Technical Some sluggishness and lock issues

[hastingsmum]

So me again, handbrake received today will attempt to fit when it stops raining maybe next week, lol.


BUT, just wondering, since I fitted a new air filter (and I did after I finished the clutch pipe in the end as I had to keep having to take the airbox out to get to the slave for bleeding again and again, so it just made sense to replace it as it was old) my Multi is ever so slightly sluggish, I would have thought if anything that it would be perkier? Any reasons it could be this way?

AND both my front locks (don't have remote locking) have become very stiff, the weather? but the boot lock is fine. I've heard you're not meant to put WD40 in locks? What else can I use please?

Thanks all!

 

[widemouthfrog]

Engine oil will do fine. Drip a bit on your key using the dipstick then use the key to lock/unlock a few times. If you're lucky enough to own a can of WD40 with the thin red tube still on it, you can poke that through the lock guard and give it a blast or two to help clean the lock mech before shoving the oily key in (Ooo err Mrs ).

As for the sluggish performance - have you tried running it with the MAF unplugged?

 

[portland_bill]

WD40 is fine in locks as it dries well and does not attract fluff. Proper teflon lock lube used to be available but it is difficult to find. A graphite spray will also work well, but like the lock lube is rare.

Sluggishness on a diesel is a bit out of my usual area of expertise, I did do a lot of theory, but last time I worked on one was 1988! A common problem on diesels is leaks in the air intake system. Follow the air from where it first enters, through tubes to the turbo, to and from the intercooler (if fitted) and then to the engine. Chances are one of the joints is leaking, most likely allowing pressure out after the turbo, so the air into the engine is reduced, so power is also reduced.

Good luck with the handbrake. Keep it in gear while doing this job! I understand we are due a dry day late Jan, just before it snows.

 

[hastingsmum]

Engine oil will do fine. Drip a bit on your key using the dipstick then use the key to lock/unlock a few times. If you're lucky enough to own a can of WD40 with the thin red tube still on it, you can poke that through the lock guard and give it a blast or two to help clean the lock mech before shoving the oily key in (Ooo err Mrs ).

No thin red tube but motor oil in plenty, lol, will do that tomorrow, thanks!

As for the sluggish performance - have you tried running it with the MAF unplugged?

No I haven't

 

[hastingsmum]

WD40 is fine in locks as it dries well and does not attract fluff. Proper teflon lock lube used to be available but it is difficult to find. A graphite spray will also work well, but like the lock lube is rare.

Sluggishness on a diesel is a bit out of my usual area of expertise, I did do a lot of theory, but last time I worked on one was 1988! A common problem on diesels is leaks in the air intake system. Follow the air from where it first enters, through tubes to the turbo, to and from the intercooler (if fitted) and then to the engine. Chances are one of the joints is leaking, most likely allowing pressure out after the turbo, so the air into the engine is reduced, so power is also reduced.

Thank you! follow the air, will do

Good luck with the handbrake. Keep it in gear while doing this job! I understand we are due a dry day late Jan, just before it snows.

hahaha

 

[hastingsmum]

Disconnected the MAF sensor and my Multi is eager to play again, yay and thanks!

Will look into it further in the new year but for now great to not have to worry about sounding like an old lorry and almost stalling in 2nd :bang:

 

[widemouthfrog]

In removing the airbox a few times it's very possible that some crap has got stuck on the MAF sensor. If you've got some meths (or better still some isopropyl alcohol - IPA) it's easy enough to clean it. Be careful though - the element inside is extremely fragile; best to remove the sensor part containing the element and gently wash it with a stream of the spirit. Don't touch the element, even with a brush. Before refitting, give it good time to dry out afterwards as well.

 

[nuddmann]

Disconnected the MAF sensor and my Multi is eager to play again, yay and thanks!

Will look into it further in the new year but for now great to not have to worry about sounding like an old lorry and almost stalling in 2nd :bang:

If you need to replace your maf, which I eventually did, try maf-shop.com


They're a german company specialising in mafs, the one I received was a like for like replacement for the original bosch one fitted (I've had the car from new). I paid just under 81 quid for it including postage, it was WAY cheaper than getting it here. I seem to remember I had to search using the OEM part number

 

[hastingsmum]

I will quickly update you all on this issue.

After I disconnected the MAF sensor the other day my Multi had it's power and willingness back

But since then it's become sluggish again but in a different way. It gives me about the same but makes more noise doing it... and it runs rough from cold and has stalled in low gears 3 times in 2 days now.

I know I read somewhere on here that it might be EGR valve and there was a way to check but I can't find it :doh:

 

[widemouthfrog]

That could be a side effect of disconnecting the MAF. It does serve a purpose, even though that 'purpose' may seem to be to make your car run like a dog right now ! Cold weather, especially cold starts in cold weather, are when a fully functional MAF will do its' thing.

You could try blanking the EGR to see if that makes any difference; it may also make things worse! Use the existing gasket as a template for a temporary one cut from a tin can. Don't leave it in for long though, as some here have had problems with using thin metal ones.

Alternatively, buy a ready made one off ebay. Those are thicker and don't seem to have long term-use problems

 

[hastingsmum]

So it seems clean the MAF sensor first would be my best bet

 

[slobo]

It takes about 30 mins to blank the EGR, 2 allen bolts, that's all.

 

[widemouthfrog]

So it seems clean the MAF sensor first would be my best bet

Yep. Cheap, easy to do - just take care not to touch the sensor element with anything solid, including your finger. If you haven't got the special torx driver to get the element housing out of the cylinder body, take the pipework off both ends of the cylindrical MAF body and unplug the electrical connection. Clean as much dust and dirt as you can from the outside of the MAF, then put it in something like a big sandwich bag (even a carrier bag if you can find one without holes in it) pour some meths or IPA into the bag, knot the bag shut and then give it a damn good shake for a minute or so - a kind of makeshift washing machine.

It's even better if you cap one end of the MAF body with part of the bag and an elastic band, pour some meths/IPA inside (you don't need much - don't be tempted to fill it up!), then pull another part of the bag over the other end of the MAF and hold that in place with another elastic band, so it ends up looking a bit like a bongo drum. Doing it this way means that there's no risk of washing any dirt on the outside of the MAF onto the sensor element inside.

Give it a half hour or so to dry out afterwards, then refit.

Does it rev cleanly past 3000rpm under load?

 

[hastingsmum]

Does it rev cleanly past 3000rpm under load?

Yes it does.... today it behaved just perfect, will try to get time to clean the MAF sensor tomorrow though

 

[hastingsmum]

So I cleaned the MAF sensor and connected it all back together, it's ever so slightly sluggish now so guess I will need a new one eventually

Oh and the locks work loads better now thanks all for your help and ideas