Technical Okay clever chaps. 1.9 Turbo Multijet Doblo Van Head removal.

[Falcon_II]

Stuck. got most of the stuff i can reach off the engine.

Turbo is attached to the exhaust.Exhaust is attatchedto a pipe with a pipe forthe egr. got the egr off.the pipe bolts are undone. but they cover the last bolt for the pump. cant take the boltout unless i move the egr pipe. cant remove the egr pipe becuase the pump has a alloy t pice out of the bottom covering the egr pipe.

STUCK. Any ideas.

Also do how do i remove the high pressure injector rail. its covering the bolts for the inlet and the bolts for the injector rail appear to be under the inlet manifold.

cant seem to reach the back of the high pressure pump without removing the inlet cant get to the inlet side of the high pressure rail without removing the inlet. cant get the inlet manifold off because the bolts are behind the high pressure pump. must have to remove the pump to remove the head.


:bang::nutter:

 

[Falcon_II]

Well now....

Managed to get the head off by bending the egr pipe out of the way then fitting a ring spanner onto the thermostat housing bolt then removed the main feed line for the fuel pump to the injector rail.

Lifted the head off with the lot attached.

Now the reason for this strip down was a snapped timing belt.

So head off the valve number one is stuck down slightly so tapit and pop it jumps up perfectly in place. remove the valve seats and the valve moves freely without any rubbing and has a great seal. no air getting through.

looked closer at the hat tappets and they all have fractures in them. the cotter pin on the cam shaft has snapped off the pulley so this no longer has a locator.

so conclusion. the reason the valve is stuck is because the lifter has deformed making the top a tiny micron wider and not round. This means when it goes down it gets stuck.

I tried a timing belt. "cheap as chips one" to see if the engine would rotate and clash with the valves and it would stop no matter where i set the timing. this is because the cam pully was in the incorrect place. so the valves were opening too early. the reason one valve was not closing was because the hydraulic lifter was screwed.

Number one has fractures and is deformed number two has slight fractures not deformed number three is fine looking but has got a slight rise on the inside. number four is the same. number five has fractures and six but not as bad as one or two and number seven has no marks at all and number eight is cracked nearly as bad as one.

These are £7.50 each my price. so replace the lot. Head set inc gasket is £68 Timing belt to be found out but was quoted about £100 ish including tensioners and a good make belt.

Pistons seem to be moving perfectly and there is no visible damage to them.

So after reading loads of forums to find out timing after a belt snapped and them saying the belts gone. throw the engine away and get a new one. Its actually worth looking at the engine. yes it will cost more then just swapping the engine but its better to have an engine you know has been well served apart from the timing belt. then to have an unknown one that will still need the belt and water pump changed. (Customers car not mine).

Note as a mechanic I haven't even sorted my fronteras engine out which loses water and oil and over heats if you dont rev it to force the water through the thermostat. It also throws all the water out the radiator if you rev it with the cap off. Think my v6 3.2 Might need the head gasket done. and the belt is about 20k over its change date. Hmmmm Think I might have to get that sorted soonish.

:slayer:

 

[MrDerv]

I think i remember reading somewhere (probably from my vauxhall days), there's sacrificial parts (rockers if i remember rightly) in the head to leave the engine in a workable state should a belt snap. The idea being that you replace the cheaper bits in the valvetrain, rather than howking out the engine for a complete rebuild/replacement.

 

[pj1985]

I don't know if the 1.9 multijet is similar to the 1.3 multijet or not but I know the idea (by design or pot luck I am not sure) is that the valves are vertical in position rather than angled in the head, therefore should piston meet valves during timing failure, the valve is pushed directly up and the rockers are then the weak point and snap/ fracture. Far easier to replace than valves as the head doesnt need to come off.

It seems that a lot of people with the 1.3 MJ have got away lightly (myself included) during the dreaded chain failure because of this.

 

[Falcon_II]

Now i wish someone had that posted somewhere under timing belt snapped. It would have saved me a whole heap of bother. The first valve cap was stuck down so i assumed the valve stem was bent. It was just the cap was warped. I could have left the engine where it was and changed the caps and the cam pulley and that would have been that. My customer / mate would have been much happier with a £200 parts bill for timing and caps then £300 including the gaskets etc. And the extra labour time.

Never mind. Glow plugs need sorting anyway.