Technical Problem with Panda Hiccups!

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Technical Problem with Panda Hiccups!

s5jst

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Hesitation? Would that be a better word to describe it?

Happens in my mk2 Panda Selecta and is down to a aged Lambda sensor which I need to get around to replacing. Could be the same in your Active? Having said that though I get similar in our 04 mk3 if I go to move off and don't give it enough rev's and the revs drop just below idle (but not stall). It's like the car dosen't know whats happening. Oh, I'm below idle speed so I must have stalled? But yet there is still engine output. Then eventually decides to shift once foot has been to the floor for a second or two.

Sound similar?

Jon.


Hy everybody,

I'm new to forum and to pandas, howeverI had 89' Yugo till 3 years ago (pretty much same engine, except electronic ignition) :)

My new 93' 4x4 Panda has a flaw like describen above. The lambda was changed last year so I don't know what else could be wrong with the car. She hops (no matter the weather or engine temp.) whenever I gently press the pedal and also in idle the engine is running irregular (like pre-war diesel).

Can anybody hive some help to this?

Thanks, Mark
 
Just continuing the post above. I wrote that hiccups occur no mather the weather. It is not true. Yesterday was some kind of good weather with zero humidity :) and I didn't get any kick in but when driving. Contrariwise today drive (in rain) was like rodeo.

Can anybody give some hint on how to repair it?

Thanks
 
Hiya Mark. I personally would have suggested Lambda, but if thats been changed already then I don't know what it could be.

I have the same happen with my 1.1 Selecta, again only in the damp, so obviously its not a one off with only your car. I've always been under the assumption that its the Lambda sensor and just never bothered changing it, but I'm beginning to wonder if perhaps its one of the sensors on the throttle body :confused:

Jon.
 
It is always hard to remotely assess an issue like this. If I could experience the problem first hand that would help loads as it is hard to know to what extent it is actually hopping. If it is chronic, then it is more likely to be the MAP sensor or something that causes injection and/or spark to cut "at once" as MEP suggests.
 
Lewey, the best way to describe it is being in 2nd gear, about 15mph, putting your foot fully down to get max acceleration and then lifting the accelerator to half way for a second and then flooring it again.

Would give the exact same feel. Feels worse in the Selecta's as it's a constant acceleration when using kick-down and when the rev's drop you really notice it (not that you don't in the Manuals, but gives the apperance of alot slower acceleration in the Selecta's).

Jon.
 
Probably a different problem but my CLX developed a miss like a plug starting to go or a lead breaking down. Only evident on pulling - worse in lower revs - typical symptom of a miss on one cylinder. On investigating I found the dipstick to be touching no.1 plug - it was that simple. Just swivelled dipstick away from plug cover. It's something I'll look out for when checking oil level in future. But there is a big diff. between running on 3 missing and hiccuping as with LT and fuel starvation when it 'jumps'. But sometimes it's too easy to overlook the obvious.
 
Probably a different problem but my CLX developed a miss like a plug starting to go or a lead breaking down. Only evident on pulling - worse in lower revs - typical symptom of a miss on one cylinder. On investigating I found the dipstick to be touching no.1 plug - it was that simple. Just swivelled dipstick away from plug cover. It's something I'll look out for when checking oil level in future. But there is a big diff. between running on 3 missing and hiccuping as with LT and fuel starvation when it 'jumps'. But sometimes it's too easy to overlook the obvious.

Interesting, I'll bear that in mind when doing oil checks in future (y)

Unfortunatly not that in my case with the Selecta though.
 
Been few day away...
Interesting, i'll check all the replays, however TB is clean as it looks from above. Don't know how good cables and plugs are so this is going to be some kind of adventure exploring the condition under the bonnet :) :)

When checking the TB I also found that "cable connector" which operates TB "hangs in air" when in idle - betwen two end points of its travel line.

Sorry, hard to explain...somebody (me :rolleyes:) drained camera cells :bang:. Will repay with photos till tommorow :D.
 
Just sending the photo: detail of throtle connector bit.
Is this normal that both parts don't meat when in idle or turned off?


Another source of hiccups could also be the idle speed. I noticed that car has some troubles holding idle - it is quite irregular. Some guy said to me that some stepper motor on throttle can stick :confused: When inspecting the engine I couldn't find any stepper or even screw for triming the idle (except those on photo). Any idea?
 

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My suggestion with this new evidence is that this has been rigged to allow the car to run and mask the problem a little bit. Perhaps that guy was right when he guessed that the idle control valve had stuck. In this case, it looks like it is stuck closed.

To help you find it, I am re-using Jangcy's picture from earlier this year where the idle control valve is marked as "stepper engine".
 

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Lewey I will definitely check what is wrong with throttle. Thanks for photo.

With dad we are going to change brakes and hope there will be some time for valve :D
 
Hi,
there is some new information about my panda hyccups. Looks like (when some hammering with screwdrive was applied) that they stoped however "diesel" idling is still present. When engine starts the revs are normal and if I apply some throttle they jump close to 1500 rpm and stay there. I suspect potentiometer and stepper so how can be they removed and cleaned?


Because I am still without manuals (waiting for paypal) I can't find idle and mixture regulator :) :) (sounds great does not?) :D. Can anyone help with photo, haynes scan, anything?


Thanks
 
After yesterday's smuggling around car there is some baaaddd info. It is about idle servo (n) so if admin think that the quote should go on in "Idle problems" then it is free to move.

What I figured so far (Manuals are still somewhere on royal mail :cry:) is that the main problem with high revs is not in but on carb.
I removed the idle servo and opened it. The thing is build very simple for the price of new one (210€ :bang:). Anyway I discovered that the servo drives OK (forw/back) but I noticed that just one pair of connector contact is working. I measured the resistance on all four contacts and it seems that the second pair is dead. Is this right?
I didn't measure the car connector because I don't know if it is safe -> I am not keen on flashing under bonnet :D

If you look pictures there are two circles. The green one is servo...this expensive thing was removed and checked. Two connectors are dead, two aren't (I drove the servo by changing the polarity on the "healthy" pair). Why are the "dead" connectors for I don't know.

The red circle and arrow stands for "Does anybody know what is this and how it works?"

OK, this is only one part of problem. The other part is the understanding of the first part :eek:. When I put back the servo and turned the ignition on it stucks in the half open position (see the pic) also after the 10min driving.

So pals where do you think the solution is? In dead cables, dead contacts, Bosch unit, red circled part,...?


BTW sorry for novel length of the post :D
 

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