I replaced the Bilsteins with KYB on the front of the Marea and they were very good.
Tuning Springs ain't what they used to be!
- Thread starter evo-number-one
- Start date
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Tuning Springs ain't what they used to be!
Even better then. I'll go for a set very soon 
Driving home on Friday night and heard the front o/s go on one of the many speedbumps that surround my house.
Called AA man out on Saturday morning to check if there was anything else wrong and apart from the top pig tail bit everything looked fine.
Got one ordered off ebay which should hopefully come on Tuesday.
Not that I'm planning to do it myself, is it a major job or possible for a home mechanic? I've heard horror stories about spring compressors coming undone and so on but I'm curious.
Called AA man out on Saturday morning to check if there was anything else wrong and apart from the top pig tail bit everything looked fine.
Got one ordered off ebay which should hopefully come on Tuesday.
Not that I'm planning to do it myself, is it a major job or possible for a home mechanic? I've heard horror stories about spring compressors coming undone and so on but I'm curious.
mine were done on the drive no problem, springs should also be replaced in pairs
Tip No.1
"Crack" / loosen the strut top nut whilst the strut assembly is still mounted in the car. You can then remove the whole strut assembly, spring compress and almost remove the top nut with your fingers alone. IT IS DANGEROUS to remove the strut, clamp/compress the sprint and then attempt to "crack" and remove the top nut.
Unless you have a full spring bench compression frame then spring clamps can be iffy depending on the particular design AND the spring coil gradient.
Another factor that you should check is the spring length unloaded and loaded.
I got badly manacled to a Fiat Tempra spring many moons ago simply because of the difference between compressed in situ length vs the fully unloaded length. The problem here is all related to rate of change of spring coli gradient when you finally remove the top nut. Some spring clamps can not handle steep coil gradients.
Tip No:2
Firmly secure AND ALSO rope/luggage strap wrap the strut to your work surface. I normally use a Black&Decker Work Mate. You have to ensure that the whole assembly is securely restrained so if the spring clamps slip (or other event happens) this "loaded gun" can not leave the work surface and bite you.
Tip No:3
When you finally come to take the top swivel bearing/plate off the top of the strut just be aware and be prepared to a possible bearing/plate separation when all the ball/needle roller bearing may decide to run will. A nice old blanket on the ground under where you are working is a good option just in case.
"Crack" / loosen the strut top nut whilst the strut assembly is still mounted in the car. You can then remove the whole strut assembly, spring compress and almost remove the top nut with your fingers alone. IT IS DANGEROUS to remove the strut, clamp/compress the sprint and then attempt to "crack" and remove the top nut.
Unless you have a full spring bench compression frame then spring clamps can be iffy depending on the particular design AND the spring coil gradient.
Another factor that you should check is the spring length unloaded and loaded.
I got badly manacled to a Fiat Tempra spring many moons ago simply because of the difference between compressed in situ length vs the fully unloaded length. The problem here is all related to rate of change of spring coli gradient when you finally remove the top nut. Some spring clamps can not handle steep coil gradients.
Tip No:2
Firmly secure AND ALSO rope/luggage strap wrap the strut to your work surface. I normally use a Black&Decker Work Mate. You have to ensure that the whole assembly is securely restrained so if the spring clamps slip (or other event happens) this "loaded gun" can not leave the work surface and bite you.
Tip No:3
When you finally come to take the top swivel bearing/plate off the top of the strut just be aware and be prepared to a possible bearing/plate separation when all the ball/needle roller bearing may decide to run will. A nice old blanket on the ground under where you are working is a good option just in case.
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