Technical Relay or switching issue?

[Wertyu123]

Hi.. Recently my camper has stopped supplying 12v to my 3 way fridge & is no longer auto retracting the sat dish on startup.. Ive checked all fuses. I don't know where the offending dohicky would be.. Please help if you actually know what /where the problem is..
Thanks tim

 

[rayc]

It looks like you have lost the D+ signal. Without knowing how your camper is wired or what control system it uses it is impossible to diagnose. My Electroblock control has a switch to change the D+ from active HI to LO. My system needs it to be active LO, if the switch is set to HI then the auto step retracting, fridge 12v and leisure battery charging do not work.

 

[Wertyu123]

It looks like you have lost the D+ signal. Without knowing how your camper is wired or what control system it uses it is impossible to diagnose. My Electroblock control has a switch to change the D+ from active HI to LO. My system needs it to be active LO, if the switch is set to HI then the auto step retracting, fridge 12v and leisure battery charging do not work.

D+?. I have a sargent ec450 system.. But i think switching occurs b4 that system

 

[Anthony489]

Hi

The Sargent technical guide mentions a requirement for an "engine running" signal to be supplied to EC450 systems fitted to motorhomes. This is normally called the D+ signal, and would be the first thing to check. I'm not sure if this input goes to the PSU or the Control Panel, you would need the full manual to determine that.

Secondly, the smart charging guide also implies that the Power supply section performs some operations on the basis of accurately sensing battery voltages. Maybe the sensing of vehicle battery voltage has been lost (or is in error) for some reason ? Does the control panel display sensible voltages for the vehicle and leisure batteries, i.e. around 12.5 Volts when not being charged and 14.0 volts when charging ? Any figures should tally with an independent measurement using a voltmeter across the relevant battery.

 

[PurdeyPepper]

Hi.. Recently my camper has stopped supplying 12v to my 3 way fridge & is no longer auto retracting the sat dish on startup.. Ive checked all fuses. I don't know where the offending dohicky would be.. Please help if you actually know what /where the problem is..
Thanks tim

Hi, I have the same problem as you describe. Did you get it fixed?
Ta!

 

[Communicator]

Hi, I have the same problem as you describe. Did you get it fixed?
Ta!

If you provide details of your base vehicle, and make of 12V electrical installation e.g. Sargent, Schaudt, CEB, etc. someone may be able to help.

 

[PurdeyPepper]

If you provide details of your base vehicle, and make of 12V electrical installation e.g. Sargent, Schaudt, CEB, etc. someone may be able to help.

I have a Hobby Toskana 2013 on a Fiat Ducato 250. The distribution board is a DS300 (CBE).
I had this repaired by Apuljacks as there was some obvious damage. £454.00. The symptoms are just the same; no D+ signal so step not retracting, no 12v for fridge, sat dish not retracting.
I’ve called several firms but nobody seems to want to touch a Hobby. Getting rather desperate now.

 

[Communicator]

I have a Hobby Toskana 2013 on a Fiat Ducato 250. The distribution board is a DS300 (CBE).
I had this repaired by Apuljacks as there was some obvious damage. £454.00. The symptoms are just the same; no D+ signal so step not retracting, no 12v for fridge, sat dish not retracting.
I’ve called several firms but nobody seems to want to touch a Hobby. Getting rather desperate now.

My PVC has a CBE DS520, so I am familiar with the CBE system.

CBE systems do not use a standard D+ signal. Instead an ignition switched supply is taken from the base vehicle, and the voltage is monitored on the DSxxx. When voltage exceeds about 13.3V, indicating that the alternator is generating (engine running) the base vehicle derived supply is used as a simulated D+. This simulated D+ is made available at blade terminal(s) at the RS of the DS300 board. This ouput is protected by fuse 10 (RH end). I am not sure whether this fuse is also included in the circuit for the integral split charge and fridge relays.

The ignition switched supply is connected to the DS300 at connector 18 pin 1. See pages 14 & 16 of attached handbook. Typically a blue wire is used for this connection, while a white wire is connected to pin 2 for the mains charger ON indication.

With ignition ON, you should have nominal 12V at connector 18/1 above.

I cannot help with the Ignition +ve connection point on the base vehicle, as that does not appear on the converters panel that you may have at the base of the RH B pillar, but if struggling there is a lot of general info in the x250 Training Manual in the "Downloads" section at the top of page.

