Technical spark plugs
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Technical spark plugs
I don't think it will make much of a difference.
Galilio_Mad
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hellcat is right, the only difference is the price
i tried NGK, Bosch, Denso, aftermarket champion, Original fiat/lancia champion, and Eyequim
the only recommendation i can give is the original, stable performance and has longer life
i tried NGK, Bosch, Denso, aftermarket champion, Original fiat/lancia champion, and Eyequim
the only recommendation i can give is the original, stable performance and has longer life
I run bosch super 4s. Only as I had to buy some, and they had them in stock. I can't say they spark any better as my old plugs also had old worn out HT leads.
Standard NGK plugs, checked/replace regularly.
fourteenhundred
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Sorry to drag up an old thread but felt I should say, I've had no end of bother with NGK resistor plugs (not NGK-R, the resistor designation is in the type code E.G. BCPR6 ES/DR8 ESL)...
The resistors seem to consistently fail on me in all sorts of engines, 2/4stroke, water/oil/air cooled, bike/car/mower/outboard resulting in weak spark if any (although they worked fine at atmospheric pressure it transpired that in the engine under compression the failure manifested itself) & initially caused many hours of non start mystery & frustration with an old suzuki DR400 before I twigged what was happening...
Whether I'm just unlucky I don't know but I now always fit non-resistor if i have to use NGK (BCP6 ES/D8 ESL etc...) the only function of the resistor afaik is RF suppression anyway and since most people are on digital TV and DAB radio it makes no difference. just my 2p worth
P.S. failed resistor plugs show an open circuit between centre electrode and terminal, good ones show low resistance (IIRC about 2k) and anything with any conductivity between centre electrode and earth are just fouled & need a clean
The resistors seem to consistently fail on me in all sorts of engines, 2/4stroke, water/oil/air cooled, bike/car/mower/outboard resulting in weak spark if any (although they worked fine at atmospheric pressure it transpired that in the engine under compression the failure manifested itself) & initially caused many hours of non start mystery & frustration with an old suzuki DR400 before I twigged what was happening...
Whether I'm just unlucky I don't know but I now always fit non-resistor if i have to use NGK (BCP6 ES/D8 ESL etc...) the only function of the resistor afaik is RF suppression anyway and since most people are on digital TV and DAB radio it makes no difference. just my 2p worth
P.S. failed resistor plugs show an open circuit between centre electrode and terminal, good ones show low resistance (IIRC about 2k) and anything with any conductivity between centre electrode and earth are just fouled & need a clean
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I changed my plugs recently and the Bosch super 4s (after nearly 5 years) didn't look in too bad condition. Only bad spark was probably caused by a poor connection on the top to the HT lead.
fourteenhundred
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Just a thought but perhaps the super fours fare better due to the electrode design meaning that as one electrode gap increases beyond spec the spark naturally finds its way through the path of least resistance, thus to the next closest, then the next & so on, theoretically giving the plugs 4 times the wear life compared to single electrode plugs? (at least i bet thats what Bosch's marketing bumf has to say on the matter haha)
How do you mean a poor connection though, guessing old leads since the terminal is essentially a non-wear part? (as a side note, only car I've seen worse corona stain on than my 1.4ie was an escort 1.8zetec which also ran a very similar style of DIS wasted spark coil pack. Related? I doubt it but strange i thought)
How do you mean a poor connection though, guessing old leads since the terminal is essentially a non-wear part? (as a side note, only car I've seen worse corona stain on than my 1.4ie was an escort 1.8zetec which also ran a very similar style of DIS wasted spark coil pack. Related? I doubt it but strange i thought)
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There was some kind of corrosion on the contact on the top of the plug. It was quite discoloured.
fourteenhundred
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Oh, never seen anything like that before... that's kinda a tough place for any corrosion to happen due to the heat & dryness, perhaps either heat discolouration or maybe arc damage from a plug lead not being pushed all the way on?
I am changing the Bosch plugs on my 1995 late-model Tipo 1.4 ieS, to be sure of good clean running.
I went to a motor factors and gave them my Reg No... they sold me 4 NGK BCPR6E for just under £10. When I fitted them I noticed that the hex fitting was the modern smaller size, not the big traditional sioze all my previous plugs had.
