Technical Replacing the alternator (jtd)

[Muppet1]

Not as the job went on but will take photos sunday of the bits concerned if you want. I cant edit my post so will have to upload the pics and a mod sort it out if thats ok.

 

[Davren]

To make a guide you would need to take the pictures as you're doing the job and show which parts are being removed. The pictures could then be integrated into the text.

 

[Muppet1]

Yes well i thought that but i was thinking at least if i took pictures of the various items that need removing at least people have a referance point.

Upto you??

 

[Muppet1]

Think i may have a slight problem, As i had both plastic inner arches off i decided to pressure wash all under the arches and low and behold i now have a problem.

Think some damp got into the main fuse box by the battery and when the ign is on i could here fizzing and was getting the car security coming up on the dash.
Anyways thought i would take the fuse box off and take all the relays and fuses out any spray with wd40.
Anyway one of the little fuses was rusted in and has snapped off level with the plastic so have got to bin the the fuse box but do have one coming with the new boot carpet and bit i have bought from ebay.

Anyway would damp in this fuse box have given me car security warning and not starting.

It wont be a problem Damp/wet getting in now as i managed to buy a battery box and lid, Air filter box, passinger side wheel arch liner and drivers side mirror and drivers side suspension strut, shock and spring for £130. I thought i did well for that.

 

[Davren]

Anyway would damp in this fuse box have given me car security warning and not starting.

Yes... water in the engine fuse box can cause all sorts of electrical problems and warning messages. I had it on mine after taking the car through a car wash with the battery cover off. I took the two halves of the grey plastic box apart to dry mine out.

 

[noisyhouseennis]

I had similar issues replacing the alternator on a Multipla 1.9jtd

it is really worth getting an identical denso alternator. Mine was Fiat part: 46763532 I think. The replacement was bigger and rounder and had casing bolts sticking out further. It was like trying to fit a backetball through a gap when all you could fit was a rugby ball.

The original Denso Magnetti Marelli 105amp alternator is quite slim and was able to be removed downward through gap between subframe and driveshaft. For multipla needed to remove the dipstick and drive belt and electrics and exhaust section and it was free.
I got a new replacement alternator which wouldn't fit through same gap however so I had to undo the rear engine mount (don't remove the single bolt, instead undo both 13mm bolts to take out the bracket and the rubber mount or you will struggle to get it back together) and a front left engine mount. I used a trolley jack and a block of wood under gearbox for support. I also had removed the radiator fan and air intake and filter box to make room.
The engine could be levered forward which moved the drive shaft with it, and the replacement alternator went up through the gap.
Very awkward getting at the mounting bolts and nuts by the way. Hope this helps

 

[jakobG]

Well got the car up and running today and its nice to say that i did it.

But a word of warning to anybody who needs to do it,

Allow at least 8-10 hours if you are doing it from the floor, I had the car on axle stands but could have done with more hight but beggars cant be choosy,

First off you need to take off drivers side wheel and engine cover.
Then disconnect the battery,
If your alternator belt is still on the car remove belt.
Oh and your plastic under tray if you have one and also the drivers side piece that the under tray bolts too, I didn't as i haven't got any.
Next thing to do is you will need to remove the drivers side drive shaft, Mine was quite easy as i had to remove the suspension strut due to having to replace the spring so i split the drive shaft where it go's into the cup, Basically just pulls out.
Next you will need to undo the rear bolt on the engine mounting bracket, This is the one that bolts around the driveshalf, Then there are 3 bolts on the C part of this bracket.
You may have too slacken the rearmost bolt where it goes in the floor of the sub frame to give you wiggle room.

Once you have removed this C section bracket you can the access the 3 allanhead bolts that hold the inner driveshalf into place. These are bloody horrid to get at and a 1/4 " little socket set is ideal though.

Once you have removed the 3 bolts from the drive shaft you can then with a lump of wood and a large hammer knock the driveshalf out of the gear box. I did resort to using a wide masonry chisel not ideal and you use on at your own risk but it soon moved the driveshalf.

Then remove the 2 wires from the alternator, 12MM and 8MM socket again this is where the 1/4 inch socket set comes in handy.

By the time you have done this, make yourself a cup of tea and a fag if you must.

If its a Jtd then split the exhaust pipe just after the flexi bit, U will need to trust me!!!

Then from the top remove the tiny piece of pipe between header tank and engine, Next undo the earth wire under the ecu and unplug the two plugs that go into ecu.

Basically now wrap all that behind the engine so you can now see and get to the top bolt of the alternator, You can get to the nut from above thats hidden behind so get a spanner on it and the one that pokes out just above the chassis rail i ended up using a socket and two 1/2 inch extension bars to shift it.

Once you have removed the top one remove the bottom one again from under the car get the spanner on the nut and undo the bolt from the wheel arch end.

Once you have undone the bolt you wont get the bugger out until you drop the engine. Do that by placing a jack under the sump with a piece of wood, Take the weight of the engine and undo the 3 bolts until the end of the threads.
Drop engine slowly and remove bottom alternator bolt. That should then allow you to knock the alternator from the engine, Beware it will be tight then wiggle said alternator along the back of engine and down in between engine and bulkhead and push flexi bit to one side as well.

Careful because you will trap a finger whilst doing this. i do have the cuts to prove it.

Fitting is the exact reversal of the above, But you will know that as you have just done it.

I will take some pictures of must of the above point to show where and what i mean but didn't take any of the job in progress I'm afraid.

Do you know if this is possible with the fiat stilo abarth 2.4 20v or do you think it is a engine out job? I am considering buying one with a bad alternator that needs replacing.

 

[Ralf S.]

Well shifted the driveshaft a bit with a block of wood and large hammer so im hoping it will pop out tomorrow.

Im guessing no body has attempted this then with a stilo, I can understand why too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I replaced mine. You're right that it is an interesting job...

I remember there was one nut that was spectacularly difficult to undo - the back of the engine mount/around the driveshaft as I recall. You can get a spanner onto it but there's no room to turn it, whereas a socket can't fit, because it's behind some other component... something like that.

I was going to fit new bearings to my alternator (the pulley basically went limp) but after I saw what would be required, I fitted a brand new Denso alternator. I can't remember how much it cost .. about £100~120 ... but I would have remembered if I'd just repaired it and then something else broke a little later...

Ralf S.

 

[Muppet1]

Do you know if this is possible with the fiat stilo abarth 2.4 20v or do you think it is a engine out job? I am considering buying one with a bad alternator that needs replacing.

I don't honestly know, to be honest.