Technical Steering Rack replacement (Non power steering)

[Chris parry]

I am looking to replace the steering rack on my punto 176 55 1.1 LHD due to the fact the inner track rod is rattling every time I hit a bump. The part number printed on mine is 007797607B. However most of the ones I see for sale are 0077976070. Anyone know what the difference is if any and if they are compatible?
Thanks
p { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line-height: 120%; }

 

[Liquid Knight II]

I have no idea but when you buy it make sure you say...

"Nice rack"

...to the cashier. It's tradition.

 

[digger58]

https://www.mister-auto.ie/tie-rod-joint/fiat-punto-176-85-16v-1-2-86hp_v8961_g51.html

 

[rolandbrindley]

I have been through this one. There are 2 racks, the difference is the length of the pinion shaft, long or short, and I'm not sure if the long one is the early one but you must check. If you get the wrong one then you may not be able to connect up the articulated steering wheel shaft.

There is a tin clip around the clamp bolt supposed to be for safety, I could not get mine back nohow, so I left it off, it does nothing if you make sure the clamp nut and bolt are tight. Getting the rack out and back in isn't easy, I had to slacken the subframe to body bolts and lower the subframe a little, the long pinion shaft won't pass the inner wing, but mine is LHD, a RHD may not have this trouble. Mine is 1994, with non-coded ignition keys. I had to cut a short slot up the inner wing to get it through.

In my case the rack bushes weren't worn, they are plastic and just drop to bits after 20 years or so. Shameful!

 

[Chris parry]

Thanks Roland that makes sense to me. Mine is LHD as well (I am in Italy). I opted to let the seller confirm if it was compatible and will find out the hard way when its in bits if he was wrong. Thanks for the insight of the problems to come when I strip it down. The part should be arriving today and I will get on in the next week or so stripping it down

 

[rolandbrindley]

The tricky bit is alignment of the steering after you've fitted the new rack. You can't mark anything because the rack is new, all you can do is count threads and hope the new one was similar to the old, but it won't be exactly the same.

First priority is to get the wheel spokes [and therefore indicator cancel cam] horizontal with the rack exactly central, before you finalise the track rod adjustments. There's nothing to help you do this except careful measurement, I got my steering shaft a spline tooth out first time, so careful how you tighten things up until you're sure it's right.

Then set the track rods with the same number of threads showing as you counted with the old rack, then measure between the wheel rim edges [not easy!] until the front and back measurements are about equal. Nip all up lightly and road test on a quiet level road, you will soon see what needs adjusting if anything.

When you've got it near enough take it to a specialist and get it finalised.

 

[Chris parry]

Thanks again for the update on the tinkering fun it sounds like I am about to start on. The new part is here but we have family over visiting at the moment. So car is sat in the corner and on the back burner until they have gone. Looking forward to getting my hands dirty (not).

 

[Chris parry]

OK got around to replacing the steering rack yesterday. Following the instructions above from Roland, all went as planned (yes I did leave the tin clip around the clamp bolt off). With my LHD (Same as Rolands) I found because I already had the alternator off I didn't need to cut any of the inner wing I had the space to feed the rack out around there. Thanks again Roland your guide had me forewarned and prepared for the little problems that could/do come up