Technical No idea whats wrong

[Kiltedboarder]

Hi,
decided to do a bit of changing out of parts on the ignition. So new plugs, leads, coil, distrubutor rotor and condenser. I marked everything as I went so i could build back correctly. Now they car wont start, Ive redone all the connections, tried in reverse etc but nothing

Any ideas on what or how to check

Thanks

 

[bugsymike]

Hi,
decided to do a bit of changing out of parts on the ignition. So new plugs, leads, coil, distrubutor rotor and condenser. I marked everything as I went so i could build back correctly. Now they car wont start, Ive redone all the connections, tried in reverse etc but nothing

Any ideas on what or how to check

Thanks

Back in the late 1960s as an apprentice it was common on a Monday morning to be asked to start peoples cars. Sunday Morning husband would wash the car, then have the urge to do a service, "after all if the oily rag down at the garage can do it, how hard can it be?".
Often it was a case of putting the points together again in the right way, when we queried with the guys wife she would say "Oh no, no one has touched it".
In fairness when you have done it a couple of times , it isn't hard.
assuming no wires have been connected wrongly shorting to earth etc. the most common thing would be points gap, so with engine turned until points are at their widest gap, approx. 12-15 thou of an inch using feeler gauges is usually enough for most to run happily, although there are plenty on Forum who can give you the exact measurement, I have often set them by eye on many engines and started and ran cars no problem.
Assuming gap correctly set and points clean with no grease on the contacts, I would next turn engine by hand till points are closed, then with ignition light on and distributor cap off, if you open and close the points with your finger it should create a HT spark at the coil HT lead, if that is all working and you haven't mixed up the leads from distributor to spark plugs, or altered the position of the distributor put it back together again and I would expect it to fire.
Note this is only basic reasons for non starting, there are many others, but start with this

 

[smart51]

Something similar has happened to me 3 times. The first time, I forgot to turn the ignition key on. You can crank the engine without. The second time, the 12V to the coil ballast resistor had come off. The spade connector was a bit loose and nipping it up with some pliers fixed it. The third time, I'd set the points gap wrong. All three are the same thing - no spark.

 

[bugsymike]

Something similar has happened to me 3 times. The first time, I forgot to turn the ignition key on. You can crank the engine without. The second time, the 12V to the coil ballast resistor had come off. The spade connector was a bit loose and nipping it up with some pliers fixed it. The third time, I'd set the points gap wrong. All three are the same thing - no spark.

It's usually something simple, just don't let your wife point it out to you!

 

[Kiltedboarder]

Thanks guys, appreciate the info. I’ll give it a good looking over this weekend. In respect of the distributor. I only changed the rotor arm. So pulled of the old one fitted a new one. It seemed to only fit in one position so I guessed I could not have messed that up…..?

 

[smart51]

Thanks guys, appreciate the info. I’ll give it a good looking over this weekend. In respect of the distributor. I only changed the rotor arm. So pulled of the old one fitted a new one. It seemed to only fit in one position so I guessed I could not have messed that up…..?

If the old one was worn, even by a fraction of a millimetre, the points gap will be wrong. I wouldn't even trust putting the original back and it be in the right place. If it is that, it could be a really easy fix.

 

[Goldnrust]

If you don't get anywhere with points gap (0.5mm / 0.020" for a 500), and have checked it's not the plug leads on backwards, then another quick thing to try is to put some of the original bits back on, one by one, and see if that helps. Sadly it's not unheard of to have new parts that are failed out of the box!

 

[Kiltedboarder]

Thank you, yes that’s my next plan of attack. Go bit by bit and see where that takes me. Bit of a pain but part of the fun

 

[vexorg]

Always back to basics, are you getting a spark? fuel? air?
Are the plug leads on the correct order?

 

[Kiltedboarder]

update on my troubleshooting, all parts are in the right order. But tonight I turned the engine over by hand and look at the points. The seem to be permanently closed. I assume this is not right. To make matters worse the screw to hold the points is so chewed up Im not sure right now how to get it out. Anyway, any ideas why the points are always closed?

Thanks

 

[smart51]

If the points are always closed, they set too close together. Open the points gap to the correct setting and it'll probably spring into life.

 

[Kiltedboarder]

Thanks, trouble is the adjustment screw is so chewed up its really just a rounded of piece of metal, so need to figure out how to get it out

 

[bugsymike]

Thanks, trouble is the adjustment screw is so chewed up its really just a rounded of piece of metal, so need to figure out how to get it out

It may be an idea to get a new set of points, if the fibre heel of moving contact is worn down this may give more adjustment .
Have you tried undoing the locking screw completely and with the points moved to one side you may get better access to free off the adjuster.
As a total bodge with clean points and at the highest point on distributor cam, it is possible to bend the fixed contact to roughly the right clearance if impossible to adjust correctly, purely as a way of starting the engine.
Note I don't advocate this, as ideally any faulty parts should be replaced to function correctly.
It is more of a "get you home" solution at the side of the road.

 

[fiat500]

Thanks, trouble is the adjustment screw is so chewed up its really just a rounded of piece of metal, so need to figure out how to get it out

I think you need to enter the world of the Dremel, or similar.
Fortunately, the screw is tiny and can't be all that tight or corroded in. If you can't get a hold with small vice-grips, you could maybe grind a flat on both sides of the screw head to enable that.
In my workshop days, with bigger screws than that, we used a centre punch and hammer held at an angle, to encourage the screw to turn.
Someone good at welding, might be able to attach another rod or screw to the one that's stuck, and then turn it out.
If you can somehow persuade the points assembly to slide out from under the screw, it would release the tension and allow grips to make purchase and remove it; again, that might be done with a small punch or chisel.
At a push, you could grind off the screw head, the points will then come off, and you should be able to grip the screw shaft. Worst case, you could end up with the threaded part stuck, and have to drill it out very carefully.
All very fiddly, but it can be done.

 

[bugsymike]

Maybe a photo will clarify?