I know its a bit of a "How long is a piece of string?" question but my 2005 (early?) Panda Multijet with almost 120k miles on the clock has started slipping the clutch (presumably- as revs rise when turbo kicks in without any effect on speed etc )It pretty much has to be 'forced' to do this and is fine for general driving .Anyone who has had trouble with their Panda Multijet's clutches estimate how long before I need to replace it and/or driving becomes akward /impossible?(Car has been very well looked after )
General Panda Multijet Clutch Slip.How Long Will It Last?
- Thread starter ytareh
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General Panda Multijet Clutch Slip.How Long Will It Last?
It really depends on your driving. I assume that the car is standard ie no chip to increase torque/power etc.
Max engine torque is quoted at 1500 rpm which seems a bit low to me, but I would be very careful on the throttle up to at least 2500 rpm. I rarely go over 2500 rpm though.
From a standing, start off with very low revs to reduce clutch slip.
If you need to get up a steep hill keep it in a low gear.
My mates diesel Peugeot started to slip at low revs and high throttle and he avoided that combination and it lasted for years.
Don't let it slip for more than a second or two or it will go very quickly.
Best of luck
Max engine torque is quoted at 1500 rpm which seems a bit low to me, but I would be very careful on the throttle up to at least 2500 rpm. I rarely go over 2500 rpm though.
From a standing, start off with very low revs to reduce clutch slip.
If you need to get up a steep hill keep it in a low gear.
My mates diesel Peugeot started to slip at low revs and high throttle and he avoided that combination and it lasted for years.
Don't let it slip for more than a second or two or it will go very quickly.
Best of luck
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I got about two months out of mine from first noticing to going up big hills being somewhat awkward. Mine went at 77k or thereabouts. When I removed the clutch there was actually a decent amount of centre plate left. I had no oil leak or contamination but although the centre plate looked reasonable it wasn't working.
If the car is being very well looked after then just change the clutch, it's clearly overdue.
When the clutch went on my MJ in July 2011, it had been screeching little bit on pushing in the pedal, but not slipping excessively. Then, it just failed completely and suddenly. The thrust bearing had failed, at 119k miles.
RAC took me to a garage who did the whole job for £250. Fiat wanted over £400, but then it would have been OE, with a 2 year warranty; I only got 1 year. However, I've had no problems in 30k miles since.
RAC took me to a garage who did the whole job for £250. Fiat wanted over £400, but then it would have been OE, with a 2 year warranty; I only got 1 year. However, I've had no problems in 30k miles since.
We have had ours since new in 2007 and once run in started to notice that slip could be induced under the conditions you describe, thought it was very slightly worse around 30,000 miles then just decided to wait until it got in the way of normal driving/towing (2 motorcycles on trailer) now it well in the 70,000`s and it is no worse, I can make it do it if I try but I am fairly easy on the car, I would wait until it becomes a problem under normal driving...which could be a long time!
It did get worse before it " healed itself"!
Might have been contamination which has burnt itself off 
BJ20
New member
Funnily enough, we've also got an early '05 MJ and it's clutch has been 'acting up' this past three years. We've got just 250,000 Kms on it (about 155,000 miles).
It really only happens when trying to overtake when on the lower verge of the speed band in 5th, i.e., it's telling us to change down.
There were seven of us driving it at one point, four of them learned to drive in it also! We also tow a small trailer - lots and lots of turf from the bog so no wonder it is complaining
I note that yours has stopped slipping now - ours would go for months with nothing untoward then if I'm not careful, try to overtake at lowish speed in 5th, it will spin.
So in a nutshell, it will last for ages and ages (how's that for a precise answer?) with a small bit of TLC
My next concern is the MOT (NCT here in Ireland) - almost afraid what will be required when I go to the mechanic on Monday
Be safe out there.
BJ20
Yup,months later its hanging in there,occassional slip but thats it after a pretty dodgy week or so .Moral of story DONT change yer Multijet clutch at first hint of slippage !NCT (irish MOT) here soon too-How did you get on?
