Technical Non start 1998 ducato

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Technical Non start 1998 ducato

Joined
Apr 26, 2025
Messages
23
Points
55
Location
Glasgow
Hi,
Parked van up then later went to start nothing.
The fuel gauge if or was iffy now matter what you put in it read just over half. Before I parked up the van the gauge read lower than I had seen before. So my thoughts were no fuel (fuel gauge reads zero) put 2 gallons in and tried to start nothing battwry went flat and charging it. How does one bleed the fuel system as the Petter Russek book give no indication how to do this. Also cant find a decent workshop book for a 1998 van no Haynes manual for that year.
Will look for OBD port if I can find it.
Thanks in advance
BBM
 
Model
Fiat Ducato auto trail 2.5D
Year
1998
Mileage
70000
Hi,
Parked van up then later went to start nothing.
The fuel gauge if or was iffy now matter what you put in it read just over half. Before I parked up the van the gauge read lower than I had seen before. So my thoughts were no fuel (fuel gauge reads zero) put 2 gallons in and tried to start nothing battwry went flat and charging it. How does one bleed the fuel system as the Petter Russek book give no indication how to do this. Also cant find a decent workshop book for a 1998 van no Haynes manual for that year.
Will look for OBD port if I can find it.
Thanks in advance
BBM
Does your fuel filter look like this example ? Black button is priming pump, but you will need to bleed air out. With the linked type of filter the pump diaphragm can harden and crack with age. A new filter top would be required.

You will not find an OBD port on vehicle like yours, with mechanically controlled injection.
 
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Hi.

Not it is not the same, its a metal canister with water sensor at the bottom looks like one in photo attached. As my sender unit has seem to have died it has 2 fuel pipes on top a supply and return I wonder if this has caused the failure .I would guess the pipes are just going into the tank grabbing at straws me thinks
Thanks in advance. Ps Also photo of sender unit to fit van.
 

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Hi, When I bought my 1996 1.9td it came with a bubble type pump in the fuel line which I presumed was a primer.It was badly fitted and had caused a kink in the fuel line. I removed it and now I never let the fuel get too low. You may have to fit something similar to prime the fuel system if you have run out of fuel. I will just add that I've never had a problem in 18 years since doing this. You must get your fuel gauge sorted whatever the fault. All the Best, Ian.
 
UPDATE
Sods law comes to mind.
First of all thanks to everybody who responded to all my recent threads.
At present I have no Clue as to anything or wgat happened.
So heres the update looked under the bonnet nothing looks like shown in diagrams 1 bit of harness is flying in the wind showing 3 wires grey in colour not connect bare wires, pushed them out the way.

I then had a look at top off battery saw a small connector block touched it and it was solidly fixed. Dont know how I'm going to get battery out if needed.

It was run down yesterday with all my fiddling about including my battery pack.
So what did I do well NOTHING, I decided to turn on ignition just to see everything light up including fuel gauge but also CODE light (I had never seen this or knew it had it thought it was 2 old.

So glowplug light went out turned key it Blinking Started and ran even with low battery. CODE light still on so with hand on heart switched off.

I tried again it started NO CODE light.

So tried again started right away so I am happy but not confident especially with code light.
If someone can tell me their thoughts about code and what I can do about it -bypass?

Just stopped me having to get electrician or sent to garage.
Again many thanks to all
BBM
 
Donated will do again when OAP comes in :)))
I am donating TOO much of my time.

For a description of the key code system, see extract below, from a recent post of mine. Most of it is applicable.

As code failure is intermittent, I suggest trying the fix that has worked for me. Access code receiver under steering column. Receiver is tucked in there. Disconnect, and apply contact cleaner, reconnect and test. This worked for me after getting two out of five failures when testing, plus one in service which like yours worked at second attempt. No failures since.
Your key will have a coded electrinic chip inside the handle end. It does not require batteries or other components inside the key.
There is a black ring aerial around the ignition lock where you insert the key.. On switching the ignition on power is supplied to a code receiver located under the steering column. A power supplying radio pulse is sent from the receiver to the key via the aeriel ring. The key responds with its code signal. If the code matches one already stored in the code receiver the key code light is extinguished, almost simultaneously electronice on the pump have sent another code to the code receiver, which is only repeated back to the pump if the key has been recognised. When correct code, which changes each time, is received at the pump, the stop solenoid is energised to allow fuel injection.

To prevent hot wiring, the pump components are covered by a shield which is held onto the pump with security screws, so difficult to access the stop solenoid.

Look after the code card. It carries details of physical key, and an emergency code which can be used to start the engine if the code system fails.

To reach the stop solenoid you would have to grind out the security screws securing the shield. This would irrepairably damage the code system, so is drastic action. I suggest proving the fuel cut off valve is physically stuck first.
 
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Forgot to mention it was the same key very time I had not used the spare during all this excitement.
Dont think I have a code card and emergency code. I would not know how to input such a code.
Thanks
 
Forgot to mention it was the same key very time I had not used the spare during all this excitement.
Dont think I have a code card and emergency code. I would not know how to input such a code.
Thanks
The code card part was perhaps not relevant. Most of those in UK do not have code cards at behest of insurance association. Details for use are in Drivers Handbook, but by the time you find out about the code its too late to ask. Insurance companies may have saved money, but those particularly with common rail vehicles who suffer key code problems are left to pick up a hefty tab.
Those who have an imported MH usually receive a code card.
As you may have guessed the lack of a code card is a sore point with me.
 
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