General Safe psi on uno turbo

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General Safe psi on uno turbo

Muzzie,

The fuel injection in the Uno Turbo Mk1 operates in what is called 'open loop' mode. This means there is no feedback from the oxygen sensor (there isn't one!) so the ECU does not 'know' when to enrich/lean out the fuelling. Instead, it operates off 'maps' that correspond the engine load/speed with a predetermined injector duration (opening time) for a known constant fuel pressure.

Even on newer systems, the ECU rarely relies on the oxygen sensor all the time - usually only during light throttle/cruise conditions.

What I'm saying is that you shouldn't fit bigger injectors without fitting something to re-map the ECU (or of course, fitting an aftermarket ECU e.g. Megasquirt). Jaycar (where I used to work) sells a kit called The Fuel Adjuster. It intercepts the signal from the airflow meter, allowing you to dial the voltage up or down in fine increments for different engine load 'setpoints'. This allows you to basically turn down your bigger injectors over most of the engine load range, yet still have them there for the high loads.

The kit is not cheap (for a kit) at about $100, plus another $60 for the LCD hand controller used to program it (also useful for other kits like the electronic boost controller). But in aftermarket engine management terms, that's cheap! (I'm sure Steve will agree; he knows a lot more than I do about these things...)

You can also now appreciate the two other options available to you - have a fifth injector, triggered when necessary at high engine loads, usually by a small circuit.

Or, the other way to increase fuelling while keeping everything else standard. Increase the fuel pressure! There is probably a clever way to do this related to the increased boost pressure. I'm not sure about this one, but it would seem to me to be the cheapest option, provided you could ensure that fuel pressure was standard for all but high loads.








oh no, my Enter key has just stuck down, so who knows what happens next. Damn, this Microsoft Natural Keyboard is only 12 years old this year!













Cheers,
-Alex
 
alexGS said:
Jaycar (where I used to work) sells a kit called The Fuel Adjuster. It intercepts the signal from the airflow meter, allowing you to dial the voltage up or down in fine increments for different engine load 'setpoints'.

hmm something like apexi afc or hks gcc ??

older apexi afc or hks gcc cost less then 100Ł, but i dont know it will work with le2 jetronic...
 
Yes, just like an Apexi AFC.

You can achieve a decent idle and cruise mixture altering the AFM spring with larger injectors (AFC will be much better). But you'll be stuck with a set ammount of fuel on full power even with an AFC of some kind. You need to size the injectors well to suit the power level you are going to achieve.

Of course the standard turbo is not ideal if your looking for more than 1 bar boost either. even 1 bar is a bit of a stretch for it. power will fall rapidly after 5000rpm
 
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SteveNZ said:
Yes, just like an Apexi AFC.

You can achieve a decent idle and cruise mixture altering the AFM spring with larger injectors (AFC will be much better). But you'll be stuck with a set ammount of fuel on full power even with an AFC of some kind. You need to size the injectors well to suit the power level you are going to achieve.

Of course the standard turbo is not ideal if your looking for more than 1 bar boost either. even 1 bar is a bit of a stretch for it. power will fall rapidly after 5000rpm

So how much more will it give?

If it'll only just puff out 1 bar then whats stopping people from just closing off the wastegate actuator pipe and driving around on unlimited boost? Or am I just missing something?
 
OK, I tried an experiment. Closed off the actuator line to the wastegate and took it for a drive.

It's gets up to about .7-.8 bar (just on the red on guage) and then it splutters and bucks wildly. Regardless of revs.

Possibly fuel starvation? Or am I not doing something right? It was fine soon as I unblocked the wastegate line though.
 
You need to disconnect the overboost switch. Its on the end of the inlet manifold. This is the only safety feature the engine has so be carefull.
 
Muzzie said:
So how much more will it give?

If it'll only just puff out 1 bar then whats stopping people from just closing off the wastegate actuator pipe and driving around on unlimited boost? Or am I just missing something?

It will give heaps more boost if you do that. However it will be running very inefficient. When you run a turbo inefficiently the returns demish. at 20psi for example you may only get a little bit more power and you will shorten the life of the turbo dramatically. If you run it excessivly high, like 25psi you may get less power than at 20psi and an even shorter life.

If you disconnect the actuator line, id say it would shoot up to around 25psi somewhere and then drop right back at high RPM. It will run lean doing this and the engine may suffer.
 
Ok, took off the overboost switch and blocked off the actuator line. Dad took it for a drive and and it got just into the red on the guage (about 3/4 of the gauge) and then was a POOF! and then it started running really badly and pouring out black smoke. Checked the plugs and they were coated in black so suggests running MUCH MUCH MUCH too rich, as does the deposits left on the exhaust. Any reason why?

Can't get it to idle at all now, can get it to run (badly) if you clutch start down a long hill. Dads feeling very guiltly and I'm feeling greatly disheartened.

Hopefully it's a simple fix - but what is it?

Some please help
 
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