,quite a easy job,and i have found somewhere where you can buy the bushes only £30 the pair.

 

[Zundapp]

Hi bfm, where did you find the bushes? And do they fit well enough?

 

[JTDman]

Belt was quite easy and im a belt virgin (although not on my pants as im a little rouns) ill try and copy summat for you .

 

[JTDman]

Removal

NOTE: the high pressure fuel pump fitted to the JTD engine does not require timing.


1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle
2. Remove
...RH front wheel
...RH inner wing panel
...Engine undersheild (if its got one)
...Auxiliary drive belt
...Flywheel housing lower cover.

3. Fit flywheel locking tool (1) tool no 1860898000
4. Remove:
...Crankshaft pulley bolts (2)
...Crankshaft pulley (3).
...Flywheel locking tool (1).
...Timing belt lower cover.
...Engine steady bar and bracket.
...Timing belt upper cover.

5. Turn crankshaft clockwise to tdc an No1 cylinder. Ensure pin on crankshaftsprocket aligned centally with cylider bock (4).
6. Ensure camshaft sprocket timing marks aligned(5).
... To engine No 416 449:Camshaft sprocket timing mark seven teeth behind cylinder head cover timing mark. Three teeth in front of cylinder head cover lower edge.(15)

Note Camshaft sprocket timing mark position can be offset by approx 3 deg or 1/2 a tooth.
...From engine No 416 450 ensure timing marks aligned(16)

7. If timing marks not aligned: Turn crankshaft one turn clockwise.
8. Slacken tensioner sprocket nut (6) Move tensioner sprocket away from belt. Lightlytighten nut
9. Remove timing belt.


PICCIES TO FOLLOW AND FITTING INSTRUCTIONS>

 

[bikes-for-me]

Thats brill JTDMAN, did you use a pattern belt kit or a fiat one,is there a photo to these instructions.
I have the cd manual but not easy to use,and i can not print any of it,no option there.I like working on the car myself,just wish there was a proper manual or a pdf file one i could print off.I can not afford garage bills,and think you do better job yourself then a rushed over priced job most garages will do.
Love the car had it 3yrs now,but starting to get problems which you can expect at 86k.Was going to sell it and buy a 806 , but took it off the road to sort out and keep it.Short of funds since lost job before xmas,so its the odd job here and there ,when i can afford it.
The electrics have always been rubbish,horn sometimes works,front interior light never worked .Tested the bulb and its fine,mirrors have mind of there own,offside flaps in the wind.Got to sort leaking sunfoofs,at present doing drop bars,anti roll bushes,front discs and pads.
So got my hands full but pockets empty,come on the lottery.

 

[JTDman]

I can type the fitting section but the source im copying from wont let me right click and copy the images so some of the instructions are not going to make sense sorry, i never used a locking tool for the flywheel i just used a prybar wedged in from underneath to stop the flywheel moving but to be honest it wasnt required as i never took the crank pulley off either

I simply marked all the existing belt up with the timing marks and made various marks around the cam pulleys and crank pulleys and used this a check for the new belt that went on , its deff worth changing the water pump as they are not tha expensive and some have a plastic impellor which can detach causing heat probs later.
I also changed the cambelt idlet and tensioner which i have to say is an absolute must on these , mine was off the road for 2 weeks while waiting for various other parts and onced removed i could not turn the tensioner toothed wheel at all!!!!!!!!!!!! so lucky i did not short cut or it would have been the end.
I bought a cambelt kit from either buypartsbuy or shop4parts think its the same place tbh!. also the water pump again not expensive.
I paid about £50 for the belt kit which was a conti belt with tensioner and idler included which was cheap i now need the aux belt tensioner as thats squeeaking now and could throw the cambelt off:bang: but hey its getting on now so it needs doing.

ill go and try and retrieve some prices bare with me.

 

[JTDman]

Pretty sure this is what i paid and is cheap

https://sslrelay.com/buypartsby.co.uk/timing-belt-kit-info.php?recordID=2047

check the year though.
This is the water pump as well

https://sslrelay.com/buypartsby.co.uk/water_pump_details.php?recordID=1531

 

[JTDman]

Installation

1. Ensure pin on crankshaft sprocket aligned centrally with cylinder block (4)
2.Remove oil pump bolt. insert stud of crankshaft timing tool (7) tool no 1860905000.
3.Fit timing belt to crankshaft sprocket.
NOTE; Observe direction of rotation marks on belt.
4.Fit timing tool to crankshaft sprocket (8) tool no 1860965000. Ensure pin on crankshaft sprocket located correctly in tool (4). Secure with bolt (9).
5. Ensure camshaft sprocket timing marks aligned (5).
6.Except JTD Insert timing pin in injection pump sprocket (10). tool 1860965000. Slacken bolts(11).
7.Fit timing belt in following order.
...Guide pulley
...camshaft sprocket....High pressure fuel pump/ injection pump sprocket.
...Tensioner sprocket.
...Water pump pulley.

