General Oil vacuum pump
- Thread starter Edgie70
- Start date
Currently reading:
General Oil vacuum pump
The benefit of draining form the plug is that it takes any sludge or larger particles away with it.
A pump through the dipstick hole may not reach the lowest part of the sump, so leaving some old oil behind, as well as any goo. Although this is better than not changing the oil.
The best solution would be to get a new sump plug.
A pump through the dipstick hole may not reach the lowest part of the sump, so leaving some old oil behind, as well as any goo. Although this is better than not changing the oil.
The best solution would be to get a new sump plug.
Hot is best as the oil is more fluid, so you'll get more of it out, with less muck left behind.
At some time you need to think about replacing the sump.
At some time you need to think about replacing the sump.
Hi,
There is no need to chhange the sump. You can get a repair kit for about £15. They comprise a tap and oversize plug. Some kits are intended for garages and cover a range of sizes with lots of plug but some are single size. For example Sealy make single size kits. You could also use a helicoil type repair. This keeps the original plug size and is more commonly used on alloy sumps as it is stronger than the original.
I don't like the vacuum oil extraction systems, it is easier for heavy cotaination to drain out under gravity than to suck it up a foot or more of pipe.
You could also ask garage for the cost of a sump repair and oil change.
Robert G8RPI.
There is no need to chhange the sump. You can get a repair kit for about £15. They comprise a tap and oversize plug. Some kits are intended for garages and cover a range of sizes with lots of plug but some are single size. For example Sealy make single size kits. You could also use a helicoil type repair. This keeps the original plug size and is more commonly used on alloy sumps as it is stronger than the original.
I don't like the vacuum oil extraction systems, it is easier for heavy cotaination to drain out under gravity than to suck it up a foot or more of pipe.
You could also ask garage for the cost of a sump repair and oil change.
Robert G8RPI.
cmosfxx
Established member
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2012
- Messages
- 1,365
- Points
- 263
Hi,
If it is helicoiled and sealed with a Dowty washer you should have no problem getting it to seal again even if it's not perfectly square. It would be worth having a spare Dowty washer on hand. If you you want to have a better repair you could get a thick washer and file it to the same angle as the thread is off-square. You can then stick this to the sump (rotated to the correct position of course) with epoxy (with the filed side to the sump, use a greased sunp plug hand tightened to hold it in place while the epoxy sets). I don't think it's worth the bother though. One of the oversize plug kits might also recover it but you would have to remove the helicoil and it would be very hard to keep the tap square in a already bodged repair.
Robert G8RPI
I always use a pump. I find on a lot of engines it will actually remove more oil than just draining.oil needs to be warm otherwise it won't suck out. On my C5 I can suck out the filter housing as well which you won't clear with draining. Great bit of kit. Used on boats lawnmowers mini digger etc. Hopefully never take out a sump plug again
How do you know it will remove more oil than draining?
While I accept that it may be useful in emptying cup type holders for bare elements on some modern engines I can't see how a tube down a dipstick hole can reach any oil that won't drain out of the sump plug. The dipstick only has to reach the top 20-30mm of the oil so on some engines you can't gaet to the bottom of the sump. This is particuarly ture if a baffle plate is fitted to the sump. There is no need for a hole through the baffle for the dipstick.
Robert G8RPI.
Err, no,
That just means there is more fluid in the sump than the oilchange amount. It certainly does not mean the sump is empty or that a normal gravity drain would not remove more oil. There are several reasons why an engine may have more than the change amount. Most people don't measure the oil level or quantity added accurately. On some modern diesel engines with DPFs the oil leel will go up due to diesel fuel entering the sump during regereration of the DPF.
Also vacuum sysems are not good at removeing heavy particulate contamination.
Robert G8RPI.
interesting;:chin:
I'm intrigued.,
so if you do an oil and filter change with the sump plug out, and finishes dripping.
then refill an amount ( say 4.5 litres) run engine briefly - to completely fill the filter.
then at some point later use the pump to drain out the systems oil..
how much MORE does the pump remove..??
a percentage / or ml figure would be helpful.
thanks,
Charlie
%or ml!!!! I have never measured waste oil, It is merely an observation that on several engines I have drained it will remove in excess of what is listed as the amount of oil, Who TF measures waste oil or bothers to go to the hassle of working out %s? I merely look at the graduated scale on the pump and in a lot of cases it exceeds the usual figure! The other visual thing often present is the cleanliness of the oil post change, Even after a run it seems cleaner which leads me to believe a more thorough change has been possible. As I said these are observations I don't go to the bother of measuring to the ml! It's handy to suck out oil in the head which won't drain down either. Not everyone has a perfect level shop floor to park on to do an oil change. To satisfy the pedants the next time I am doing it I will use the pump then open the drain plug, Can't guarantee I'll measure it to the ml or work it out as a % though!
sometimes - normally with a new design of engine - I'll see the manufacturers quoted oil capacity,
and once it's "fully drained" I'll go to the trouble of slowly refilling with measured quantities of new oil, ( to the MAX mark on an essentially level driveway)
the figure is usually @10% less than the manufacturers figure..leading to the assumption that there is a reasonable volume of oil "trapped".
this is why I'd like a comparison with a pump..to see if it somehow gets more of the TOTAL capacity out.
Charlie
and once it's "fully drained" I'll go to the trouble of slowly refilling with measured quantities of new oil, ( to the MAX mark on an essentially level driveway)
the figure is usually @10% less than the manufacturers figure..leading to the assumption that there is a reasonable volume of oil "trapped".
this is why I'd like a comparison with a pump..to see if it somehow gets more of the TOTAL capacity out.
Charlie
Last edited:
The sump plug is usually situated at the lowest part of the sump, although there might be a little trapped behind the internal boss of the plug. A pump through the dipstick hole will only remove what is in the sump, and only get the same amount as removing the plug if the tube can get to the lowest part of the sump. The dipstick is rarely above the lowest part of the sump, so getting the pipe low will involve a bit of luck.
There will be some oil 'trapped' in oilways and the cylinder head, which is why the book will usually give two figures, the total capacity, and the oil & filter change capacity. I think the only way to get more out than from the sump plug would be to remove the cam cover and mop out all the trapped oil, then try to vacuum out the oilways.
The oil has a job to do to carry any soot and particles around and deposit it into the filter. Some heavier stuff may collect in the bottom of the sump, where draining is likely to be more successful than pumping. If the oil is regularly changed, as specified, the trapped oil will do no harm, and has been done this way since the engine was invented. I can't see a pump doing a better job, but is in this case useful when the plug is damaged.
There will be some oil 'trapped' in oilways and the cylinder head, which is why the book will usually give two figures, the total capacity, and the oil & filter change capacity. I think the only way to get more out than from the sump plug would be to remove the cam cover and mop out all the trapped oil, then try to vacuum out the oilways.
The oil has a job to do to carry any soot and particles around and deposit it into the filter. Some heavier stuff may collect in the bottom of the sump, where draining is likely to be more successful than pumping. If the oil is regularly changed, as specified, the trapped oil will do no harm, and has been done this way since the engine was invented. I can't see a pump doing a better job, but is in this case useful when the plug is damaged.
