Technical Thermostat flap position

[On Small Wheels]

I live in Phoenix Arizona and although I won’t be driving my 126 powered 500 in temperatures above 100 degrees,
My thermostat is shot and I’ve been reading that they are near useless in warm climates.
Because my engine compartment is very hot …..
Can I “fix”open the flap AND DEFLECT the air down and away from my 123 distributor?
The heat is really too high there in my opinion.

Thanks.

 

[LiteRye]

I live in Phoenix Arizona and although I won’t be driving my 126 powered 500 in temperatures above 100 degrees,
My thermostat is shot and I’ve been reading that they are near useless in warm climates.
Because my engine compartment is very hot …..
Can I “fix”open the flap AND DEFLECT the air down and away from my 123 distributor?
The heat is really too high there in my opinion.

Thanks.

You could try fitting one of the many “lid lift” kits like this

Abarth Chrome Engine Lid Opening Brackets - Classic Fiat 500 - Classic Fiat 500 N,D,F,L,R all models | Italian Car Parts Specialists

Abarth Chrome Engine Lid Opening Brackets - Classic Fiat 500 - Classic Fiat 500 N,D,F,L,R all models - Body, Exterior and Related Parts - Made in Italy These Chrome Brackets are fitted at the bottom of the engine lid between the rear panel and are used to

www.ricambio.co.uk

 

[Bounding Bambino]

Ive spend some time in AZ, your best bet is to just remove the flap. I realize that folks might not agree, but honestly the flap will do minimal affect to the airflow direction before it exits the case holes. Its honestly just a restriction if you never use it. You have a few options, some folks have made deflectors that protect the top half of the distributor from the airflow path. You can also try and wrap the distributor with exhaust insulating wrap. Although, i have yet to test and see if it actually offers lower overall temps (will test this summer). The lid lift is a good option, and can look cool depending on your cars style.

I hope your using a heavy weight oil in the toasty little one.

I know most of the folks here dont live in AZ, but i will give everyone a heads up. The Arizona summer heat is unlike anything most have experienced. Early September, Phoenix day highs of 48C (118F), with corresponding nights of like 34c. Its a whole other world imo.
Then a 3hr drive north, you hit the grand canyon, and its 6c and your stuck in shorts lol

 

[JumpJet]

Living in Yuma is what likely started the slow death of my 123 Ignition, but while there, she never missed a beat. Granted, I avoided driving her in the summer daytime heat for the most part.

 

[On Small Wheels]

Thanks for the input all.
I am going wrap my 123 distributor with a sheet of insulation and fabricate a deflector to direct the air away from it as well.

 

[Sleek Lemur]

How far is the flap supposed to open? I rebuilt my 500R engine from a lump found in a garden. It was missing the entire thermostat housing, so I bought one from Ricambio. I defo have the correct one, but the cut-out in the flap doesn't look big enough not to foul the distributor. It's been pretty chilly in England and I haven't seen the flap open yet!

 

[marcus550]

Reviving this thread - I have a 650cc that the thermostat never fully closes the flap. It's open a good 1/2"-3/4" (6-19mm) when cold. I can force it closed, heat it with a heat gun and see it works fine. But when it cools, it gets stuck well short of 'closed.' Is this normal? I have two thermostats that are exactly the same (spring type, not the old bellows style.) The rod has a bend in it. The tinware is in great shape. Should I bend the rod more to shorten it, forcing the flap closed?

 

[Sleek Lemur]

My flap was fouling my 123 distributor. Ground a bit of metal off and all ok. But I agree, it does all seem very hot. We've had record temps in UK. Engine lid and handle quite hot to the touch.

 

[the hobbler]

My flap was fouling my 123 distributor. Ground a bit of metal off and all ok. But I agree, it does all seem very hot. We've had record temps in UK. Engine lid and handle quite hot to the touch.

If the thermostat is fully open all the time, I am sure that a deflector could be made to direct the heat down, away from the body of the distributor. BUT, be aware, you will still have the heat of the now-deflected engine 'cooling air' aimed at the bottom of the distributor, which will slowly permeate to the body of the distributor! A possible solution would be to attach a metal barrier (strip of steel) to the thermostat housing so that the 'cooling air' does not flow over the distributor and using short engine cover 'lifters' (the pair of seperate lifters are better as the wide one that encompass both hinges are made that accurately) open up the bottom of the engine cover, using the opening handle/lock as the top of the locating 'triangle'