8. Ensure timing belt marks aligned.
...camshaft sprocket(17).
...Except JTD camshaft and injection pump sprockets(17).

NOTE Ensure belt is taught between sprockets on non tensioned side.

9.Slacken tensioner sprocket nut (6)
10. Lever tensioner sprocket bracket at position (12) until pointer (13) at maximum setting.
11. Tighten tensioner sprocket nut (6).
...m8 nut 25nm
...m10 nut 50 nm

12.Except JTD tighten injection pump sprocket bolts (11).
13.Remove
...Except JTD timing pin (10).
...timing tool (8).

14. Fit oil pump bolt.
15. Turn crankshaft 2 turns clockwise.
15. Slacken tensioner sprocket nut (6).
17.Lever tensioner sprocket bracket at position (12) until pointer (13) and mark (14) aligned.
18 Tighten tensioner sprocket nut (6).
...m8 nut 25nm
...m10 nut 50 nm

19. Install components in reverse order of removal.
20. Tighten crankshaft pulley bolts (2). Tightening torque 25nm.



as i said i didnt really do half of this and im still trying to get the piccies uploaded bare with me.

 

[JTDman]

Right lets see if this works

 

[JTDman]

yipee! i had to take photo's of my screen with my phone then upload them that is the top and bottom half of the picture that goes with the text but if you print them both you can marry them back up.

Hope it helps mate.

 

[bikes-for-me]

JTDMAN you are the man,bloody brill that,the parts place is a Nottingham number which is 0nly 20 mile from me.
Big :worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship:

 

[johne]

Just to back up what JTDman has said, I managed to do the job without special tools, though it's useful to have a selection of spanners/socket extensions to fit between the engine and inner wing - otherwise it's easy to cross thread the tensioner (or was it the idler) bolt. I recall that getting the top engine steady off was a bit of a pain as well. Make sure you don't drop the spacer/washer that goes between the idler and engine if you change the idler.
Oh, I did use one special tool - a bottle of tippex.
John.

 

[bikes-for-me]

Just to back up what JTDman has said, I managed to do the job without special tools, though it's useful to have a selection of spanners/socket extensions to fit between the engine and inner wing - otherwise it's easy to cross thread the tensioner (or was it the idler) bolt. I recall that getting the top engine steady off was a bit of a pain as well. Make sure you don't drop the spacer/washer that goes between the idler and engine if you change the idler.
Oh, I did use one special tool - a bottle of tippex.
John.

Cool. looking good for job to do then.Did you change water pump.

 

[JTDman]

I did as the cambelt has to come off to do it so while your there
Also be very carefull with the sensor behind the camshaft pulley.

 

[bikes-for-me]

I did as the cambelt has to come off to do it so while your there
Also be very carefull with the sensor behind the camshaft pulley.

Cheers for that.Just waiting for front brakes and discs plus anti roll bar bushes to come.Got front pads and discs for £35 plus £15 postage from ebay. Seems very cheap to me.

 

[johne]

Cool. looking good for job to do then.Did you change water pump.

Didn't bother this time (approx 50,000 miles) though if I've still got the Multi when it's next due I probably will - When I had an Alfa 146 2lTS I changed the pump when I did the belt at about 110,000 and could tell once I had the old pump in my hand that it was starting to wear - but it hadn't affected the engine in any way.
John.

 

[weejim]

Good Guide JTD Man. It is always nice to do the things yourself if you can. Then you know it is done right and not rushed, plus it is a good idea to keep a receipt of the parts you buy, and make a record of when fitted, just in case you ever want to sell it some day. I had a friend who had a peugeot and said he got his timing belt changed at a garage for £80. I told him that it seemed a bit cheap, it turned out that they had just cleaned the timing cover, and not changed the belt at all. Then shut down and disappeared about a month later.

 

[Kartman]

hi all, just like to add that no fancy tools are really required just a bolt or drill bit to lock off the cam shaft and i just lined the crank up and left it there, the whole job took about an hour. (though i do quite a few cam belts) and yes that top guard is bit of a pain

Dave

 

[guizzo]

"no fancy tools are really required just a bolt or drill bit to lock off the cam shaft and i just lined the crank up and left it there"

Dave[/quote]

Hi,
I'm planning to do my timing belt soon, I've done one on a renault deisel and remember inserting a drill bit through a plug on the front of the engine to locate in the crankshaft web, where does the drill bit go on a jtd multi?

 

[fantauk]

Hi there,

I am in the middle of changing the cam belt and I notice that for the fitting of the belt it says "NOTE; Observe direction of rotation marks on belt." The old belt has no arrow. Which way should the arrow go?
Hope you can help.