Technical Rear Number Plate light BEEP BEEP BEEP
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Technical Rear Number Plate light BEEP BEEP BEEP
Re: Bl***y Fiats.
for the rear part that sits above the whole number plate containing the lights and boot open button?
that sounds like a price from any dealer in my opinion as i have done this for a few getting colour coded
for the rear part that sits above the whole number plate containing the lights and boot open button?
that sounds like a price from any dealer in my opinion as i have done this for a few getting colour coded
Re: Bl***y Fiats.
well you dont get the metal strip, you just get the black plastic bit. What i dont understand is why the need to colour key it as you dont see it. Well on the mw you dont.
And no boot opening button as mines hidden on the rear of the handle.
well you dont get the metal strip, you just get the black plastic bit. What i dont understand is why the need to colour key it as you dont see it. Well on the mw you dont.
And no boot opening button as mines hidden on the rear of the handle.
Number plate lights - spies!
I'm sure others have been here before me
Just before we went off to Ireland in the Stilo I had a front headlight bulb go (n/s front) which was in itself a pain the backside to change but just after that I started to get the warning about number plate lights..... which more often than not went out a few seconds after the car started.
In my changeover day yesterday (from dayshifts to nights) I decided to have a squint at the number plate lights and see what was what. Now having had several Italian cars I knew this would be fun, but little prepared me for what I found..... sadly I didn't have my camera to hand so you'll have to rely on my somewhat dodgy descriptions of what I found.
The mounting screws were shot, managed to get 3 out of 4 out successfully (with much careful 'tweaking') and they went straight in the bin, I thought that only Lancia put stupid rusty screws into such fitments but seems that it's common across the family! Worse than useless unless you live somewhere nice and dry and warm.
Lamps came out easy enough (interesting fitment, nice thinking), but the amount of corrosion that was in there was truly astonishing How on earth the lights were getting any power at all was a miracle.
I cleaned the contacts inside with some electrical cleaner and when that ran out cleaned up the oversrpay, dried the inside as best I could and liberally sprayed in some WD40. The holding screw mounts were extremely mucky, gave them a damn good clean and applied liberal amounts of vaseline to ensure that future removals will go more easily.
The lights themselves..... well they were incredibly filthy as well as corroded to hell. The bulbs were intact and cleaned up OK. Managed to break one of the light connections (thank God for superglue ) but they cleaned up OK and a bit of wire wool and an emery board (thanks to the Mrs) ensured the contacts came up pretty clean.
This all took much longer than I had originally anticipated and with a 45 minute drive to work looming the whole lot got bunged back in sharpish-like. I would have preferred to have drilled out the broken screw but time was against me. I used (you'll like this) screws from a washing machine to replace the dodgy Fiat ones..... when I had Lancias I discovered the virtues of sourcing quality screws and bolts from unusual sources. Top quality screws in this instance from a Hotpoint (although other sources are available), which will not rust into place
Moment of truth.... turned the lights on and alarm city..... and no rear number plate lights. Bar steward :bang: Took 'em out again, re-cleaned the contacts and added some vaseline to help prevent future corrosion. Turned lights on.... nothing
Applied old Lancia logic and thumped the lights hard. Bingo! They live!
Now have brighter number plate lights than I can ever remember on the Stilo. Did get the dash alarm briefly this morning when I left work but went out in a second...
Fingers crossed they'll continue to work OK. However, still have to drill out one broken screw and replace it. This is a precautionary tale, if you've had this 'spy' then I'd urge you to have a look at the lights and consider having a 'play' like I have done...... certainly replace those damn silly screws for something more meaningful :idea:
Have fun
I'm sure others have been here before me
Just before we went off to Ireland in the Stilo I had a front headlight bulb go (n/s front) which was in itself a pain the backside to change but just after that I started to get the warning about number plate lights..... which more often than not went out a few seconds after the car started.In my changeover day yesterday (from dayshifts to nights) I decided to have a squint at the number plate lights and see what was what. Now having had several Italian cars I knew this would be fun, but little prepared me for what I found..... sadly I didn't have my camera to hand so you'll have to rely on my somewhat dodgy descriptions of what I found.
The mounting screws were shot, managed to get 3 out of 4 out successfully (with much careful 'tweaking') and they went straight in the bin, I thought that only Lancia put stupid rusty screws into such fitments but seems that it's common across the family! Worse than useless unless you live somewhere nice and dry and warm.
