I have just changed both bulbs on my stilo 1.9 JTD. Was in process of removing bumper when i noticed that you can access back of head lamps from wheel arch.
Here's how: Jack up vehicle to remove front wheel to corresponding headlamp. Remove All X point screws from plastic inner arch (don't forget screw under the sill). Pull out plastic inner arch. If you now look under arch you'll see you now have full access to rear of headlamp. Both bulb covers can now easily be removed and replaced.
Takes approx 30 mins to complete a side but you don't need many tools and this way prevents you getting permanent scarring.
Good luck and please pass this on to other stilo owners.