Technical red light on my dash board.

Currently reading:
Technical red light on my dash board.

Yes and no.

Yes cos it wouldnt deliver enough voltage to the ECU, no cos it might do....
 
well i was driving home before and all my lights where dim and then all of a sudden my light etc etc... went off. then this light keep flickering and i drove on as i needed to get home, and the light stayed on.

anyways i think it must have been my battery as my car was still running, so im guessing my altenator was still working as it cause my car still ran.
 
I kinda have the same problem, apart from on mine, when you start the engine, the same light stays on for a few seconds then the engines revs drops slightly and it goes off
 
the beasto said:
well i was driving home before and all my lights where dim and then all of a sudden my light etc etc... went off. then this light keep flickering and i drove on as i needed to get home, and the light stayed on.

anyways i think it must have been my battery as my car was still running, so im guessing my altenator was still working as it cause my car still ran.

It sounds like the alternator has died rather than the battery, although if you keep going like this then the battery will die too.

With the engine running the alternator gives about 13.8 volts, the battery only 12V

If your alternator fails to provide then the car will run on its battery alone, but there will be no recharging going on, therefore the battery will beging to loose power.

Your ECU wants to see at least 12V, if it sees less then all the values change and the ECU switches to safe mode and puts the light on.

Cheers

D
 
the beasto said:
its the battery thats gone mate, the alternator was rebuilt a few months ago. :D


Prob not battery mate. From very recent experience (although I admittedly have little), sounds like alternator. See previous threads about my little problem.

If I am correct, if alternator was working then battery would not be losing it's charge, which is why your lights are dimming etc.

I would also be less inclined to trust a rebuilt alternator than a brand spanker!

Hope this helps
 
Can i put a little input in here.

1) Batterys on a car normally drop in voltage a small amount when you turn the ignition on. test this by turning the igniton on. it should be no lower then about 11.5 Volts if it is at least one cell is gone. when you turn the ignition off it should rise a little to at least 12V. normally after the engine has been running isa at about 13V.

2) Alternators charge at above 13.8V when idling normally if the battery is flat the power regulator allows more amperage and a little more votage through. if your reves are at 2500rpm the voltage should be around 14.3V it should not get much higher then this.

3) Is the small thing that looks like the bottle spraying not that there is somthing wrong with the fuel injector timing or array? I might have a different item in mind some pictures might help a little.

4) No onw has sujested checking all the wires are secure. Ampage is mopre important then the voltage and if you put a broken or badly connected wire on the altanator then the ampage will be less then the battery and car need to run.
 
Back
Top