Hi Thomas,
That's a very good repair idea.
The new clamp bolt hole looks larger than the original split-clamp column - what are the bolt diameters of the old versus new clamps?
If there is significant misalignment between the steering column and steering box shaft, you should really use 2 universal joints -but this would require the upper column to be fully supported, alternatively a flexible coupling could be incorporated (again, upper column would need to be fully supported).
Also I've seen some column couplings that, instead of relying on serrations, have one or two flats ground onto the shaft -this could be easily replicated at home with a grinder, possibly even a file - the metal used on the shaft is usually (afaik) just mild steel.
I'm assuming on your car there is only slight misalignment between the column and steering box shaft. I've experienced this in the past and found that slackening the steering box mounting bolts and the upper steering column mountings, before tightening the lower column clamp (plus turning the steering a little in both directions to allow things to settle) usually results in the best alignment. This is always a good practice when refitting a steering box that uses a rigid column.
When a steering column with 2 universal joints is used, it's normal to find that the upper steering column is significantly out of alignment with the steering box/rack input shaft - this is to allow for collapsibilty in the event of a collision rather than cause the steering wheel to be driven rearwards towards the driver.
Whenever any modifications are made to a car's steering system, it's vital to ensure that all work is done to the highest standards e.g. as in Thomas's case above, he had an experienced/professional welder do the welding.
It's also a good idea to jack up the front wheels clear of the ground and rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock to check for any binding or other issues before roadtesting.
AL.
That's a very good repair idea.
The new clamp bolt hole looks larger than the original split-clamp column - what are the bolt diameters of the old versus new clamps?
If there is significant misalignment between the steering column and steering box shaft, you should really use 2 universal joints -but this would require the upper column to be fully supported, alternatively a flexible coupling could be incorporated (again, upper column would need to be fully supported).
Also I've seen some column couplings that, instead of relying on serrations, have one or two flats ground onto the shaft -this could be easily replicated at home with a grinder, possibly even a file - the metal used on the shaft is usually (afaik) just mild steel.
I'm assuming on your car there is only slight misalignment between the column and steering box shaft. I've experienced this in the past and found that slackening the steering box mounting bolts and the upper steering column mountings, before tightening the lower column clamp (plus turning the steering a little in both directions to allow things to settle) usually results in the best alignment. This is always a good practice when refitting a steering box that uses a rigid column.
When a steering column with 2 universal joints is used, it's normal to find that the upper steering column is significantly out of alignment with the steering box/rack input shaft - this is to allow for collapsibilty in the event of a collision rather than cause the steering wheel to be driven rearwards towards the driver.
Whenever any modifications are made to a car's steering system, it's vital to ensure that all work is done to the highest standards e.g. as in Thomas's case above, he had an experienced/professional welder do the welding.
It's also a good idea to jack up the front wheels clear of the ground and rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock to check for any binding or other issues before roadtesting.
AL.
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