General Sheered bolts

Currently reading:
General Sheered bolts

rab10000

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Messages
166
Points
60
does anyone know an easy way to remove the part of the bolt thats left in the thread when the bolt head has sheared off??

is drilling it the only way???
 
I mess with minis quite a lot and this has ocurred a couple of times, two solutions i have used are:-

1) If you can get the part off and expose some of the thread flatten two sides with a hacksaw or an angle grinder depending on space and put a spanner on that

2) If you have a pig where no shaft showing and it is a resonable beefy bolt drill three horizontal holes in the bold and put a flat head screw driver in it

Use loads of wd40 as you will have limited opportunity before you balls the bodge up. it is a nervous time as I would not fancy having to drill the bolt out
 
there about 3/4 inch or so of the thread sticking out, i can get a decent enough grip with vice grips but the grips just spin round the threads, maybe cive it a good soaking in wd40 overnight see if that helps,

not got access to welding equpiment etc so stuck with normal household tools if u know what i mean
 
If the threads are still good and not rounded off can you put two nuts on (in a lock nut type arrangement) and use a ring spanner on the inner one?

Mark
 
ive not got access to a blow torch and threads are no more due to using the vice grips on them
 
What bolt are we talking about on the car? gives us a better idea what to offer as help.

Usually though heat is your freind when this happens, you can buy some stud extractors that require you drill down into the bolt then screw the extractor (left handed threar) into it until it bites and removes said bolt.
Ill bet one million dollars of Hellcats money its in a real tight place where none of the above can help :( dont give up yet though let us spread the pain, at least you havent just put 2 bottles of energy drinks into your tank thinking it was octane booster as ive recently read about :D:D:D.
 
the bolts in question are 2 for the rear anti roll bar, good news is i have the rear arm that theyre attached to in my back garden just now trying my best, however i dont have any wd40 or the likes left till tomorro so havent even soaked it with that yet.

def dont have access to a blow torch etc only common diy tools.

dont really have time to order tools from ebay and obviously cant travel to town to buy as car is now off the road and wife needs it tomorro for work


what would be my best bet here??

are they cheap blow torches from focus etc any good
 
This may sound really naff but get it on the stove and get some heat into it, do you mean the rear bolts of the front anti roll bar or as you say the rear one?
If you only had access to a welder you could tack a new head onto it.
Get some coca cola on it or vinegar but coke is quicker as a de rusting liquid.
If you have rounded all the thread id be tempted get a small hammer and tap from all directions for a while but not hard it could snap flush.
Failing that id prob snap it flush on purpose and drill it out using a slightly thinner bit than the thread but it may well take a while.
 
its the rear anti roll bar that attaches onto the rear swinging arm, i will give it a try with some cola if not i shall go buy some wd 40 tomorro, i take it it shouldnt take too much effort to unscrew once the wd40 done its magic, bloody frustrating really as i thought i would have finished the job tonight.

when i use my vice grips on the 2 threads the grips just turn on the thread itself.

i dont even know anyone with a welder or blow torch and i have an electric oven not a gas one
 
how easy are the threads to drill?? think this may be my best option, tried to cut both sides of my thread on 1 of the bolts and all that happened was the bit that was left in the middle snapped off when i tried to turn it, still leaves the thicker bolt to undo tho
 
I have had to drill a few bolts out in my time but all on the smallish size M8 or less - not sure how big this one will be. The secret is to get a good start. So try and cut the 'stump' off flat and as flush as possible to the part it screws into. Then use a centre punch, masonry nail or such like to put a dent in the centre. Then use HSS drills starting off from a small size (1mm) to drill through the bolt and slowly work up the sizes until you are almost at the diameter of the hole (can use light oil to lubricate drill). Then use a small chisel, screwdriver etc and hammer to bend the edge of the 'hollow cylinder' that is left of the bolt into the centre. Normally at this point with a bit of 'jiggery pokery' with hammers, screwdrivers etc you can get the remains of the bolt out and leave the threads intact in the hole.

Worked several times for me (never got stud extractors to work!).

Good luck.

Mark
 
What bolt are we talking about on the car? gives us a better idea what to offer as help.

Usually though heat is your freind when this happens, you can buy some stud extractors that require you drill down into the bolt then screw the extractor (left handed threar) into it until it bites and removes said bolt.
Ill bet one million dollars of Hellcats money its in a real tight place where none of the above can help :( dont give up yet though let us spread the pain, at least you havent just put 2 bottles of energy drinks into your tank thinking it was octane booster as ive recently read about :D:D:D.
Using Lucozade as a biofuel is pushing it a little bit...
 
Using Lucozade as a biofuel is pushing it a little bit...
hi there you could use an extractor like this one from sealey tools AK718 i have one and it is great as you can work the stud/bolt back and forth to free off plenty of release oil (wd40 type).
 
Back
Top