Interestingly Id SWEAR my last oil change (or maybe the 'flush' beforehand !) has 'loosened up a 'sticky' turbo.My performance is up and fuel economy down .Gone from 65-75mpg to 72-82mpg!!!(And normally computer is VERY accura
te !
Interestingly Id SWEAR my last oil change (or maybe the 'flush' beforehand !) has 'loosened up a 'sticky' turbo.My performance is up and fuel economy down .Gone from 65-75mpg to 72-82mpg!!!(And normally computer is VERY accura
te !
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I'd say it's impossible to predict how long a clutch will last once you've first noticed it slipping.
I've had one car which was still going strong when I sold it two years later, and another which only just made it to the next exit of the M25.
So perhaps the best advice is to wait & see - and make sure your breakdown membership is up to date!
I've had one car which was still going strong when I sold it two years later, and another which only just made it to the next exit of the M25.
So perhaps the best advice is to wait & see - and make sure your breakdown membership is up to date!
Well this Panda Multijet Diesel has served me loyally now for coming round on two and a half years as an 80 mile round trip daily driver without a hiccup.135k now on clock miles -was private purchase (2200 euro)at high 80k ish. Roads here in Republic of Ireland are far 'harder' on cars .The ' slipping clutch ' still makes the odd appearance (once or twice a month at random?) but seems an inherent 'design flaw' mainly notice it when driving hard up short steep hills . NCT/MOT work was pricey though .I got two shocks and two wishbones and including fitting they didnt leave me much change from 500 euro-got brake pads also .I got them from Shop4parts and was delighted with service .
Today was icy so I was taking it extra easy and I managed to crack an indicated 90mpg for the 40 mile trip to work .My highest ever daily 'out and back' average was mid 80s mpg and Ive also come close to this for a weekly figure .On comparing the 'pump mpg it was more like 74-76mpg .I average around mid 70s mpg .I had a Toyota Aygo which is CLAIMED to be similarly frugal and got 52-54mpg most of the time .Ive realised however that the secret to high mpg is (wait for it !) drive slower!(Although lorries on the motorway can play their part also)
I had a minor/moderate crash in the Multijet also .Aquaplaning in heavy flooding .Apparently small diesels are prone to oversteering badly /letting go from the back in these conditions and it totally took me by surprise ( 20 years driving experience).The damage wasnt bad at all -only front bumper and radiator needed to be replaced .I felt very lucky and the car seemed VERY safe/solid-but then I just hit a small ish clay 'mound' .
Drivers seat bolster is in poor shape ,red paint has faded badly and cant be buffed as its 'under the lacquer' .Was a UK car imported by lady owner.Change oil every 5k miles .
This could be the longest ownership duration of any car Ive had at this rate (swapped Aygo after three years for 100hp which I couldnt recommend as a daily long distance driver over bad/mixed roads averaging 37-43mpg)No plans to replace it .
By the way mine is an early/mid 2005 which I think means it has no DPF diesel particulate filter which gives some issues especially on short runs .
Today was icy so I was taking it extra easy and I managed to crack an indicated 90mpg for the 40 mile trip to work .My highest ever daily 'out and back' average was mid 80s mpg and Ive also come close to this for a weekly figure .On comparing the 'pump mpg it was more like 74-76mpg .I average around mid 70s mpg .I had a Toyota Aygo which is CLAIMED to be similarly frugal and got 52-54mpg most of the time .Ive realised however that the secret to high mpg is (wait for it !) drive slower!(Although lorries on the motorway can play their part also)
I had a minor/moderate crash in the Multijet also .Aquaplaning in heavy flooding .Apparently small diesels are prone to oversteering badly /letting go from the back in these conditions and it totally took me by surprise ( 20 years driving experience).The damage wasnt bad at all -only front bumper and radiator needed to be replaced .I felt very lucky and the car seemed VERY safe/solid-but then I just hit a small ish clay 'mound' .
Drivers seat bolster is in poor shape ,red paint has faded badly and cant be buffed as its 'under the lacquer' .Was a UK car imported by lady owner.Change oil every 5k miles .
