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Technical Not Starting

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Technical Not Starting

nitro_warrior

nitro_warrior

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Panda wouldn't start this morning, so am looking for some pointers on where to start my diagnosis.

When I first turned the key it was fine, turned the engine a couple of times. Didn't start but it likes the throttle to pumped a couple of times when cold, which I did. When I turned the key again nothing. The engine didn't even turn over, the starter motor solenoid didn't click, nothing.

Tried with the lights on, watching their reflection, they didn't dim so I don't think there was any electrical draw at all.

Any suggestions for trying to resolve? I seem to remember there being a spade connector on the back of the carb that caused me starting issues years ago, but I can't remember if it stopped the engine turning over or just stopped it firing.

Ideas?
 
It could be. Is there a way to test that and is that a fault others have experienced?

I should add I have an immobiliser fitted. The fault behaved very much like if the immobiliser was active. The immobilser light turned off with the immbolisser key being fitted suggesting it was off, but I will look at that too.
 
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Hopefully I can get stuck into this at the weekend. Any tips for how to get to remove the ignition barrel. From memory steering wheel comes off and then the plastic cover can be removed?
 
One of those days. Was planning on locking at the ignition after replacing the hand brake cable of my Chrysler Voyager only to discover the cable I have waited 20 days for is the wrong one. Then I discovered a hole in the Voyagers's sill which turned to a collection of large holes so have spent all day fixing that!

So just dug out my spare ignition barrell and remembered the problem. Presumably to prevent cirumnavigating the steering lock the bolts don't have a means to remove them. Not checked the one on the car to see if it's the same, but is there a technique that doesn't involve cutting it off?

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just take the switch off?? i remember now after looking at the picture, just press the 2 plastic tags in just a bit higher than the ignition switch and the switch will pull out of the column.

behind the switch is 2 gears that converts the movement of the key turning by 90 degreese. so long as you dont turn the key everything will line up just make sure that both ignition barrels are in the "key out" position.

taking the switch out wont make the thing all fall apart. you have to do some more things to make it do that...i know you can take them to bits as i did it with fallouts one.
 
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Well the "new" one has stopped working. Which makes me a little suspicious, still need to take it apart to check, could there be another fault that breaks ignition barrel contacts? Seems unlikely, or have I just been unlucky...
 
I would look closer towards starter motor and the current which it draws.
Remove starter motor , disassemble and clean every single gap between individual sections of motor rotor where the brushes races are. I bet they are full of dust - but that dust does conduct as well. While you're ther inspect solenoid contact bar as well.
 
One possibly not unrelated issue I have is that it starts really, well when its used everyday. But, leave it for a few days and the fuel drains back to the tank and it only starts once fuel is pump back up to the carb - which means I have to hold it on the starter motor for ages. Which will only compound the issue you describe Kolza.

Not quite sure where the fuel goes. I have a one way valve on the inlet fuel line which doesn't seem to help. I used to have manual hand fuel pump bulb, a couple of squeezes on that and it would start straight away. But they're not great quality and I didn't replace it when the second one split. I suspect I have a small air leak in the system somewhere (possibly return line) that means there's no negative pressure to keep the fuel hanging in the pipes. I should probably replace all my fuel lines but i'm also tempted to fit a small low pressure electric pump that I can run for a couple of seconds before starting.
 
Dragon Man said:
just take the switch off?? i remember now after looking at the picture, just press the 2 plastic tags in just a bit higher than the ignition switch and the switch will pull out of the column.

behind the switch is 2 gears that converts the movement of the key turning by 90 degreese. so long as you dont turn the key everything will line up just make sure that both ignition barrels are in the "key out" position.

taking the switch out wont make the thing all fall apart. you have to do some more things to make it do that...i know you can take them to bits as i did it with fallouts one.
Click to expand...

After I fixed the ignition switch I took the Panda for an MoT which it passed the next time I went to use it same problem. It was a few weeks ago now and I have only just got around to look at it. I am assuming the "new" (from my spare pile) ignition has the same fault. I have dismantled the old ignition switch by drilling out the pins and cleaned up the terminals which were pretty black. Question now is, any good way of reassembly? get hold of some 2mm and 3mm bolts, or am I best to track down the funny little hollow securing pin/rivit things 3x 2mm round the side and 1x 3mm in the centre?
 
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