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General Supagard

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General Supagard

306maxi said:
super resin polish isn't a sealant. Have a Google and look at the difference between a polish and a wax.
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SRP is a combination cleaner, polish, scratch filler & sealant - it contains low molecular weight synthetic resins which will seal the paintwork.

http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HD&Range=1

though you do need to use a wax over it for best results.

It's pretty amazing stuff - I use it all over the place for all sorts of things. One alternative use which comes to mind is that it gives a very good finish on stainless steel in the kitchen. The solvent content, which removes tar spots, also works effectively on cooking fat & grease.
 
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306maxi said:
Rachel, it depends how bothered you are about the car as to how much you spend and what you buy. Personally I wouldn't go to a NF wash or a machine wash... But that's just me
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I thought the hand wash places were all good. Maybe I should do it myself then, I definately don't want to be scratching my new car when I get it, but with it being white I imagine it is going to need cleaning A LOT. It is looking like a resounding no to the Supaguard from you guys then? A guy I work with, his brother has his own garage they do respraying body work, repairs etc. He asked him about the Supaguard, he said the kit costs around £100 to do it yourself then it takes a few hours so if you were gonna pay a place to do it for you thats where the extra £100 would come into it. And he said he doesn't know anywhere that does it. So that doesn't sound good :( I've just cancelled my Supaguard aswell :confused:
 
lilrachiebaby89 said:
I definately don't want to be scratching my new car when I get it
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If you let the dealer prepare the car it'll be scratched before you even get it. I asked for mine to be delivered uncleaned as it came off the transporter, & clayed, washed & waxed it when I got it home.

lilrachiebaby89 said:
but with it being white I imagine it is going to need cleaning A LOT.
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My Panda is white & after preparing it properly (which took me most of a day), I can clean it in less than 45 minutes. The trick is to keep ahead of it - I wash mine at least once a week, whether it seems to need it or not. And I rewax it every 6-8 weeks.
 
grimwau said:
The only Supaguard product I use is the wheel sealer. After every wash a quick spray and wipe with a dry cloth keeps the alloys looking like new. :)
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IIRC the OP is getting steelies. If you wax the wheel trims, they're much easier to keep clean - just use the same stuff you wax the rest of the car with.
 
jrkitching said:
IIRC the OP is getting steelies. If you wax the wheel trims, they're much easier to keep clean - just use the same stuff you wax the rest of the car with.
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Ok Thanks, So wax is same for body of car as it is for wheel trims. Excellent, so what wax do I want? Anybody know any bargain ones? And is just any car shampoo work? If I just did those 2 steps? A family member has a jet wash he would let me use or wouldn't you recommend? Is the Diamondbrite people keep talking about a shampoo or is that the sealent thing I need to do myself. Sorry guys I'm so confused.
 
Rachael there are two main problems with even a hand car wash place. First, they tend to use sponges, rather than (either lambs wool or bobbly ones) wash mitts. Any grit on your car's paint will be scratched over the surface by a sponge, whereas a good wash mitt will bury it in the pile.

Their sponges tend to be kept in dirty water too whereas a good car washing person will use the "two bucket method" of rinsing the wash mitt in a different bucket before going back into the bucket of soapy water so the mitt always stays clean.

The second problem is that they tend to use "blades" to dry the cars. These are acryllic thingies that are very good at wiping water off a car prior to drying it. The problem is again dirt - any that gets trapped by the blade will scratch the paint as it is wiped over the car. A big speacial drying towel (or a load of mictofibre cloths) will be better and any residual dirt should again be buried in the pile, not dragged over your paint.

Chances are you won't see any such problems caused by this with the naked eye for a while, but over time your car will develop "swirls" in the paintwork - which are very tricky to get rid of.

Of course, a drive through car wash is infinitely worse again.

I would suggest a local travelling valet or "detailing" person for the first clean, and get him to clay it and wax or seal it (wax and sealant does the same thing really - polish not necessary on a new car as I said). Then you can buy (i) a wash mitt; (ii) good shampoo (soap); (iii) 2 buckets and (iv) a nice big soft drying towel. You can then wash it yourself (hose down, shampoo, clean with mitt using 2 buckets, rinse, dry) as and when you need to, and get the man back every 3 or 4 months to wax it again (and clay it if necessary).

Of course, you can use your hoover to do the interior.
 
RobinPJ said:
I would suggest a local travelling valet or "detailing" person for the first clean, and get him to clay it and wax or seal it (wax and sealant does the same thing really - polish not necessary on a new car as I said). Then you can buy (i) a wash mitt; (ii) good shampoo (soap); (iii) 2 buckets and (iv) a nice big soft drying towel. You can then wash it yourself (hose down, shampoo, clean with mitt using 2 buckets, rinse, dry) as and when you need to, and get the man back every 3 or 4 months to wax it again (and clay it if necessary).

Of course, you can use your hoover to do the interior.
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Perfect :) Thankyou.
 
lilrachiebaby89 said:
Ok Thanks, So wax is same for body of car as it is for wheel trims. Excellent, so what wax do I want? Anybody know any bargain ones? And is just any car shampoo work? If I just did those 2 steps? A family member has a jet wash he would let me use or wouldn't you recommend? Is the Diamondbrite people keep talking about a shampoo or is that the sealent thing I need to do myself. Sorry guys I'm so confused.
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By all means use the pressure wash aspect of it, but don't use it too close to the paintwork and keep it at an angle (so you don't sandblast it) especially when the paint is new and soft (think nail varnish). But for god's sake do not use any brush that forms a part of the jet wash programme (for all the reasons mentioned in my earlier posting, in spades).
 
RobinPJ said:
But for god's sake do not use any brush that forms a part of the jet wash programme (for all the reasons mentioned in my earlier posting, in spades).
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I didn't even know you could get brushes with a jet wash but I will be careful when using the water then not to spoil the paint, God when I go to the drive through car washes at the moment they blast the water at it hard standing really close to get all the sticky tree sap off it. Good job my current car is already covered in scratches.
 
This is all really useful information.

I've become obsessive about cleaning my 500 since I got it because it's black. I thought I was doing a great job the first couple of times until someone started talking to me about the 'two bucket method' and this and that. I never used to give a stuff about how I cleaned my car. I washed the dirt off. The end! I already have a few very fine swirl marks which I'm now furious about because I think I could've prevented it if I knew two/three weeks ago what I know now. I'm now looking at utilising the pressure washer we've got in the shed with some snow foam & a lance (what's happened to me?!).

At least with white swirl marks won't show up as bad, 'rachie!
 
lilrachiebaby89 said:
I didn't even know you could get brushes with a jet wash but I will be careful when using the water then not to spoil the paint, God when I go to the drive through car washes at the moment they blast the water at it hard standing really close to get all the sticky tree sap off it. Good job my current car is already covered in scratches.
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If the car is waxed well then tree sap will come off easily if not left for too long :)
 
Even I'm confused now! So many products!
Rachael, the stuff I used on my brand new 500 was Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection. Wash and dry the car then follow the instructions on the bottle. I ignored the bit about using a wax polish first as this had been done by the dealer.
 
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