Has anyone installed a power outlet (cigarette lighter) in their 500L? I would like to know where you tapped the power from? Grateful for any pictures and detailed description.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Technical Power outlet (socket)
- Thread starter Fiat201
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Technical Power outlet (socket)
I did it as a rush job last year, to power my sat-nav and dash-cam before my 500 mile rally, ill thought-out but still working.
I spliced into a fairly randomly-chosen, fused supply from the ignition switch, ie. one other than the main red supply cable and used the earthing point on the petrol sender, using a Scotchlok.
The cables enter through an existing grommeted hole in the bulkhead...I can't remember which one, and I planned to make bracket similar to the one with the washer-button, so I could mount it neatly.
Because I have had an occasional blown fuse when wipers and the socket are being used and as all the fuses are the same amperage, I am planning to work out which of the switched-supply fuses carries the least load and to rewire via a spade connector. I will also replace the lighter socket with twin USB sockets.
I spliced into a fairly randomly-chosen, fused supply from the ignition switch, ie. one other than the main red supply cable and used the earthing point on the petrol sender, using a Scotchlok.
The cables enter through an existing grommeted hole in the bulkhead...I can't remember which one, and I planned to make bracket similar to the one with the washer-button, so I could mount it neatly.
Because I have had an occasional blown fuse when wipers and the socket are being used and as all the fuses are the same amperage, I am planning to work out which of the switched-supply fuses carries the least load and to rewire via a spade connector. I will also replace the lighter socket with twin USB sockets.
AndrewHarvey
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I removed my central mounted keyswitch and in the hole installed a USB charger outlet
Took feed from ignition side of fuse box
Took feed from ignition side of fuse box
Thank you for the information.
Not much to show really.
MAL_5967 by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
This was meant to be temporary...the brown cable is my supply feed to the socket. In this case it is from the fused supply to the wiper switch, ie. permanently live when the ignition is on.
MAL_5968 by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
I have used the grommeted hole where the washer pipes enter the car to take the cable inside. The earth is by a round terminal to the fuel tank stud where there is already an earthing point.
MAL_5967 by Peter Thompson, on FlickrThis was meant to be temporary...the brown cable is my supply feed to the socket. In this case it is from the fused supply to the wiper switch, ie. permanently live when the ignition is on.
MAL_5968 by Peter Thompson, on FlickrI have used the grommeted hole where the washer pipes enter the car to take the cable inside. The earth is by a round terminal to the fuel tank stud where there is already an earthing point.
AndrewHarvey
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Not wanting to cause offence but Scotchlock connectors are a really poor method of connecting wiring and the cause of many electrical fires and electrical woes
They do not create a reliable tension - and the joint is liable to work loose
I recommend a British Standard ratchet crimping tool or a soldered joint with heat shrink to complete the job
They do not create a reliable tension - and the joint is liable to work loose
I recommend a British Standard ratchet crimping tool or a soldered joint with heat shrink to complete the job
Good advice Andrew and no offence taken.
Fiat201 asked me how I did it, so there it is.
I had added the caveat as said before:
"I did it as a rush job last year, to power my sat-nav and dash-cam before my 500 mile rally, ill thought-out but still working.":devil:
I usually solder all spade connections etc., for reasons of reliability, not even particularly liking crimped ones, and a time will come when I will sort this out better.
I would advise Fiat201 to get it right first time as we all know what happens to temporary bodges.Thank you both. Appreciate your comments and I agree with your sentiments to do this the correct way.
Low on my "to-do" list was to make a safe and permanent fitting to the socket.
I made a simple bracket from an offcut of sheet-steel, made a 29mm hole in it, drilled a 6mm mounting hole and painted it satin-black.
MAL_0977 by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
It is secured through the left-hand shelf stud and nut , which also provides an earthing point. It still have to get some solder-on spade terminals and I will connect it to one of the spare, switched spade-terminals at the fuse-box.
It looks reasonably inconspicuous and is easily removed.
MAL_0982 by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
I made a simple bracket from an offcut of sheet-steel, made a 29mm hole in it, drilled a 6mm mounting hole and painted it satin-black.
MAL_0977 by Peter Thompson, on FlickrIt is secured through the left-hand shelf stud and nut , which also provides an earthing point. It still have to get some solder-on spade terminals and I will connect it to one of the spare, switched spade-terminals at the fuse-box.
It looks reasonably inconspicuous and is easily removed.
MAL_0982 by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
IanEmery
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Nice one, Peter, and a simple little project for anyone needing to use a Satnav, etc.
