Technical Replacing oil pan gasket

[F30Msport]

Got some new stuff in from Mr Fiat today, and starting with replacing the pil pan gasket. The gasket I got looks like a fiber/cork of some kind. Should I just clean the pan edges good and slap it on, or use some liquid gasket as well. Also, is some kind of locktite recommended for the bolts? The old washer had some red sealer or something on it.

Also, while I have the 500 up on stands, I want to clean the centrifugal oil cleaner- I did get a new gasket for that too. Any tips?


Thanks

 

[the hobbler]

Got some new stuff in from Mr Fiat today, and starting with replacing the pil pan gasket. The gasket I got looks like a fiber/cork of some kind. Should I just clean the pan edges good and slap it on, or use some liquid gasket as well. Also, is some kind of locktite recommended for the bolts? The old washer had some red sealer or something on it.

Also, while I have the 500 up on stands, I want to clean the centrifugal oil cleaner- I did get a new gasket for that too. Any tips?


Thanks

Easy question first---the centrifugal oil-filter uses a large 'O' ring seal---that must be replaced. Although the filter cover will only go back in one position (the bolt holes are not evenly spaced), if you are doing the job with the rear cross-member still in place, mark both the filter cover AND the pulley for ease of subsequant refitment.
As for the sump, I am assuming that you have the standard 'steel' version. If you have, carefully clean both the sump and the crankcase flange. I always reccomend the use of the 'rubberoid' gasket as it is more resistant to sump-screw tension---if you tighten the screws too much with the cork gasket, the gasket ends up just being squeezed out! The steel sumps, over the years of use, tend to be slightly distorted so, yes, I would suggest that you put a thin coat of silicon 'goo' on both sides. I have never used any form of 'thread-lock' on the sump fitment screws--never had a problem. It would be wise to tighten all the screws up initially, leave them for 24hrs and then go round them again to just 'nip them up'

 

[Toshi 975]

If you have a steel sump it is worth checking the flange gasket face for local distortion around the fixing holes where screws have been over tightened in the past or the original load spreading washers have not been used. Most times with old steel sumps I end up tapping the flange flat around the holes with a punch or small hammer.

 

[F30Msport]

Thanks. I got everything cleaned yesterday, including the filter (what a pain in the ass without taking the cross member off.

The oil pan is...a bit dented, but the flange seems ok. I am highly temped to paint it while it's off.

 

[Toshi 975]

I have seen a hell of a lot worse ones than that In the past. Those double skinned channels on the base are to aid cooling and it is worth rodding them out as they can get clogged up. I assume that you have the little connector piece that goes between sump and the fan housing that completes the ducting?

 

[F30Msport]

I do have the fan housing. Got it all back on and going to wait an hour before I fill it with oil. The liquid gasket says 1 hour to skin and 12 to cure.

 

[Toshi 975]

Just to check I was referring to the small piece that connects the fan housing to the sump , held in place by two of the sump fixing screws. It is sometimes missing.

 

[F30Msport]

Yep. Thanks. Should I wait longer to fill the oil and start it? Or is a couple hours enough?

Just to check I was referring to the small piece that connects the fan housing to the sump , held in place by two of the sump fixing screws. It is sometimes missing.

 

[The Whitakers]

I do have the fan housing. Got it all back on and going to wait an hour before I fill it with oil. The liquid gasket says 1 hour to skin and 12 to cure.

I was told by a mechanic once and indeed have fallen to the cause that putting a gasket sealant as well as a gasket on a sump can actually cause the gasket to blow out unless you fully allow it to cure before filling and running an engine. The wet sealant acts as a lubricant. I once did this on a transit and it was carnage, never done it since.

 

[F30Msport]

Yeah, I decided to wait at least 12 hours, at which point it will be 9pm, so 24 hours it is...or more. No need to rush.

 

[F30Msport]

Oil filled and ran the car for about 15 minutes before a 10 minutee drive. No leaks so far... seems to have done the trick. Thanks for all the advice.