Technical Refitting Weber after strip down & service

[ClassicFiat500]

I have sent my 40dcoe to The Carburettor Exchange in Leighton Buzzard, they strip it down sand blast the outer casting & replace all the jets etc. Theoretically it should be back with me looking & working like a brand new carb (fingers crossed)
My question is as a bit of a novice, should it just bolt back on and connect the cables & adjust the tick over or are there any other adjustment i should do. {They are replacing all the jets with new ones of the same size}I will change the plugs, it has 123 ignition. I know the carb is too big for a 652 cc but it was on when I bought the car.
All advise is always welcome.
Barry

 

[the hobbler]

As far as I am aware Barry, the only ADJUSTABLE parts of a DCOE are the idle speed and the mixture screws. I would check with the repairers to ascertain if they have set the mixture screw(s) and the idles crew at optimum settings---or what? I do have some basic settings in case you are stuck, but I am sure that there are Forum members with far more DCOE experience than I have.

 

[ClassicFiat500]

Hi The Hobbler or anyone who can help.
The Carburettor Exchange said it should be back with me the beginning of April, they quoted 10 weeks to do the job, so i will be looking forward to receive it back. On reflection I could have bought a new smaller carb for not much more money, they are charging £145 for a complete rebuild, I suppose I could always sell it & buy a smaller carb but I would have to replace the inlet manifolds.
When its back hopefully it will go on with no problems. The only thing I will have to do is buy a new inner solid choke cable as it is bent and twisted at the carb end.
Would you know if there is a better accelerator connection than just a straight pull type as the one in my photo? I seem to think I have seen one that is more like a circular fitting on the carb that works on a cam basis, hope that makes sense, I would think it would be more precise & less crude rather than using the twisted bits of wire and cable ties for spacers.
Barry

 

[the hobbler]

What I suggest (and I would do) is to try and obtain the top cover of the fan-shroud. Try asking Lucaz at LP Garage (Sudbury)--he often breaks 126 cars and engines. CAREFULLY remove the complete throttle link pivot assembly from the steel cover, having first ascertained where it is positioned on the cover, although depending how much clearance you have under the carb, you may have to work out exactly where it is to be fitted. Mark out on the aluminium cover where it is to fit, grind away the fins on the aluminium cover (which will allow secure fitment of the pivot housing) and bolt the pivot housing to the aluminium cover with 4 small bolts and ny-lok nuts. This will allow you to use a standard throttle cable. Connect the pivot arm to the carb with an adjustable ball-jointed link from SU Carbs (Burlen Fuels)---they do fit in to the pivot arm with no drilling required. These links are available in a selection of lengths and come with LHT on one end and RHT on the other end--this allows for fine adjustment without having to take the link off. The matching ball-ends are also available in both RH and LH thread types from SU. You might find that you get a better 'line' by fitting the ball-joint on the UNDERSIDE of the pivot-arm.
Doing it this way will give you a neat and tidy throttle-link assembly with readily available parts

 

[Bleeding Knuckles]

View attachment 216351

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I have sent my 40dcoe to The Carburettor Exchange in Leighton Buzzard, they strip it down sand blast the outer casting & replace all the jets etc. Theoretically it should be back with me looking & working like a brand new carb (fingers crossed)
My question is as a bit of a novice, should it just bolt back on and connect the cables & adjust the tick over or are there any other adjustment i should do. {They are replacing all the jets with new ones of the same size}I will change the plugs, it has 123 ignition. I know the carb is too big for a 652 cc but it was on when I bought the car.
All advise is always welcome.
Barry

Hi Barry, I would council that you obtain a complete list of ALL the fittings and jets - if you don't already have one, that they are removing/replacing. There are a lot of parts to a Weber 40DCOE make sure you get your parts back otherwise they can simply use them in another build. Are you aware of the original settings fitted in your carb (Air Corrector size, Main jets size, Pilot or Idle jet size etc) Unless any of your parts are damaged or adjusted (drilled out)
there will be no need to replace them as it will make no difference to the running. Yes the 40 is a big carb, but the interior venturi can be fitted with a smaller size to accomodate the smaller engine. I hope they don't sand blast the body as you must make sure that it is spotless before it goes back on the engine - vapour blasting is better. There are special fittings available for the weber 40DCOE to accommodate throttle cable to butterfly. Look at 'EUROCARB"
and or search for weber linkage kits, they are made to fit onto the carb body itself either on top or below. If you need any other info ask.
Ian.

 

[ClassicFiat500]

Just collected my Weber 40 dco I asked why it was so difficult starting , he showed me a picture of the gunge & rubbish that had built up blocking the jets. The main reason was the fact the car is used very little, this then makes the fuel to virtually go stagnant due to the hi Ethanol content. They recommended me to make sure I switch off the fuel supply before closing the ignition off (so as to drain the petrol out of the Carb) IF NOT running the car for long periods of time, as I have done.
This info may be useful for anyone not using their cars for long periods. I fortunately have an electric fuel pump with an isolation switch.
All I have to do now is bolt it back on the engine.

 

[Bleeding Knuckles]

Just collected my Weber 40 dco I asked why it was so difficult starting , he showed me a picture of the gunge & rubbish that had built up blocking the jets. The main reason was the fact the car is used very little, this then makes the fuel to virtually go stagnant due to the hi Ethanol content. They recommended me to make sure I switch off the fuel supply before closing the ignition off (so as to drain the petrol out of the Carb) IF NOT running the car for long periods of time, as I have done.
This info may be useful for anyone not using their cars for long periods. I fortunately have an electric fuel pump with an isolation switch.
All I have to do now is bolt it back on the engine.

Hi Barry, if you are having problems long term with the use of 'Ethanol' in petrol try using 'MILLERS OILS VSPe additive this helps combat ethanol and gives a few octane points to your fuel - your engine will run better, trust me I've been using the stuff for years and my twin choke never blocks up!!!
Ian.

 

[the hobbler]

Do you have an Esso garage near you? If you do, use their very top grade as although it will say 5% Ethanol on the pump, in a lot of UK areas the very highest Esso fuel has NO ethanol in it. Check on their web-site to see if you are in a 'non-ethanol' area. I am (North wales, just outside Chester), but I must admit, I do still put the 'anti-ethonal' gunge into the tank every now and again. What always baffles me is how people "improve" things and make a complete hash of it! Whoever put you throttle linkage together is a complete wally ( try to be very polite on the Forum).
Yes, you can get a throttle 'roller', but you will have to source an extra long throttle cable, with a ring at the pedal end to fit the Fiat attachment method. Personall, I would look at using the original Fiat throttle cable and re-positioning the standard 'pivot-yoke' and then a simple throttle link with ball-joints at each end. Burlen Fuels can supply a proper throttle link (in various lengths) with L/H thread at 1 end and R/H thread at the other, making for very easy adjustment. Their ball-joint 'balls' will fit the Fiat throttle 'yoke'.

 

[ClassicFiat500]

Hi The Hobbler once again for your knowledgeable advise, this forum would be lost without you and Bleeding Knuckles & other regular inputters who respond so fast & accuracy.
Barry