This could be the longest ownership duration of any car Ive had at this rate (swapped Aygo after three years for 100hp which I couldnt recommend as a daily long distance driver over bad/mixed roads averaging 37-43mpg)No plans to replace it .
By the way mine is an early/mid 2005 which I think means it has no DPF diesel particulate filter which gives some issues especially on short runs .
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Trimdoner
Member
My apologies for joining this thread late - just noticed it!
My MJ started to slip its clutch at about 40k, when I first fitted a tuning box, and would slip if accelerating hard in 3rd/4th. As the main reason for the tuning box was mpg improvement (it did) I simply avoid thrashing it in lower gears, and the clutch is still 'as normal' at 85k.
Never slips in 5th even at full throttle, only seems to affect lower gears/higher revs.
My MJ started to slip its clutch at about 40k, when I first fitted a tuning box, and would slip if accelerating hard in 3rd/4th. As the main reason for the tuning box was mpg improvement (it did) I simply avoid thrashing it in lower gears, and the clutch is still 'as normal' at 85k.
Never slips in 5th even at full throttle, only seems to affect lower gears/higher revs.
Question for Trimdoner, Did you calculate the mpg by the fuel you bought and distance driven or just use the dashboard display?
I believe that the magic tuning boxes work by putting more fuel into the engine while the engine ECU still thinks it puts the normal amount of fuel in.
Hence the dashboard computer gives a high mpg.
The suppliers normally give a big sell on their engineering abilities but generally I do not believe them and all they do is over-inject fuel and cause smoke and pollution. Can you tell I'm not a fan of magic boxes ?
I believe that the magic tuning boxes work by putting more fuel into the engine while the engine ECU still thinks it puts the normal amount of fuel in.
Hence the dashboard computer gives a high mpg.
The suppliers normally give a big sell on their engineering abilities but generally I do not believe them and all they do is over-inject fuel and cause smoke and pollution. Can you tell I'm not a fan of magic boxes ?
Trimdoner
Member
Some of my earliest posts on this forum were regarding what I considered very poor fuel consumption (amongst other problems) which our MJ suffered in its early life - bought new.
Being accustomed to recording running costs for our previous business vehicles, I calculated mpg using Excel - miles recorded/litres fuel added over an extended mileage. Trip computer usually was optimistic by several mpg. I only stopped recording data about 18 months ago. It was just for my eyes anyway
The tuning box (a Xmas pressie - about £60 of eBay IIRC) was fitted after a conversation with a relative who had two MJ's, both fitted with chips and returning far in excess of what I could achieve. And yes, they do simply overfuel
Performance was noticeably better immediately, but with same manner of driving as before, mpg was much improved. Summer mpg went from average mid 50's to high 60's/occasional low 70's. Winter was always very low 50's, this went up to low 60's.
Possibly our MJ was just very badly set up from new (and dealers weren't interested) and the overfuelling box simply restored the engine to a more efficient state of tune?
Being accustomed to recording running costs for our previous business vehicles, I calculated mpg using Excel - miles recorded/litres fuel added over an extended mileage. Trip computer usually was optimistic by several mpg. I only stopped recording data about 18 months ago. It was just for my eyes anyway
The tuning box (a Xmas pressie - about £60 of eBay IIRC) was fitted after a conversation with a relative who had two MJ's, both fitted with chips and returning far in excess of what I could achieve. And yes, they do simply overfuel
Performance was noticeably better immediately, but with same manner of driving as before, mpg was much improved. Summer mpg went from average mid 50's to high 60's/occasional low 70's. Winter was always very low 50's, this went up to low 60's.
Possibly our MJ was just very badly set up from new (and dealers weren't interested) and the overfuelling box simply restored the engine to a more efficient state of tune?
MountainRunner
Member
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Possibly a defect in the friction material. Once the slipping bit wore off you reached a more resistant tough layer.
Trimdoner
Member
Just an update (see my post from 14-01-14 in this thread):
Now 96K and the slightly slipping clutch is still exactly the same........
I'm hoping to see at least 100K before it starts to slip in earnest
Now 96K and the slightly slipping clutch is still exactly the same........
I'm hoping to see at least 100K before it starts to slip in earnest
