Technical OBD II reader - where is it? / KKL?

[realstokebloke]

I.

Oh dear, before I buy some leads to use with the MultiECUScan software, I thought I'd just d. check where the actual socket is.

Just under the dash / drivers side right?

Not obviously on mine it's not ('54 Mulitpla Eleganza JTD nose job).

Only had a quick look in the twilight & no torch, but is it really well hidden under there or am I not even warm and it's somewhere else entirely?

"Durr".

II.

Oh and the leads that looked the best use the KKL socket / interface. They have the switch that jumps between the engine / ABS / airbag (instead of the sets of multi coloured leads).

Are these as good or am I better off sticking to ELM27 leads?

 

[widemouthfrog]

This is for the LHD Multipla, but it's just a mirror image of the RHD:

http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/location-plug-connector-obd.php?brand=fiat&model=multipla

Can't comment on the KKL cable as I've never used one.

 

[realstokebloke]

Thanks WMF - I did look quickly in there but it looks to be up & round the corner a bit, so that, plus the fact that I'm "as blind as..." lets me off I hope.

The KKL leads seem to do the lot (as noted above) but I have only noticed people banging on about ELM27 for Fiats, so was just wondering if anyone can vouch for this interface.

It's this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MultiECUS...005&prg=9210&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=151252133007&rt=nc

 

[Bing163]

It really depends what you are looking to achieve by buying it. If you could give us a clue as to what problem you have then it will be easier to advise.

 

[realstokebloke]

It really depends what you are looking to achieve by buying it. If you could give us a clue as to what problem you have then it will be easier to advise.

Hi Bing, I want the lead, initially so that I can read an engine light / fault code. And then go to my usual garage better informed.

Although it has come on, it runs just the same as ever (no obvious flat spots, lots of smoke etc) so I can't think it's something horrendous or terminal but no point in ignoring it & hoping it will go away.

So when I asked at the local auto elec place, they said £40 just to read the code, so I figured that a set of leads and the MulitECUScan free software would give me that initial diagnosis - plus, I'd then have the leads should it happen again.

So then I looked at various leads & saw the ELM27 ones recommended but also saw this KKL one that reads the airbag & the ABS as well as I understand it via the switching facility.

And, once again, as I understand it the KKL is just ano 'way in' to the engine management system that the MultiECUScan software also reads.

So my question was, I guess, does this system / this KKL interface read & access the data as well as the ELM27 really?

So no, I'm not trying to do a complete amateur remap just yet !

Edit:

Sorry, I should add that I was / am quite happy to get the ELM27 leads but widemouth frog did point out that some of the dodgy ones can be faulty and you need to mess about taking diodes or whatever out. CBA'd with all / that, so just want some that work and had not heard / seen the same thing about KKL ones ( possibly 'cos no one buys them !)

 

[Bing163]

OK, understand that. Well, I have the MultiECU scan set up and it does everything I want it to. Bought mine as a job lot some time ago. However, as you might notice from the forum there are about a million inconclusive posts about That Light and Message and even with the codes it can be hard to identify the actual cause of the problem and many people have spent oodles of cash replacing perfectly good components and still get the message.
If you are planning to use the scanner to get codes to give to your repairer then is would advise caution as you could be giving him/her a licence to print money. The codes will probably point to an over boost or EGR problem and depending on your precise model [some have different set ups and components] i would start by giving the EGR a proper clean as it is bound to be caked in slimy carbon deposits possibly preventing it from operating properly and caused my particular "Red Engine". Having the ability to erase codes is a real help but having the codes is not the clincher you are looking for in my experience and that of many other people on the forum.
Regards
Stephen

 

[realstokebloke]

OK, understand that. Well, I have the MultiECU scan set up and it does everything I want it to. Bought mine as a job lot some time ago. However, as you might notice from the forum there are about a million inconclusive posts about That Light and Message and even with the codes it can be hard to identify the actual cause of the problem and many people have spent oodles of cash replacing perfectly good components and still get the message.
If you are planning to use the scanner to get codes to give to your repairer then is would advise caution as you could be giving him/her a licence to print money. The codes will probably point to an over boost or EGR problem and depending on your precise model [some have different set ups and components] i would start by giving the EGR a proper clean as it is bound to be caked in slimy carbon deposits possibly preventing it from operating properly and caused my particular "Red Engine". Having the ability to erase codes is a real help but having the codes is not the clincher you are looking for in my experience and that of many other people on the forum.
Regards
Stephen

Thanks Bing,

I sort of 'get' the identified code vs the 'real' cause issue you mention & understand that it can be the "there was an old lady who swallowed a fly..." type scenario where one part might be flinging out a code but only because ano part has failed further up / down the line somewhere.