Lamps came out easy enough (interesting fitment, nice thinking), but the amount of corrosion that was in there was truly astonishing
How on earth the lights were getting any power at all was a miracle.I cleaned the contacts inside with some electrical cleaner and when that ran out cleaned up the oversrpay, dried the inside as best I could and liberally sprayed in some WD40. The holding screw mounts were extremely mucky, gave them a damn good clean and applied liberal amounts of vaseline to ensure that future removals will go more easily.
The lights themselves..... well they were incredibly filthy as well as corroded to hell. The bulbs were intact and cleaned up OK. Managed to break one of the light connections (thank God for superglue
) but they cleaned up OK and a bit of wire wool and an emery board (thanks to the Mrs) ensured the contacts came up pretty clean. This all took much longer than I had originally anticipated and with a 45 minute drive to work looming the whole lot got bunged back in sharpish-like. I would have preferred to have drilled out the broken screw but time was against me. I used (you'll like this) screws from a washing machine to replace the dodgy Fiat ones..... when I had Lancias I discovered the virtues of sourcing quality screws and bolts from unusual sources. Top quality screws in this instance from a Hotpoint (although other sources are available
), which will not rust into place Moment of truth.... turned the lights on and alarm city..... and no rear number plate lights. Bar steward :bang: Took 'em out again, re-cleaned the contacts and added some vaseline to help prevent future corrosion. Turned lights on.... nothing
Applied old Lancia logic and thumped the lights hard. Bingo! They live!
Now have brighter number plate lights than I can ever remember on the Stilo. Did get the dash alarm briefly this morning when I left work but went out in a second...
Fingers crossed they'll continue to work OK. However, still have to drill out one broken screw and replace it. This is a precautionary tale, if you've had this 'spy' then I'd urge you to have a look at the lights and consider having a 'play' like I have done...... certainly replace those damn silly screws for something more meaningful :idea:
Have fun
Hi Guys
Got a little problem (Well little in that its driving me up the wall! :bang: )
Got the dreaded BEEP BEEP BEPP, the other day, telling me a bulb had gone in teh number plate cluster on my Stilo MW (It has the seperate glass tail gate if it helps!)
Sure enough a bulb was out (The drivers side) so i popped a brand new one in and all was ok, for about 10 minutes then it happended again.
Took the bulb out and tested it, and it was fine, put a voltmeter across the contacts on the car and it read ok, so poppedt he bulb back in and NOTHING Arghhhh!.
Ran the voltmeter across the bulb whilst it was in situ, and it was no registering any voltage. (Perhaps a bad earth), so i tried hooking up a temporary earth to aid it, and nothing.
I have resoted temporarily to relaying a feed direct from the other bulb to light up the drivers side one, this works, yet still i get the BEEP BEEP BEEP.
Basically could the cluster be faulty (The cluster that hold teh 2 number plate lights and the tailgate open switch?).
Has anyone experienced this before? if so Helpppppp!
Or as an alternative, does anyone know how to deactivate the warning system for the number plate lights (Either by disconnecting a wire, feeding an earth to somewhere etc, as i make a point of regularly checking my lights anyway, so the system is pointless for me, especially when it has never told me about a headlight bulb going down, which is far more important (imo) than a rear number plate light
Advice greatly appreciated
thanks
Rob
Got a little problem (Well little in that its driving me up the wall! :bang: )
Got the dreaded BEEP BEEP BEPP, the other day, telling me a bulb had gone in teh number plate cluster on my Stilo MW (It has the seperate glass tail gate if it helps!)
Sure enough a bulb was out (The drivers side) so i popped a brand new one in and all was ok, for about 10 minutes then it happended again.
Took the bulb out and tested it, and it was fine, put a voltmeter across the contacts on the car and it read ok, so poppedt he bulb back in and NOTHING Arghhhh!.
Ran the voltmeter across the bulb whilst it was in situ, and it was no registering any voltage. (Perhaps a bad earth), so i tried hooking up a temporary earth to aid it, and nothing.
I have resoted temporarily to relaying a feed direct from the other bulb to light up the drivers side one, this works, yet still i get the BEEP BEEP BEEP.
Basically could the cluster be faulty (The cluster that hold teh 2 number plate lights and the tailgate open switch?).
Has anyone experienced this before? if so Helpppppp!
