General Remote flipkey- which bit is the code transmitter?

[lewey]

Attached is a picture of the board from a Panda remote flipkey. Would like to put the code transmitting part into another standard key as I can get a key cut for it very easily and the the flip keys are a pain. It is for one of my modified vehicle projects. This board when put close to the immobiliser aerial starts the car as it is and without the button battery.

So, which part of this is the bit I need? Presume the long oblong black box that goes nearest the key. Can I just chop it off the board? It seems to be connected electrically at just two places with two solder joints either end just to locate it on the board. I don't see how it can rely on any other components to start the car if there is no power in the circuit and it still works.

No guessing please! This is the only "key" I have.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Is this for the immobiliser Lewey?

If so its in the key casing. Looks like a small glass capsule.

 

[lewey]

Is this for the immobiliser Lewey?

If so its in the key casing. Looks like a small glass capsule.

Familiar with the "small glass capsules", but this is not the case with the remote keys like this one. As I said, this board allows car to start when near the immobiliser aerial. Only interested in immobiliser properties as you say.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Interesting. I thought all keys had the capsules. That board out of a 'flip' key?

 

[lewey]

Interesting. I thought all keys had the capsules. That board out of a 'flip' key?

Yes!

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Yes!

Just noticed thread title again :doh:

 

[lewey]

Just noticed thread title again :doh:

That and the first sentence of the post. No-one can touch you for the speed-reading award this year.

 

[306maxi]

Strange, I always thought the transponders were seperate.

The one in my 406 was seperate

 

[lewey]

Strange, I always thought the transponders were seperate.

The one in my 406 was seperate

My key and engine are from a normal 2005 Dynamic, so it must be very common. I assure you that something on this board is the code sender as the rest of the key is in the bin and my engine only starts when this is near the aerial!

 

[306maxi]

My key and engine are from a normal 2005 Dynamic, so it must be very common. I assure you that something on this board is the code sender as the rest of the key is in the bin and my engine only starts when this is near the aerial!

Well the chip in my 406 key wasn't attached to the board in any way at all.

 

[lewey]

I have identified that the chip I highlighted in my first post is the transponder using foil to shield chips and a process of elimination.

It occurred to me that the transponder is only able to transmit without power because it receives a small amount of power from the radio waves emitted from the immobiliser aerial. Therefore I suppose it might not be impossible that it uses other components on the board, but still unlikely in my opinion.

The second question remains therefore: can I chop it off the board and it will still work like the "little glass tubes" do in other keys? Opinion welcomed before I ultimately have to take the plunge in the name of science.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

99% sure that there should be a capsule.

Same keys as Stilos and most the Fiat range.

https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/235531-key-fob.html?p=2480332

 

[lewey]

99% sure that there should be a capsule.

Same keys as Stilos and most the Fiat range.

https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/235531-key-fob.html?p=2480332

:bang: I've already determined this is not true. You're not seriously suggesting the key in the bin in my house is starting the car and only when I happen to have the chip on the board near the aerial? Even if I pull the board an inch away from the aerial it doesn't start.

I'm obviously the only person in the world with this type of key.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

The key its out of, how did is it opened (as if changing battery, not to remove the inners). Was it the screw in the side (under blade when key in closed possition) or did the back with the Fiat badge on have a 2 piece set-up with a battery cover door?

As there are 2 types of flick key, so not sure if this may be a contributing factor?

 

[lewey]

Fetched out of bin, the separated pieces of the key. There is nothing missing other than the blade and the board in my first post. Note no place to put conventional transponder.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Yeah. Thats the later key type.

 

[lewey]

Right, I'm in trouble. I decided against taking anything of the board and that I would just tape it against the immobiliser aerial and tie it up somewhere.

Having made what I thought was the less risky choice, I am now unable to start the engine on account of it being immobilised. FiatECUScan confirms that the key is faulty. It comes up with this if it is immobilised in general. Can mean aerial broken, key broken, incorrect key, etc. Tried known working aerial from my other car. Checked wiring over and over again. Tried disconnecting the battery for an hour or so.

I have been handling the key a lot in the last 24 hours, but otherwise I haven't altered anything and now it won't work. I suppose I may have broken the key, but I'm not convinced. Don't have a spare. Am interested in trying an emergency start. What information will FIAT/RAC want from me to get a code to try? Is it even possible without a dashboard?

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

VIN of donor vehicle, might be obtainable with origional reg number.

Only issues I can see is proving you own the vehicle. Normally you'd show V5C, but that is going to be different to the origional vehicle that your going to be obtaining the code for

 

[lewey]

VIN of donor vehicle, might be obtainable with origional reg number.

Only issues I can see is proving you own the vehicle. Normally you'd show V5C, but that is going to be different to the origional vehicle that your going to be obtaining the code for

Yes indeed. If that's true, then I'm buggered. Looking at the emergency start procedure I found in eLearn, I have to count the blinking light and then press the pedal, based on number of blinks. Not possible without sourcing a dash and wiring it all in which will take a bit. Will it help even if it did start though? Having looked through other similar threads, it has worked for some and not re-occurred, but it's far from a guarantee. Timing is poor, I've just put the car on eBay.

 

[lewey]

Gonna make a new thread as this is now away from the original topic!