I checked the gap at 0.8mm and fitted them, started the car fine and it seemed to rev nice and cleanly. But when I drive it 1/4 mile i noticed that it was hesitating and not running well.
When I got home I checked the NGK website -
http://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/car_...K%20PLUGS&manufact=FIAT&model=TIPO&engine=1.4
So for my car it seems I got the right plugs BCPR6E or 6ES as alternative. But the gap should be 0.7mm...
If I cross check against Bosch I see that my original WR7D+ are the equivalent to the NGK BPR6E recommended for the older Tipos. Except they only list the 6ES versions and not the 6E...
Can anyone explain why (except for the gap) I would be having problems with supposedly the right plugs?
Thanks
John
I went to a motor factors and gave them my Reg No... they sold me 4 NGK BCPR6E for just under £10. When I fitted them I noticed that the hex fitting was the modern smaller size, not the big traditional sioze all my previous plugs had.
I checked the gap at 0.8mm and fitted them, started the car fine and it seemed to rev nice and cleanly. But when I drive it 1/4 mile i noticed that it was hesitating and not running well.
When I got home I checked the NGK website -
http://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/car_...K%20PLUGS&manufact=FIAT&model=TIPO&engine=1.4
So for my car it seems I got the right plugs BCPR6E or 6ES as alternative. But the gap should be 0.7mm...
If I cross check against Bosch I see that my original WR7D+ are the equivalent to the NGK BPR6E recommended for the older Tipos. Except they only list the 6ES versions and not the 6E...
Can anyone explain why (except for the gap) I would be having problems with supposedly the right plugs?
Thanks
John
0.1mm difference wouldn't be noticeable.
I'd be looking elsewhere for the fault you describe, fuel delivery and etc.
I'd be looking elsewhere for the fault you describe, fuel delivery and etc.
Update...
Took new NGKs out, looked very white after only 1m driving from cold ... set gap to 0.7mm. Drive to my mechanic to discuss... it seemed to run OK there but not exactly peppy. He agreed they looked unhappy so I put my old Bosch back in and drive 5m to the place I bought the NGKs. Car ran fine.
Checked the specs and discussed options with the supplier, decided that I would try the "older" design i.e. BCPR6E - in fact I went for the BCPR6ES which are 20p more but have a suppressor in I believe. Put these straight in, took it for a 1/2 mile drive and once again it isn't running right. I have left the car nearby for some minor bodywork fixes.. I'll pick it up today.
In the meantime I checked with my Fiat dealer and he checked their specs... he offered me Fiat / Champion 9GSYSSR for over £6 each + VAT
These are probably equivalent to the 9FYSSR in the handbook (handbook alternative is Champion RC7YCC). I couldn't find a Champion supplier locally (maybe Halfords I suppose), someone offered me Densos but weren't in stock, but fortunately my local motor factor does Bosch so he offered be the WR7DC+ I had before so I got 4 of these for £10. I've given up on NGK now...
I will fit the Bosch later today and return the NGKs, fingers crossed.
Took new NGKs out, looked very white after only 1m driving from cold ... set gap to 0.7mm. Drive to my mechanic to discuss... it seemed to run OK there but not exactly peppy. He agreed they looked unhappy so I put my old Bosch back in and drive 5m to the place I bought the NGKs. Car ran fine.
Checked the specs and discussed options with the supplier, decided that I would try the "older" design i.e. BCPR6E - in fact I went for the BCPR6ES which are 20p more but have a suppressor in I believe. Put these straight in, took it for a 1/2 mile drive and once again it isn't running right. I have left the car nearby for some minor bodywork fixes.. I'll pick it up today.
In the meantime I checked with my Fiat dealer and he checked their specs... he offered me Fiat / Champion 9GSYSSR for over £6 each + VAT
These are probably equivalent to the 9FYSSR in the handbook (handbook alternative is Champion RC7YCC). I couldn't find a Champion supplier locally (maybe Halfords I suppose), someone offered me Densos but weren't in stock, but fortunately my local motor factor does Bosch so he offered be the WR7DC+ I had before so I got 4 of these for £10. I've given up on NGK now...I will fit the Bosch later today and return the NGKs, fingers crossed.