To help others, please post progress and resolution on this thread.

May I add that £454 seems a high repair charge. I would expect a new system for that

 

[PurdeyPepper]

My PVC has a CBE DS520, so I am familiar with the CBE system.

CBE systems do not use a standard D+ signal. Instead an ignition switched supply is taken from the base vehicle, and the voltage is monitored on the DSxxx. When voltage exceeds about 13.3V, indicating that the alternator is generating (engine running) the base vehicle derived supply is used as a simulated D+. This simulated D+ is made available at blade terminal(s) at the RS of the DS300 board. This ouput is protected by fuse 10 (RH end). I am not sure whether this fuse is also included in the circuit for the integral split charge and fridge relays.

The ignition switched supply is connected to the DS300 at connector 18 pin 1. See pages 14 & 16 of attached handbook. Typically a blue wire is used for this connection, while a white wire is connected to pin 2 for the mains charger ON indication.

With ignition ON, you should have nominal 12V at connector 18/1 above.

I cannot help with the Ignition +ve connection point on the base vehicle, as that does not appear on the converters panel that you may have at the base of the RH B pillar, but if struggling there is a lot of general info in the x250 Training Manual in the "Downloads" section at the top of page.

To help others, please post progress and resolution on this thread.

May I add that £454 seems a high repair charge. I would expect a new system for that

Hi, firstly I’d like to say thanks for your help.
I’ve done some tests.
With no mains hook up. There is nothing on 18/1 or 18/2
With mains hook up and charger turned off, there is nothing on either pin.
With charger on there is 12v on 18/1 and with ignition on there is 12v on 18/2.
I don’t know what you mean by RS of the DS300 unless you mean the right side where the D+ signal should operate steps, fridge etc. There is nothing there.
Regards Chris.

 

[Communicator]

Hi, firstly I’d like to say thanks for your help.
I’ve done some tests.
With no mains hook up. There is nothing on 18/1 or 18/2
With mains hook up and charger turned off, there is nothing on either pin.
With charger on there is 12v on 18/1 and with ignition on there is 12v on 18/2.
I don’t know what you mean by RS of the DS300 unless you mean the right side where the D+ signal should operate steps, fridge etc. There is nothing there.
Regards Chris.

Sorry for confusion, for RS read RHS as suggested. That terminal should only come live when starter battery (B1) voltage exceeds 13.3V. See "ELECTRONIC BATTERY SEPARATOR" on page 16 of CBE manual. Start engine, 18/2 should be above 13.3V, and output terminal 12 (see page 14) should be at similar voltage. If not then check 3A fuse 10 at RHS of row of fuses.

 

[PurdeyPepper]

Hi, apologies for lack of contact. I got admitted to hospital.

 

[Communicator]

Hi, apologies for lack of contact. I got admitted to hospital.

That could be either good, or bad news. My wife was admited at about a weeks notice on 7th May, after waiting for over 4 years, and that was for a major operation.

I hope that your outcome is OK.

 

[PurdeyPepper]

That could be either good, or bad news. My wife was admited at about a weeks notice on 7th May, after waiting for over 4 years, and that was for a major operation.

I hope that your outcome is OK.

That could be either good, or bad news. My wife was admited at about a weeks notice on 7th May, after waiting for over 4 years, and that was for a major operation.

I hope that your outcome is OK.

Hi, my outcome turned out to be good; thanks.
I wasn’t getting 13.3v on B1 or 18/1. Found a 50amp fuse from battery had blown. Replaced fuse and bingo; everything working as it should.
Thanks so much for your help, I’ve been trying to get so called experts to take a look; all frightened off when I tell them the van is a Hobby.
Your help was invaluable.
Cheers Chris.

 

[Anthony489]

Hi

Glad you got this sorted, but you need to find out why there was enough excess current to blow that 50 Amp fuse (unless you can recall an "incident"). Sometimes the state of the blown fuse can give a clue as to the degree of overload, e.g. a moderate overload will just show a melted ball on the fuse wire each side of the break, whereas a significant overload will show blackening and deposits from vapourised metal where it "went with a bang".

I recommend checking that no relevant high current cables downstream of that fuse have chafed insulation where they are next to grounded metalwork.