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Technical rear brake nipples ?

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Technical rear brake nipples ?

scott gilmour95

scott gilmour95

scotty
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Apr 10, 2012
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gone to bleed my rear brakes today and the little ba$tardZ at the garage when splicing my brake lines for corrosion last mot rounded them!. not wanting to damage them and the car rendered useless im going to get new ones before I remove them viciously with grips. trying to find some on ebay and other websites im struggling finding a few different various sizes like m7 and m8 ... to to clued up on where the sizes matter but wondering if anyone could lend us a hand by giving us a clue or link to where I can get some ?
 
try plus gas A on threads now anyway...
 
to replace slaves you still need to undo unions so plus gas today and to morrow...
 
Thabks guys! Aint got no gas tho :( thays a weekend at my fathers job haha thanks for the help :)
 
I've pretty much never struggled to get a brake line off with a proper brake spanner, a normal open ended just won't do. As for seized nipples (sounds painful) doesn't usually happen on drum cylinders unless the last fool over tightened them. I'd go for Ming's moley method if they round off though...
 
Honeymonster said:
.... As for seized nipples (sounds painful) doesn't usually happen on drum cylinders unless the last fool over tightened them.
Click to expand...
Seized nipples tend to occur due to rust on the threads -hence Fingers suggestion of stainless nipples.
Smear a little grease on the threads after fitting new nipples, then fit a rubber nipple cover. If you know of a local cable company, the cables come with a small rubber cap over the ends of the cable = FREE nipple covers :D
Do this & you will never have to worry about some monkey rounding off seized nipples ever again (y)
 
Ouby said:
Seized nipples tend to occur due to rust on the threads -hence Fingers suggestion of stainless nipples.
Click to expand...


Indeed but mainly on callipers, I'm yet to have struggled with one rusty or not on a rear cylinder and I've removed a fare few. With the right tools and a bit of effort most brake parts come apart easily. With callipers the heat causes complete seizing of the nipples, who hasn't drilled one of these out... but with rear cylinders the heat build up is no way near as bad and they always seem to come out with reasonable ease, unless a monkey has over tightened them. Stainless ones are great for corrosion resistance and worth the extra money. However don't break one of these all you'll never get it out, and in my experience they need a little extra tweak to get a good seal because of the harder metal. I have them all all round with the rubber caps.


Worth pointing out the new cylinders will come with nipples (just steel...) I fitted a pair of genuine Magneti Marelli ones last Saturday. The only thing I struggled to get out was the little 10mm bolts that actually hold the cylinders in. :bang:
On one side the heads had disintegrated so much there was nothing to round off, and this was a low mileage car with very little corrosion.
 
Last edited:
Honeymonster said:
Indeed but mainly on callipers, I'm yet to have struggled with one rusty or not on a rear cylinder and I've removed a fare few.
Click to expand...
You've never owned a Mini then ;)
.... & YES I have discs all round on the Sei! Fun & games for the MOT this morning -bleeding the rounded off nipple I hadn't got round to replacing/protecting since I bought the car :eek:.
 
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