General Oil Pan Air Duct Connector

[usafstud]

Hey guys,

I realized I got an oil leak from the oil pan because the air duct from the generator to the oil pan is not sitting flush to the oil pan. Thus causing oil to leak out when it is running.

Anyone know where I can get one? I'm having trouble finding one online.

Thank,
Frank

 

[tjmra]

Frank,

can you post a photo or two please? I don't have my motor back from the mechanic yet so I can't get my head around your problem. The air cooling and oil systems are not connected as such.

I would suspect you have a leak somewhere else that is running down the the inside of the ducting. (Or are you saying the ducting is damaged in a way that you can't tighten the oil pan properly becase ducting it is in the way?)

Joe R

 

[usafstud]

Or are you saying the ducting is damaged in a way that you can't tighten the oil pan properly becase ducting it is in the way?

Joe R

Joe that is what I'm saying. The air duct piece is really small and over laps the one side of oil pan. The duct is bent in a way that the oil pan bolts can't sit flush on it and oil is dripping out around one oil pan bolt hole.

I'll go to the garage and take pics of the piece this weekend.

 

[Toshi 975]

Like Joe R says that little connector section has nothing to do with the oil circulation in the engine. Might be worth checking the gasket on the carb side of the rocker box cover in case oil is escaping there . You could also check that no oil is blowing back into the air filter.

 

[usafstud]

Oil is leaking out of one of the oil pan bolt hole because the airduct doest sit flush with the pan.

Here is the part i'm looking to replace.

 

[Bambino]

Frank,
I got the camera out and after rifling through the parts box found the bits to which you refer.

The sump is held on with 16 x 10mm short bolts and one is hidden by the air deflector. Also, over the years, the air passages on these sumps get dinged and dented and fill with general crap and crud so they are no longer effective anyway.

I guess you have a few options -

1) Remove the deflector completely. As the sump is responsible for most of the oil cooling, this probably isn't a good idea though, as I noted above, the air passages may be blocked anyway.

2) Remove the sump, clean it and the air passages and reinstall it all with a new gasket. Take care tightening the sump bolts as too tight will crush the gasket and may strip the threads in the crankcase.

3) Raid the piggybank and install a nice ribbed aluminium alloy 3 litre sump from one of the aftermarket suppliers for about 80 euros. This is what I did when I rebuilt my engine. Aluminium, or aluminum as you Nth Americans call it, has a greater heat conductivity than steel and will cool the oil without forced air circulation. The downside may be that you no longer have the 'sump protector' and will have to be careful where you drive.

Just my opinion.

Let us know how you get on,
Chris

 

[Bambino]

PS:

These are the ducts/vents on the sump that I'm talking about.
This is the original sump from my 500 engine after cleaning and considerable panel beating.

My air ducts were completely clogged.

Chris

 

[tjmra]

Chris.

under normal circumstance, with a new standard sump a little air would always be going through the channels. With your new sump, have you blanked off the deflector exit or does a lot of air spill out towards the sump now? (or has you larger motor changed everything......)

Joe R

 

[Damon500]

Hi Frank,
I really don't think your air deflector has anything to do with the oil leak- it is not unusual for this duct to sit a little out of true but it won't cause a leak in itself.
Here are a few tips gathered over the last 20 yrs I have been playing with 500's...
If you have a sump leak it is probably due to poor sealing of the gasket. When replacing a gasket it is a good idea to hit the holes with a ball pein hammer from the inside (gasket) side so they are flush or below- this will remove high spots around the holes and help the sump gasket seal.
Also make sure the surfaces are very clean of oil and put the gasket on dry- if you use a gasket sealant it will cause the gasket to move and often split as you tighten the pan with consequent leakage. When tightening the pan down do it in stages starting from the centre of each side and work outwards- tighten the bolts until you just start to see the gasket compress out then stop.
Hope this helps!

 

[Bambino]

Chris.

under normal circumstance, with a new standard sump a little air would always be going through the channels. With your new sump, have you blanked off the deflector exit or does a lot of air spill out towards the sump now? (or has you larger motor changed everything......)

Joe R

I left it open - the mudwasps will need somewhere to nest .....

As to Franks' problem, I have to agree with Damon and was just answering his question regarding the sump.

I think that the greatest value will come from jacking up the car, getting underneath and having a good look. Pulling off the sump will do little harm and will give him the chance to examine the bottom end. He's got an oil leak from somewhere and with these motors at this age, it could be coming from anywhere but most likely from an area exposed to a reasonable oil pressure eg: bearing seals etc.

Chris

 

[usafstud]

Sorry for the late update. Been busy traveling for family stuff.

Here is how the oil pan and gasket looks like where the oil is coming out. Looks like I over did the bolts on the air duct connector and the gakset got squished out.

I plan on ordering an aluminum oil pan and new gasket so that I don't need to put on the air duct as Bambino have mentioned.

http://mrfiat.com/part.php?item=Cars/Fiat/Fiat500/Engine/Fiat500AluminumOilSumpNew.html