Technical Steering wheel off center and car pulling right.

[neiltheplumber]

Good morning all, only had my Panda Cross TA a few months now, but was only after my son said something, that I noticed that the steering wheel is slightly off center position anti clockwise, and that the car pulls very slightly to the right. Armed only with g clamps, tape measures, long straight edges and spirit levels, I went round and all seems parallel and equal. Tyre's good and correct pressures. Anything I can do myself, or is it time to pass it over to my local garage.

 

[koalar]

the car uses electric self centring


with the steering wheel anti clockwise it will always pull to the right



The track rod ends need adjusting slightly. But you need to keep the toe correct.

If you paint a mark and turn one side in one turn and the other out one turn the fetch the steering wheel back to centre then retest

 

[DaveMcT]

Turn the track rod adjusters to steer the wheels towards the left. Use EXACTLY the same number of spanner flats on left and right to keep the same wheel tracking. e.g. six flats INwards on one side will need six flats OUTwards on the other side. The setting is balanced when the car rolls straight with the steering wheel centred.

If you don't feel confident or if you suspect the tracking is not correct, take it to get the tracking set professionally.

 

[neiltheplumber]

Once again this forum has come to my rescue. Many thanks for your help which is greatly appreciated.
Cheers Neil

 

[Trimdoner]

Had exactly the same problem myself a few years ago - tracking set by a 'professional' garage left the wheel off centre, who couldn't understand why the new-fangled electronic steering would have that effect...:bang:

 

[DaveMcT]

Had exactly the same problem myself a few years ago - tracking set by a 'professional' garage left the wheel off centre, who couldn't understand why the new-fangled electronic steering would have that effect...:bang:

Imagine what would happen if such numpties were let loose on a Citroen DS or CX with their DIRAVI hydraulic self centring power steering. No wonder these cars were considered complex at the time.

 

[Trimdoner]

Imagine what would happen if such numpties were let loose on a Citroen DS or CX with their DIRAVI hydraulic self centring power steering. No wonder these cars were considered complex at the time.

We had a CX estate many years ago, with aforementioned power steering and all-or-nothing brake switch (couldn't really call it a pedal!), and that weird cylindrical speedo. Reverse into a parking spot on full lock then simply let go of the steering wheel for dead centre
Never had the pleasure of working on the steering, but did have a problem locating skinny brake pipes for an MOT...

 

[DaveMcT]

I had a BX 1.9 GT. It was the Mk1 with satellite switchgear but had the Mk2 (normal) speedo. The brake pedal was a pressure control valve. Sudden pedal pressure applied full brakes NOW!. With practice you could feel the brakes working. Sounds odd but I was able to feather mine close to (but not actually) locking. Later models CX and BX had ABS. I suspect it was putting at least 80% into the front brakes as the backs showed hardly any wear. That made corrosion a bigger issue that wear n tear.

BX was less bad but corrosion was the big CX killer. Hydraulic pipes seemed to be just as vulnerable is body steelwork.

 

[Goudrons]

the car uses electric self centring

The electric steering column on these are very power hungry, if the battery isn't in tip top condition it can cause the steering to pull one way or the other as there's not enough juice to run the motor properly.

The Pop our boy drives always felt a bit tuggy to the left ever since we picked it up used.
I had it in for tracking and they said it was plump on the numbers.
I didn't believe them so I had a hotrod builder friend check it out, again plump on.

I left it a while, (well it wasn't me driving it!) then later I noticed the battery looked a bit small and weedy.
Turned out someone fitted a cheap Halfords HB202 battery with only 40 or so amps.

Since swapping that out for one with 50 odd amps it's driven fine.

If you get the tracking checked and it's fine, have a look at the battery and earth leads. There is a couple of earth leads that can rot out which will cause power issues, though if it's a late TA Cross that shouldn't be an issue, yet.

 

[Trimdoner]

There is a couple of earth leads that can rot out which will cause power issues

Definitely good advice
Power assistance dropped out almost daily on our 07 MJ, a simple Halfords earth lead from battery to wing mounting bolt cured it. The main earth leads under the battery tray/chassis leg are harder to reach

 

[koalar]

Earths are a bit weird. They mostly connect to the body shell. If one isnt good it often finds another path.

we all followed a car when they turn on the indicators a different light dims


the High current Power steering motor does not use the body shell at all. Its bolted direct the battery negative clamp.


the low current electronics are earthed to the body shell inside the cars footwell. Which does return to the battery via the earth strap on the inner wing.


After checking the alternator is plumping out over 14V I would do a voltage drop test from the battery terminal to the wires bolted to the clamp while turning the steering. High resistance here is going to cause all sorts of problems.

 

[koalar]

The electric steering column on these are very power hungry, if the battery isn't in tip top condition it can cause the steering to pull one way or the other as there's not enough juice to run the motor properly.

The Pop our boy drives always felt a bit tuggy to the left ever since we picked it up used.
I had it in for tracking and they said it was plump on the numbers.
I didn't believe them so I had a hotrod builder friend check it out, again plump on.

I left it a while, (well it wasn't me driving it!) then later I noticed the battery looked a bit small and weedy.
Turned out someone fitted a cheap Halfords HB202 battery with only 40 or so amps.

Since swapping that out for one with 50 odd amps it's driven fine.

If you get the tracking checked and it's fine, have a look at the battery and earth leads. There is a couple of earth leads that can rot out which will cause power issues, though if it's a late TA Cross that shouldn't be an issue, yet.

I wonder if the battery just cleared out the controller adaptive memory ?

Interesting one although the battery was marginal in the First place. There Fiat reply posted on here awhile back that a weak battery can cause a torque sensor errors


be Good if the original battery could be put back in and see if the fault comes back.

 

[DaveMcT]

My 100HP has a 40AH battery its been there two years and doing fine. To see how it would cope, I've run the car with a 4AH LiFePo motorbike battery. That was perfectly happy starting a 1200cc twin so a 1400 four is a comparative doddle.

It started from cold and worked just fine with everything switched on. No steering errors nothing. I suspect the only reason for higher capacity Lead Acid is so the battery lasts longer. They degrade over time so 50AH gives loads to lose and have it still work properly. There's also a lot of tradition (bigger is always better) and people can get away with parking with the lights on.

 

[koalar]

My 100HP has a 40AH battery its been there two years and doing fine. To see how it would cope, I've run the car with a 4AH LiFePo motorbike battery. That was perfectly happy starting a 1200cc twin so a 1400 four is a comparative doddle.

It started from cold and worked just fine with everything switched on. No steering errors nothing. I suspect the only reason for higher capacity Lead Acid is so the battery lasts longer. They degrade over time so 50AH gives loads to lose and have it still work properly. There's also a lot of tradition (bigger is always better) and people can get away with parking with the lights on.

40ah 50ah on a battery is meaningless it just a label. They could be the same battery. There is no standard for the measurement. A battery tested at 20C then tested again at 40C will have a much higher capacity on the second test

I did guess the Halfords one was at the bottom of the scale with no proof. But they have over specify things in the past but haven't used them for maybe 20 years except tools.


CCA is a standardised test. All batteries are tested at the same temperature 0F / -18C so its a fair test



one 40ah battery doesn't necessary compare to another 40ah battery

a 400ah cca does compare to another 400ah cca battery