Or as an alternative, does anyone know how to deactivate the warning system for the number plate lights (Either by disconnecting a wire, feeding an earth to somewhere etc, as i make a point of regularly checking my lights anyway, so the system is pointless for me, especially when it has never told me about a headlight bulb going down, which is far more important (imo) than a rear number plate light
Advice greatly appreciated
thanks
Rob
Took the bulb out and tested it, and it was fine, put a voltmeter across the contacts on the car and it read ok, so poppedt he bulb back in and NOTHING Arghhhh!.
Ran the voltmeter across the bulb whilst it was in situ, and it was no registering any voltage.
The bulb isn't making contact with the terminals
Ran the voltmeter across the bulb whilst it was in situ, and it was no registering any voltage.
The bulb isn't making contact with the terminals
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Had it on my 5 door that one and it was a bad earth..
The bulb as far as i am aware is held in, by the terminals.
Any ideas how to cure the bad earth problem P,
I'm pretty adept at wiring just dont want to make a boo boo, which ends up costing the earth
As far as i can see the Drivers side lamp is a slave off the passenger side, and has a flat 4 pin lead going to it.
do you suggest a new earth plumbed in from the body, if so where on the small circuit board teh bulb connects too should i put it??
Many thanks so far gents
Rob
Any ideas how to cure the bad earth problem P,
I'm pretty adept at wiring just dont want to make a boo boo, which ends up costing the earth
As far as i can see the Drivers side lamp is a slave off the passenger side, and has a flat 4 pin lead going to it.
do you suggest a new earth plumbed in from the body, if so where on the small circuit board teh bulb connects too should i put it??
Many thanks so far gents
Rob
If you have 12v across the contacts like you say then you have 12v and an earth and a 12v bulb will light
If you just checked the 12v to another earth point then that's ok for checking the supply line. Then with power off just check for zero resistance of the other contact to an earth point then you know the earth line is ok
If the bulb isn't making proper contact then you may need to bend the connector contacts until it does
If you just checked the 12v to another earth point then that's ok for checking the supply line. Then with power off just check for zero resistance of the other contact to an earth point then you know the earth line is ok
If the bulb isn't making proper contact then you may need to bend the connector contacts until it does
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12v across the contacts - Passenger side lights up,
Put new bulb (already tested and fine!) in the drivers side and no light.
Check contacts when bulb is in place and no voltage?
I have had to run as a temporary measure a 12v feed from the passenger side light to the drivers side to avoid getting into trouble.
I have ran it fro mthe 12v passenger side contact to the drivers side 12v contact.
Both lights work fine like ths, but the fault light and warnign still activate (???)
Put new bulb (already tested and fine!) in the drivers side and no light.
Check contacts when bulb is in place and no voltage?
I have had to run as a temporary measure a 12v feed from the passenger side light to the drivers side to avoid getting into trouble.
I have ran it fro mthe 12v passenger side contact to the drivers side 12v contact.
Both lights work fine like ths, but the fault light and warnign still activate (???)
Sounds like you have one of those high resistance (poor contact) faults that is enough for 12v to get through but not enough to overcome the extra resistance and light the bulb
The fact it lights when you bridge the wiring across shows poor contact /high resistance somewhere between the body computer and the light
The fact it lights when you bridge the wiring across shows poor contact /high resistance somewhere between the body computer and the light
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Any idea how to "trick" the car into not registering the fault.
I.e Feeding an earth to somewhere / or a 12v or less feed.
I have access to the loom that connects to the number plate lights and the tailgate switch/button.
I there is however a pink wire and a white wire in the loom which i reckon is the fault indication loom. I know to register the fault one or both of the lights must either send a voltage or earth to trigger a fault.
Any ideas anyone?
thanks
Rob
I.e Feeding an earth to somewhere / or a 12v or less feed.
I have access to the loom that connects to the number plate lights and the tailgate switch/button.
I there is however a pink wire and a white wire in the loom which i reckon is the fault indication loom. I know to register the fault one or both of the lights must either send a voltage or earth to trigger a fault.
Any ideas anyone?
thanks
Rob
Fooling it might be just harder work than trying to fix it so
TO FIX
Each number plate light has its own separate feed from the body computer, one is from pin 9 on body computer connector D and one from pin 38 on connector E. Find the wire colour to the suspect bulb at the bulb holder to find out which circuit to investigate
Body computer connectors D and E
So, with a long wire attached to one end of a multimeter, I'd check for resistance/ continuity between the body computer to any wire access points along the route or stab the wire to get a contact.
