Technical Starts... Runs Randomly :20 to 1 Minute Then Like Out of Fuel?

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Technical Starts... Runs Randomly :20 to 1 Minute Then Like Out of Fuel?

If you have a broken stop solenoid and need to get going , you can remove stop solenoid together with it's spring and plunger. Replace stop solenoid without spring and plunger , engine will then run but you would have to stall engine to stop it.

Yes, there's a diagnostic validity to this suggestion. I've not gotten the part yet. Will do this to prove the point of failure before replacing the unit.

Hey, someone mentioned a run out of fuel procedure, any specific tips?
 
Yes, there's a diagnostic validity to this suggestion. I've not gotten the part yet. Will do this to prove the point of failure before replacing the unit.

Hey, someone mentioned a run out of fuel procedure, any specific tips?
That was me mentioning out fuel procedure . look in handbook and see if it mentions anything about restarting following running out of fuel.



Good luck
Jack
 
Well if I ever get the blasted old solenoid out of the incredibly impossible space it is in, PLUS IT IS SEIZED! and I can not free it, plus I am by the side of the road... Then the run out of gas protocol is crank 15-sec wait 5, repeat.

But first getting the bugger out of the fuel pump housing! I have used loads of WD40. Tried to rock the threads in and out but the nut is not moving. And did I mention there's no room in there?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated. I think I am going to strip the nut though.

I may have to give this one over to a garage that can pull the pump and get it on a bench or in a vise. I'm afraid that part is not coming out while in the engine compartment.
 
Hi,
Sympathies you are very unlucky to have such a tight stop solenoid)-:
Very frustrating.

If you connect a small power bulb to battery + and ground the other lead of bulb through solenoid does the bulb light up?

I'm concerned that my suggestion of checking the stop solenoid is turning into a major headache.

Best wishes
Jack
 
Hi,
Sympathies you are very unlucky to have such a tight stop solenoid)-:
Very frustrating.

If you connect a small power bulb to battery + and ground the other lead of bulb through solenoid does the bulb light up?

I'm concerned that my suggestion of checking the stop solenoid is turning into a major headache.

Best wishes
Jack

If you mean for me to check continuity through the solenoid coil with my multimeter I will do that first thing today. But the plunger stopper may also be jammed but the coil could still be ok and doing its electromagnetic thing.

In any case I am going back in there today. I'm not a quitter. Vise grips today and a 1 meter axe handle for leverage should do the trick. WD40 has been soaking in overnight also.

Thanks for your sentiments. It serves to give me strength. I'll get this sorted come hell or high water!
 
First, about the continuity, the coil of the solenoid was a wide-open circuit! No continuity between the ground(-) of the battery and the tip of the connector. Definitely D.O.A.

YEE-HA! HE's running smoothly again. Definite thanks to everyone for the accuracy of your suggestion.

The last try I used a pair of medium-sized 8" Vise-Grips. The first three attempts slipped but the last grip was super tight and I belted it with a 2Lb sledge about five times to crack loose the threads - Voila! it moved and the threads let go. I really almost gave up, but I said to myself just one more try and three's a charm - four does the trick!.

Here's the long and short of it.
1. To get at this solenoid on my YR2000 idTD you have to remove; The Turbo Intercooler ducts (Pipes), Drop out the Radiator Fan Assembly (this gives you another precious inch of spanner swing) but be careful to remove the wiring harness all the way down to the radiator temp sensor. Mark the connections because there are polarities and two fans that need to be back in their place, in the end, Remove the Accelerator/Cold start bracket and drop the assembly down as far as the accelerator cable will allow, but remember you will also have to loosen and slide the cold start shaft out of its lever first. It also helps to remove the Air Filter intake pipe that connects to the frame above the radiator.

2. A closed-end spanner would be the tool to use here but FIAT has placed the solenoid too close to the fuel pump housing to do this. The open end of the 24mm spanner may also be too fat. Fortunately, I had borrowed a modified spanner that had its ears trimmed a bit. Nevertheless, I didn't use it to remove but to tighten the new solenoid back in place.

3. I suggest the Vice-Grips. Be careful when turning the solenoid out as the fuel lines are right there at the end of the swing and can be damaged. If yours is stuck give the Clamped Vise-Grips a wallop with a substantial hammer a few times. It worked for me!

All this and 15 hours later, to remove a 15 Euro part! But it is the gatekeeper of the whole enchilada! Without this guy, nobody goes anywhere.

Have fun with this one - it's a knuckle mangler!
 
Again Thanks go out to Jack and also the Communicator. Time was of the essence and I really appreciate you guys responding in the moment!!!

If there were a creating system here I would give five stars!
 
Pleased to learn that you are now mobile again. Sadly it is all too often that time is spent helping with a problem, then hear nothing more.
 
Again Thanks go out to Jack and also the Communicator. Time was of the essence and I really appreciate you guys responding in the moment!!!

If there were a creating system here I would give five stars!
Hi,

Great news and huge well done((-:
awesome job getting stop solenoid out as it was so tight, unnecessarily tight!!!

I second what communicator says about thanks for coming here and up dating us as to you success , often we are just left in the dark.

Best wishes

Jack
 
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