Ian
Ian
If the OP wants a permanent live feed to his cig. lighter/power outlet (socket) e.g. to power/recharge some device without the ignition having to be switched on, he could also connect into the live feed to the interior light, might make it easier to run wires/cables. If done this way a battery tender can be plugged into the new cig. lighter to maintain the battery charge instead of having to open the front boot/trunk to access the battery terminals.
Don't forget there are also power outlet sockets, often with covers fitted, in the boot/trunk on many modern cars as an alternative to using a cigarette lighter.
Some of the older more expensive Fiats had a power outlet socket iirc just under the lower edge of the dashboard, but I can't remember what the corresponding plug looked like.
Al.
Don't forget there are also power outlet sockets, often with covers fitted, in the boot/trunk on many modern cars as an alternative to using a cigarette lighter.
Some of the older more expensive Fiats had a power outlet socket iirc just under the lower edge of the dashboard, but I can't remember what the corresponding plug looked like.
Al.
If you decide to use crimped-on terminals, there are 'piggyback' female Lucar terminals available. This means that the chosen live feed source wire can be removed from it's terminal and attached to the piggyback terminal (which is on the end of the new wire feeding the cigarette lighter socket) and the piggyback terminal re-attached to the original terminal. Doing it this way allows everything to be returned to standard as none of the original wiring/terminals have been altered.
Al.
After a bit more thought I worked this one out.
For the power supply I didn't want to overload an existing fuse so bought an inline fuse connector which most people will be familiar with.It comes already factory fitted with a male spade at one end and a female at the other.
MAL_0995 by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
I didn't want a permanent feed to the socket so that there was never a risk of draining the battery. So I checked and found that fuseway No. 2 has a live feed when the ignition is turned on. One side of the fuse has two terminals, so I made sure that the ignition supply, which is a twin blue cable in my case, was fitted to one of the paired terminals. This means that when I connected my new fuseholder to the other terminal, the current draw is independent of the original fuse.
MAL_1000 by Peter Thompson, on Flickr
From the fuseholder I needed to extend only a very short cable, which has soldered and heat-shrink covered terminals, through the main loom grommet to meet the power socket in the glovebox.
So now its secure, safe and convenient.
Note the corrosion already around the terminals. This is the original fusebox but it was really clean when I first re-commissioned the car.
For the power supply I didn't want to overload an existing fuse so bought an inline fuse connector which most people will be familiar with.It comes already factory fitted with a male spade at one end and a female at the other.
MAL_0995 by Peter Thompson, on FlickrI didn't want a permanent feed to the socket so that there was never a risk of draining the battery. So I checked and found that fuseway No. 2 has a live feed when the ignition is turned on. One side of the fuse has two terminals, so I made sure that the ignition supply, which is a twin blue cable in my case, was fitted to one of the paired terminals. This means that when I connected my new fuseholder to the other terminal, the current draw is independent of the original fuse.
MAL_1000 by Peter Thompson, on FlickrFrom the fuseholder I needed to extend only a very short cable, which has soldered and heat-shrink covered terminals, through the main loom grommet to meet the power socket in the glovebox.
So now its secure, safe and convenient.
Note the corrosion already around the terminals. This is the original fusebox but it was really clean when I first re-commissioned the car.
AndrewHarvey
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They make a coating for electrical contacts to prevent exactly whats happened
I know and I put some between the contacting surfaces, but it costs about £4 million per kilogramme from Maplin, and although I know it will be available elsewhere, the electrics on my car have been very reliable so far......
The close-up and bright sunshine don't do it any favours; a bit like my face.
I used to use a product made for lawnmowers, which was ugly black grease that skinned over, but there's a limit even to my patination approval.
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AndrewHarvey
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Well maybe I was exaggerating...that product only works out at around £250 per kilogram, and then there's postage.
I can see that you're an electrical whizz Andrew, and Tony's an electrician by trade, but Tony came up with the better price.
Anyway, the socket works well, and since the USB adaptor has a lovely blue LED, I can see it working in the dark....such fun!
AndrewHarvey
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Sure the wet and dry cleans them up.....the grease stops it happening......
These type of fuse boxes are synonymous with conductivity issues where things just stop working...give 'em a wiggle and they work again type of issues.
This will stop these problems as the terminals cannot corrode
These type of fuse boxes are synonymous with conductivity issues where things just stop working...give 'em a wiggle and they work again type of issues.
This will stop these problems as the terminals cannot corrode