First port of call would be the cable at the hatch hinge point as this gets most movement and you can check whether the problem is upstream or down stream of that
FOOLING IT
To fool it then it expects a 12v lamp resistance to be there so you'd need to simulate that to the body computer
TO FIX
Each number plate light has its own separate feed from the body computer, one is from pin 9 on body computer connector D and one from pin 38 on connector E. Find the wire colour to the suspect bulb at the bulb holder to find out which circuit to investigate
Body computer connectors D and E
So, with a long wire attached to one end of a multimeter, I'd check for resistance/ continuity between the body computer to any wire access points along the route or stab the wire to get a contact.
First port of call would be the cable at the hatch hinge point as this gets most movement and you can check whether the problem is upstream or down stream of that
FOOLING IT
To fool it then it expects a 12v lamp resistance to be there so you'd need to simulate that to the body computer
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all that pratting around when it can just be replaced with the inards from a scrap yard or cleaned up.
my 3door had leaked water into it so i cleaned it up and got it working again, 2 hours work max
my 3door had leaked water into it so i cleaned it up and got it working again, 2 hours work max
That would be the answer if the bulb holder was the problem but it isn't the bulb holder because the lamp works when power is jumped over to the second bulb. It's a problem with the power supply and the body computer will keep saying there's a problem until it's fixed or fooled into thinking it's fixed
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Might be of some use, whip the lights out again and re-check and re-clean the supply contacts - worked for me
Most of the time........
Most of the time........
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Abz, you just reminded of your other input - so threads are now merged
Cursed rust
Well, a simple task that turns into a nightmare...
One of the numberplate bulbs went out yesterday, shows the diagnostic system on my Stilo works. Purchased a bulb from Fiat for a quid and went to fit it. The screws were rusty, but figured if I went slowly, I could loosen them. Nope, the heads just disintegrated enough that none of the 100s of screw heads I have fit and now I can't access the bulb. The only thing I can think of I may be able to do is buy some of that stuff that hardens rust and hope it gives me enough grip with a screwdriver to get it.
Looks like I'm going back to the Fiat dealership or some garage to get stung massive labour charges just to change a bloody bulb
Anyone with any idea how I may side step the above dealership option?
Well, a simple task that turns into a nightmare...
One of the numberplate bulbs went out yesterday, shows the diagnostic system on my Stilo works. Purchased a bulb from Fiat for a quid and went to fit it. The screws were rusty, but figured if I went slowly, I could loosen them. Nope, the heads just disintegrated enough that none of the 100s of screw heads I have fit and now I can't access the bulb. The only thing I can think of I may be able to do is buy some of that stuff that hardens rust and hope it gives me enough grip with a screwdriver to get it.
Looks like I'm going back to the Fiat dealership or some garage to get stung massive labour charges just to change a bloody bulb
Anyone with any idea how I may side step the above dealership option?
Re: Cursed rust
a litle bit of weld and a new screw head..
then let it harden and undo it..
2minute job
Well, a simple task that turns into a nightmare...
One of the numberplate bulbs went out yesterday, shows the diagnostic system on my Stilo works. Purchased a bulb from Fiat for a quid and went to fit it. The screws were rusty, but figured if I went slowly, I could loosen them. Nope, the heads just disintegrated enough that none of the 100s of screw heads I have fit and now I can't access the bulb. The only thing I can think of I may be able to do is buy some of that stuff that hardens rust and hope it gives me enough grip with a screwdriver to get it.
Looks like I'm going back to the Fiat dealership or some garage to get stung massive labour charges just to change a bloody bulb
Anyone with any idea how I may side step the above dealership option?
a litle bit of weld and a new screw head..
then let it harden and undo it..
2minute job
Re: Cursed rust
You mean weld a new screw head to the rusty one, is there a particular way of doing this? Seems pretty jammed in, tried some WD40 to loosen it, but to no avail.
Typical that something like this happens before the Fiat Scotland Meet
You mean weld a new screw head to the rusty one, is there a particular way of doing this? Seems pretty jammed in, tried some WD40 to loosen it, but to no avail.
Typical that something like this happens before the Fiat Scotland Meet
