Technical Restoring rusty components.

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Technical Restoring rusty components.

Some nice results there.

I found vinegar works really well as a rust removal bath. I bought 5 litres from Morrisons ages ago. When I'm done I pour it back in to the container.
Works just as well as the branded products I've tried and smells delicious. :yum:
 
Just wondering if Deox C removes the rust, why use Hydrate 80 after that if its a converter?

Is it a belt and braces thing or does it have some other effect?
 
Vern.
Many thanks for the info on rust removal and Bilt Hamber products, it looks like good stuff.

Have you tried making a rust removal bath yourself.?
Plastic barrel filled with water and soda crystals
Battery with + and - wires each attached to a steel plate which you hang from a spar across the barrel so the bars are in the water.
Put parts in so they don't touch the plates and connect battery.
It then bubbles away nicely and the rust gets attracted to the metal plates and leave your part rust free.
Dave

I bought myself all the bits to do some anodising a few years back. The sulphuric acid (which I thought would be the hardest bit to find) I got from Ebay 90% stuff too :eek:, along with the rest of the stuff. I've never had time yet to put it all together to do the canards for the front of the GTO. One day, when my car infested drive way is down to a respectable level, ONE DAY :rolleyes:
 
If you want to submerge large bits like wheel rims then google 'Milk Stone Remover'.

It is the acid (phosphoric) that is the active ingredient in most rust converters and cost £20 a gallon which you then dilute. A gallon will last most people a lifetime.

Another option is electrolisis which is also cheap and the results are just fantastic.

I use both methods. If anyone is interested I can post some examples
 
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If you want to submerge large bits like wheel rims then google 'Milk Stone Remover'.

It is the acid (phosphoric) that is the active ingredient in most rust converters and cost £20 a gallon which you then dilute. A gallon will last most people a lifetime.

Another option is electrolisis which is also cheap and the results are just fantastic.

I use both methods. If anyone is interested I can post some examples

Yes please :)
 
I had a play at removing rust by electrolisis.
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A plastic bucket, a 12v battery charger, sode washing soda and a sacrificial annode (lump of scrap iron) and we're in business.
The pic show my 1st effort on 2 CA dash's after they had been bubbling for about 2 hours.
The positive lead goes to the lump of old iron and the negative to what you want to de-rust.
Fill your non conductive container with water and add a tablespoon of soda per gallon.Mix well.
connect up your leads, don't let the diode directly touch your work piece, plug in, and Bob's yer Auntie (as they say in the gender re-asignment trade)
After a mere 24 hours or more, the rust will magically detach itself from the job and travel in a straight line to you sacrificial doobrie and stick to that.
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After a day or so (remembering not to switch off the power to the shed when you turn the lights out) this is what it all looks like (after I've tripped over the blasted thing a couple of times) a messy rusty soup.
Remove you item, wash it in mums sink. I found this a very slow yet satifying method of removing corrosion with minimal damage to the item. Very successful in all.
An amusing trade off is that if you then tip the water onto your lawn, worms will appear like small rockets bursting out of the ground. I don't know if there is some residual electricity, or the soda or what, but boy does it get the to appear. I mention this only so that we can all win that annual worm charming competition where people normally sing, chant and dance to attract the slithery little blighters. (I kid you not; this is England after all)
..
 
I have also been experimenting with 'Milk Stone Remover'.
This stuff is phosphoric acid by another name and used in the dairy industry for cleaning pipework.
The good news is that phos' acid appears in many rust converter products but if you buy it as Milk Stone Remover in only costs £10 per gallon and you can dilute it...!
I am still experimenting but so far I am very impressed.
THIS ISN'T FOR THE FAINTHEARTED WHO MIGHT PANIC WHEN THE SEE THEIR PRESCIOUS METAL FIZZING.!!!
The theory is that phos' acid eats the rust and then goes to sleep, unlike the British weather that causes rust and then gets peckish.
I have been using 60% water with 40% Milk Stone Remover. If you can soaqk your parts for 24 hours then it is just amazing.... I suppose you want pitures.....
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This is a Bedford CA wing that has been standing out for all of time. It was only rust... In fact you might notice that I painted the word 'Rust' on it with the solution.
Not on;y did it remove the rust (24 hr soak) but in one section it revealed the original red paint.
Continued use of the same batch of solution did not diminish the results but let to a heavy white chalky deposit being left on all items. The chemists amoung youg might tell me what this is. It either washes off with fresh solution or wire brushes away.
 
I have also been experimenting with 'Milk Stone Remover'.

That sounds great, I've been using orange squash for smaller components up to rocker cover size max but it's not the cheapest option. Very quick though. I would say all rust is removed after 2-3 days even with heavily pitted steel... makes you wonder about actually drinking it (but obviously you add some water traditionally :p)
 
If your on a low budget and have a lot of rusty components to sort have look on you tube at Molasses rust removal there's a Aussie guy on there shows how to use it for best results it's amazing the results from a food product and your only limit to panel size is the tank being big enough
Best bit is no harmfully chemicals
 
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I put a couple of front suspension legs in to 'pickle' in the electrolysis tub tonight.
I should have remembered a before pic but here are a couple of 'during'

They have only been in for about two hours but you can already see that the rust is being drawn to the sacrificial annode (red wire)

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There is a Bedford CA handbrake in there as well if you wondered what it was.

I shall leave this fizzing away for at least 24 hours. It doesn't make any difference if you use more amps, or add more soda or ANYTHING.

The only difference you might find is water volume and the size of the annode.
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As an example; this is a Bedford dash that had sat in water for years. After 24 hrs here it is. You might notice that it is back to bare metal where the rust was in a direct line to the annode.

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