Communicator
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Sorry, I got that bit wrong. I should have checked the diagram. On the Sargent system, power for the step buzzer, step relay, and auto retraction are taken from the fridge 12V element supply, which is controlled by the D+ signal, and hence is only live when the engine is running. This also affects my idea about the step trying to retract.According to the diagrams, there should be a red wire from the starter battery positive, to maxi fuse, brown to 4 way block fuse 4, and brown/green thereafter. So converter has not adhered to diagram. You have brown/green wires leaving the 4 way block that are live at 12V,, but 12V is not present on brown/green?? wire at stap switch. (Please confirm that brown/green wire arrives at step switch, as in diagrams.
You also had partly melted fuse holders. How do the wire(s) get from the 4 way block to control panel, and step switch. How many brown/green wires are connected to the load side of fuse 4, one or two?
At this stage you have to consider the possibility of damaged wires, either trapped inside the vehicle, or abraded underneath the vehicle.
It is possible but not certain that your loss of starter battery voltage reading at the control panel is due to a resistive fault. Meter reads OK with no load. but if the step is trying to auto retract with buzzer sounding, then the voltage could collapse. (The step buzzer is powered from D+ in parallel with the step relay.)
If there is a problem with the maxi fuse holder then It would probably have signs of overheating.
I am trying to save your wallet from excessive expenditure. As requested, can you confirm that a brown/green wire arrives at the step switch?
How many similar brown/green wires are connected to the ouput side of fuse 4 on the 4 way block?
I ask because I am trying to understand where the wires join together.