Technical Punto Mk II dashboard lights and error codes not working

[glaesum]

Hello, I come to you learned elders for advice

Here is my first problem:
About half of my dashboard warning lights do not work. When I start the car only the right cluster (check engine, temperature etc..) works. On the left cluster, the heater and fog light lamps work.

To be more specific - I have removed the power steering motor for relay replacement. This should cause the "power steering" warning light to ignite on the dashboard. This does not happen, even in test phase when starting the car.

I just bought this car very cheaply and I don't mind working on it so I am not upset. I just want to figure out how to get the lights working again. I've checked the fuses and wires (even behind the dashboard) and they look ok.

I suspect the seller did some naughty things to the electrics to hide the errors, but I didn't find any cut wires. I might try opening the instrument panel to check for desoldering.







The second problem:
I have removed the engine cooling fan for repair. I checked engine error codes with a OBD2 reader: P0115 and P0480, meaning temp sensor and fan need replacement. I cleared the codes, but they are not appearing again (but they should? The fan is disconnected and the temp sensor is the same)

tl;dr
1) Dashboard warning lights are faulty - no power steering light despite motor removed, what should I check?
2) Fan removed, temp sensor faulty - no error codes appear. Is there a problem?


Pic of my interior fuse box, what are the 3 fuses (2x5A+1x20A) near the arrow for?

 

[multipete]

Those fuses Not fiat fit. Where do they come from or go to ? Are they cut in to fiat wiring harness. .......Just seen you are from Finland, so may only be fitted in Finland, but they look like they are after market fit,and not by fiat.

 

[Ziggy122]

Those fuses are aftermarket and for extras like lights/stereo/sockets/towbar wiring not original to the car....

Codes wise
The ill double check meaning later
However the car wont ever known if the fans disconnected....
Only engine temp when it hits closed loop / several failures


Ziggy

 

[Ziggy122]

P0115 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction

Read more at:*https://www.obd-codes.com/p0115
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

Basically it saying a fault in the whole engine cooling sensor system

So wiring - sensor - ecu - power and earths etc
It knows its not right, not 100% where

Id say watch live data to see what the temperature sensors doing - probably at a perticulat temperature its probably dropping out and back in
But ecu is seeing this and says a fault
Id probably throw a sensor on it as its not mega expensive


P0480 - Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit

Read more at:*https://www.obd-codes.com/p0480
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

The ecu is requesting fan on by controlling the low current side of the relay only
It cant see anything on the high current side - so it cant see if the fan is working or not

Back to the low current side the ecu is able to switch on and off the low current side, by applying 12v to the relay, however the ecu is sensing the 12v is not making its way back to ground so open circuit....

This isnt related to the fan at all - just the control of it circuit....
So check the relays low current side
Check connections
Ensure the relay can actually generate a magnetic field to control the relay

Check that the power feed and ground is also good


Hope this babble has helped

Ziggy

 

[glaesum]

Thanks a lot Ziggy122! You posted very useful information.

Regarding the power steering light, I checked deeper into the instrument panel today. And sure enough, I found some aftermarket solutions behind the power steering light

After removing the "fix"-

At least it was done with fair play - a more bastardly person would have just broken off the LED.

As of now, I've ordered replacement relays for the power steering motor and a suitable electric scooter motor to replace the fan motor, which was seized. I'll be checking out the fan relays and temperature circuit later.

Regarding the aftermarket fuses - they seem to run somewhere "inside" and seem to be mounted in series with original Fiat wiring. I suspect a former audio installation.

 

[Ziggy122]

Thanks a lot Ziggy122! You posted very useful information.

Regarding the power steering light, I checked deeper into the instrument panel today. And sure enough, I found some aftermarket solutions behind the power steering light

After removing the "fix"-

At least it was done with fair play - a more bastardly person would have just broken off the LED.

As of now, I've ordered replacement relays for the power steering motor and a suitable electric scooter motor to replace the fan motor, which was seized. I'll be checking out the fan relays and temperature circuit later.

Regarding the aftermarket fuses - they seem to run somewhere "inside" and seem to be mounted in series with original Fiat wiring. I suspect a former audio installation.

Remove the fuses and see what happens....

Any more.pictures of them?

Ziggy

 

[glaesum]

A small update:

Replacing the relays brought back the power steering motor..

However...

The steering wheel torque sensor seems dead. The power steering system rattles and occasionally shuts off, even from the pressure of putting your hands on the wheel and not turning.

I'll try it again once I've checked the alternator system and battery voltage. If new brushes don't fix it, I'll take the steering column apart.

Various internet sources seem 50/50 on whether one can replace a torque sensor without special tools.

 

[Ziggy122]

A small update:

Replacing the relays brought back the power steering motor..

However...

The steering wheel torque sensor seems dead. The power steering system rattles and occasionally shuts off, even from the pressure of putting your hands on the wheel and not turning.

I'll try it again once I've checked the alternator system and battery voltage. If new brushes don't fix it, I'll take the steering column apart.

Various internet sources seem 50/50 on whether one can replace a torque sensor without special tools.

Get the diagnostic back on it and see what the torque sensor and positon sensor are reporting on a graph as you move it all around

Ziggy

 

[glaesum]

Back again!


I opened up the passenger door card to oil the sticky door mechanism. Penetrating oil got it running smooth again. But while I am in there, I thought I would take a look at the central door lock.


I tested the solenoid with a drill battery and it works fine. However, the wires leading to the solenoid have a resistance of 1.2 Ohms between them (with solenoid disconnected) - I guess somewhere there is a short circuit. The two wires are the +- terminals of the lock motor, correct? Not Open-Close with common ground through the car body?



I checked the wire up to and including the door-body connection - no issue there. The wire continues somewhere under the dashboard console.


Where is the solenoid control unit located?

 

[s and b]

Back again!


I opened up the passenger door card to oil the sticky door mechanism. Penetrating oil got it running smooth again. But while I am in there, I thought I would take a look at the central door lock.


I tested the solenoid with a drill battery and it works fine. However, the wires leading to the solenoid have a resistance of 1.2 Ohms between them (with solenoid disconnected) - I guess somewhere there is a short circuit. The two wires are the +- terminals of the lock motor, correct? Not Open-Close with common ground through the car body?



I checked the wire up to and including the door-body connection - no issue there. The wire continues somewhere under the dashboard console.


Where is the solenoid control unit located?

pretty sure its in the body control module i would reinspect all door to a a post wires as they had a propensity to break and short out

 

[multipete]

I tested the solenoid with a drill battery and it works fine. However, the wires leading to the solenoid have a resistance of 1.2 Ohms between them (with solenoid disconnected) - I guess somewhere there is a short circuit. The two wires are the +- terminals of the lock motor, correct? Not Open-Close with common ground through the car


Where is the solenoid control unit located?[/QUOTE]


I think,as all the door solenoids are linked,your 1.2 ohms reading could be coming from them. To check,unplug the other door plugs and recheck reading. Is it 3dr and does the central locking work from the other door,with the key,or buttons.