Technical Potentiometer

[Chopin]

Hi Guys. This seems to be an 'Area 51' type discussion point as I have a few zero reply threads. However maybe someone has new input.. After a 2 month period where I experienced increasing throttle response failure which gave no CEL or codes and required a restart to clear I replaced the pedal (admittedly 2nd hand off a very low mileage write off) with total success. From getting the problem showing on every outing it stopped completely - Now after 3 weeks fully responsive motoring - I am back to hitting limp mode on every second outing or so. No CEL and no codes (and yes both CEL and OBD2 meter work as a forced an error to check by removing pedal connector with ign on) - Going to put some contact cleaner through the pedal just now as I am out of ideas.. Cannot find an online method of checking the pedal that doesn't involve laboratory conditions.... Thanks

 

[GrandePunto PL]

0. Bad wiring, plugs/sockets. Bad ground, power, signals.
1. Basic cheap Multimeter (resistance check) will do the trick.
2. Audio. You put audio signal (headphones) via potentiometer and listen to noises etc. If you even don't own multimeter.

Basic checks require basic tools (multimeter, soldering iron), not "laboratory" equipment.

 

[Chopin]

Thanks GP - Internet search suggested voltage input required to test and quoted decimals of voltages as readings etc - however as you point out it is a simple gadget easily tested as have done. The problem is probably a tiny break in the wipe circuit and having just cleaned the two I have, one is a 2 out of 10 and the other is working fine since cleaning but I suspect and 8 or 9 score. At least having both behaving differently confirms the pedal is the problem and decided will order new after this email as the newer of the two shows some scoring - Audio a good idea I will file away...

 

[Smeagol]

Recently had this on my sons 500 (hand me down from me at 140k ) changed the throttle pedal for an eBay one, was good for a while but then started doing it again.
Originally I’d looked at the live data and you could see the difference between the two channels on the pedal and when the eml lit up the difference was rather large. But after a few weeks with the new pedal it started occasionally to do it again. Recommended changing again for a better make one.
Eventually he bought another one and fitted it. No further issues. But around the same time his battery failed to the point of no start and one jumped, no charging and no steering. After it was replaced he reported it was smoother running ( first time he’d mentioned it to me)
So get the best pedal you can, don’t bother second hand or cheap, you can monitor the two outputs in MES but you’ll need an analogue meter to really see smooth resistance changes but 2 to read both channels and consider a new battery, but his was 10 years old.

 

[Smeagol]

Oh and the side cover un clips from the pedal so you can see the wear on the resistor wipers

 

[Chopin]

Oh and the side cover un clips from the pedal so you can see the wear on the resistor wipers

Thanks for sharing your experience- I have had both pedals exposed for cleaning and as you did I have a new on order - not OEM but not cheap - we shall see. Battery replaced recently as the car stopped using the Start Stop facility (which I usually have off) but was told if battery at all suspect this occurs- new battery solved the issue - but then again it was really not an issue - still do not use SS..