And so, yes, I can well understand the blank cheque scenario too - although, ironically, by buying one I was hoping to avoid just that. :bang:

I also get that whatever it is - and ahead of a read of the code - there's going to be a good chance that it will be something to do with the EGR anyway, so there's an argument to say, take it off & clean it anyway and save the time / effort / £ of buying even the leads? (I am still looking for the definitive 'how to remove / clean the EGR' thread on here if anyone has a link.)

But equally, it might be something else; hence me thinking of buying leads as a starting point (plus I'd like to have a bash anyway & find out a bit more about it all & it sounds like the MultiECUScan software is pretty good & worth it).

So does your set up use the ELM27 interface or the KKL in job lot? Or won't that matter? The ELM27 one that Chr1s recommends in ano thread is 1/2 the cost of the KKL one, so given that this is probably not going to be 'the answer' anyway, as long as the ELM27 one works, maybe that's the better one then?

 

[Bing163]

I had to go and ferret mine out. It is a KKL rather than the other one but like you i do not think it really matters.
My assessment of codes giving the right information comes from the huge number of posts on this forum regarding outcomes from taking a code "as read" rather than from personal knowledge. Maybe I was lucky in that the code pointed in the general direction of the EGR, so I took it off, stripped it down and it was in a shocking state, cleaned it, put it back on again and after erasing the code it has not come back on after several thousand miles.
I am sure there are cases where there does not happen and it is a pity that most of the posts referring to this enormous area of correspondence are not conclusive and the posters do not give the reader closure - as in providing information about what actually cured it. Or perhaps they didn't and jumped off a bridge in pure frustration. We will never know.....
Regards
Stephen

 

[realstokebloke]

I had to go and ferret mine out. It is a KKL rather than the other one but like you i do not think it really matters.
My assessment of codes giving the right information comes from the huge number of posts on this forum regarding outcomes from taking a code "as read" rather than from personal knowledge. Maybe I was lucky in that the code pointed in the general direction of the EGR, so I took it off, stripped it down and it was in a shocking state, cleaned it, put it back on again and after erasing the code it has not come back on after several thousand miles.
I am sure there are cases where there does not happen and it is a pity that most of the posts referring to this enormous area of correspondence are not conclusive and the posters do not give the reader closure - as in providing information about what actually cured it. Or perhaps they didn't and jumped off a bridge in pure frustration. We will never know.....
Regards
Stephen

Hi Stephen / anyone else who might know...

Where (if there is one) is the best guide to getting at / taking off & cleaning the EGR please on here?

Seen various bits across various threads but wondered if there was a good, single guide on here ?

Cheers.

 

[slobo]

A lot of people have the best intentions of removing and cleaning the EGR valve.

Once you start, you realise what a pig of a job it is, and when you refit it, it clogs up again and sticks.

Then you wish you had just blanked it off in the first place (10 min job) and be done with it.

 

[boilermansab]

As slobo says
Its a horrible job to remove on a jtd

 

[boilermansab]

Just blank it for £5

 

[QinteQ]

- another vote - blank it - it wastes your money and is not part of the VOSA test - a quid

 

[Bing163]

Hello,
Sorry I have been on holiday and only just seen this thread and your message. The others who have responded ahead of me are quite right that a blanked off EGR gets rid of the problem of an EGR valve that is stuck open but of course the blanking plate has the effect of having the EGR valve stuck in the closed position. There is a thread on this somewhere on this forum about the pro's and cons of the EGR and even talks about damage to the environment even!
My comment is that whilst the job is not a doddle it isn't that bad and in fact I have to do one in the next week so I will photograph it and post the photos on the forum so you can see for yourself.
Incidentally, you could blank the EGR to make sure it is the fault you think you have and if it is then you can either carry on with it or bite the bullet and replace/clean the EGR valve.
Regards
Stephen

 

[realstokebloke]

Hi Stephen / Bing: did you complete your EGR valve clean recently plse?

I wondered as you said you would take some photos / document it - which would be invaluable for a newbie like me.

All tips / do's / don'ts gratefully received ! : )


Edit:

And if you do put it up here, can you also point out where / how to blank it (even as a test as you say).

Thanks.