Rounded Bolts

[arseofbox]

'Lo.

Im currently removing the head from the 899cc HOS (Heap 'O S***) as the car's being broken up and slowly sold.

The rocker cover (not cam cover - tis an OHV!!) is held on by allen / hex key drive bolts (3mm I think), all apart from one have come out fine. This final one appears to be have tightened by an angry gorilla (or maybe I was a bit peeved ), and due to this, its rounded the drive whilst trying to undo it.

I cant do the time honoured tradition of smashing an undersize socket on as its an allen drive and the next size up is too big to fit (and theres no way Im hitting a tool-steel instrument with the 3lb'er - cos it'll just snap.)

Any recommendations? Id prefer not taking a drill to it. Its the LHS rear (so its not very accessible) if that helps.

 

[Andy_sx]

i know uve said its not very accessable, but do you have any way of getting to the head with a hacksaw blade???

 

[gregit]

Managed to round out the hex part of the sump plug on my derv.

Mole grips saved the day for me....

 

[DanGil]

If your handy with a welder weld a bolt to it.

 

[Chas Uno]

If you can get a cold chisel onto it, you could try chiselling a 'slot' into the allen head. Then you might be able to get a flat bladed screwdriver in there.

Before you do that, have you got any torx bits? Sometimes they fit where an allen bit will slip.

Also, try and use an impact driver. Sometimes a stubborn bolt just needs a good jolting to free it.

I you do manage to get the bolt out, REPLACE IT! What I try and do now is to replace all dodgy/ rusty bolts with new items, preferably stainless steel if they're not load bearing.

And I also give the threads a liberal coating of copper grease when I put the bolts back. I know that can mess up some torque settings, but at least it stops them from seizing in the holes...

 

[Dutchie]

I you do manage to get the bolt out, REPLACE IT! What I try and do now is to replace all dodgy/ rusty bolts with new items, preferably stainless steel if they're not load bearing.

And I also give the threads a liberal coating of copper grease when I put the bolts back. I know that can mess up some torque settings, but at least it stops them from seizing in the holes...

Replacing all bolst for stainles steel ones could give you more problem than you think.
Stainles steel and aluminium give a chemical reaction, making the bolt siez (damn my spelling's crap).
So when you do replace normal steel bolts, and nuts with stainles steel ones, never forget to us some sort of anti siezing grease..!!

and for the question @ hand here, I would try the mole grip, and if that fails , I would weld another bolt ontop to it, or something else that would just give grip.

 

[arc]

one of them rounded nut removers - with a reverse thread cut into them?

 

[arseofbox]

one of them rounded nut removers - with a reverse thread cut into them?

Theres an Idea

I cant get mole grips, a hacksaw or a welder in there easily. Ive tried the cut a slot in method but to no avail.

I might try interference fitting (read ****ting in) a Torx driver...

As for stopping it once its removed, I dont care, its coming off and staying off!! Aslong as the cover is undamaged and the thread form in the head is good, I dont mind!

 

[HP]

Dremel a slot in the top and use a big screwdriver bit in a socket set?

Worked for me on a Cavalier water pump many moons ago, when you were still weeing nappies probably!

 

[Biz]

Drill into the bolt and use stud extractors to ge it out, easy peasy

 

[custard]

Dremel a slot in the top and use a big screwdriver bit in a socket set?

Worked for me on a Cavalier water pump many moons ago, when you were still weeing nappies probably!

last year?

 

[arseofbox]

Sorted.

Tried Torx bit. It slipped and that was the largest thing I had.

I got a big cold chisel on it and battered all hell out of it, and then used an impact driver with a flat blade to remove it using the BFH.