Technical no acceleration Stilo JTD

[chrissib]

I have ben speaking to various people and half understand the concept of what maybe happening with the lack of power on acceleration. I have 2 faults (P0404 + P0046)

I have been told that it may be related to the actuator on the waste gate just under the turbo maybe stuck open and not allowing enough pressure to build up and spin the turbo, or something to do with the boost solenoid.

I think I have located the waste gate and undone the 2 10mm bolts holding it on, but cant work out how to free the actuator, as it is tucked up into the turbo, and I don't know how to get this out. Is there a sure way I can test this in situ...?

And I think I have located the boost solenoid by following the vacuum pipe from the waste gate, and it goes to a small object mounted below the nearside headlight, with a sensor on it. Again awkward to get to... is there a way I can test this, to determine if it is the sensor or the solenoid itself.

Any help would be appreciated..
Chrissib

 

[Clivvy]

I cant offer too much to help im afraid, but I wouldn't mess too much with the turbo just yet. The boost solenoid can stick and fail, im not 100% sure that they can be cleaned, but they aren't too expensive to fix - that said if you can get someone with MES the actuator can be tested, as can the turbo actuator (I think!).


What is the original fault, and what symptoms do you have?

 

[Davren]

Which engine do you have?

Only the 80bhp JTD engine has a wastegate on the turbo, the 115bhp has a variable geometry turbo controlled by a boost solenoid and a device on the turbo that looks like a wastegate, but is actually the actuator to adjust the variable vanes in the turbo. That actuator is preset at the factory and should not be moved or adjusted.
.

 

[sussexa]

these may help

vac at vac pump(expect -0.8 to -0.9 approx.)

vac at the silicone pipe pulled off the turbo actuator (should be -0.6bar approx)

this is a plastic syringe(100ml or bigger is better ebay or pet shop may sell for a quid or so)
and youd need some rubber pipe to convert to gauges or syringe etc, screen wash cable or thin fuel pipe might do 3 or 4mm bore.oh and a cheap vacuum gauge or borrow one if you know any one who could get hands on one.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LARGE-PLA...l_Supplies_Disposables_ET&hash=item43c94ac16f
should be able to do these tests in minutes and then depending on results will direct you to vac supply issue, bad pump,leaking small bore vac hoses etc
or boost solenoid issue , seized ,broke or leaking(if suspect vac can be tested at vac pump side of solenoid)
or split or seized or leaking vnt actuator
or stuck or sticky vnt vanes(no movement or sticky jerky movement)

 

[jatkinson]

Could your egr be blocked? When mine was blocked I had poor power until the erg managed to close

 

[saw]

Could your egr be blocked? When mine was blocked I had poor power until the erg managed to close

was going to mention egr THANKS james

 

[chrissib]

The boost solenoid can stick and fail, im not 100% sure that they can be cleaned, but they aren't too expensive to fix

What is the original fault, and what symptoms do you have?

am I in the right area for the solenoid... below the nearside headlight..

Originl fault was error code 'P0046 Turbocharger boost control solenoid A Cct' and intermittant loss of acceleration.

 

[chrissib]

Which engine do you have?

Only the 80bhp JTD engine has a wastegate on the turbo, the 115bhp has a variable geometry turbo controlled by a boost solenoid and a device on the turbo that looks like a wastegate, but is actually the actuator to adjust the variable vanes in the turbo. That actuator is preset at the factory and should not be moved or adjusted.
.

I think it's a 115bhp, and there is what I thought was a wastegate directly underneath the turbo, with a white mark on the actuator arm which is tucked right up into the turbo, held with a circlip. This appears to have a vacuum pipe on the bottom, going to what I think is the boost solenoid, mounted low down underneathe the nearside headlight

 

[chrissib]

Could your egr be blocked? When mine was blocked I had poor power until the erg managed to close

dont know... where is the 'egr', and how do I test it?

 

[chrissib]

should be able to do these tests in minutes and then depending on results will direct you to vac supply issue, bad pump,leaking small bore vac hoses etc
or boost solenoid issue , seized ,broke or leaking

thanks for the suggestions... not sure I fully understand the first 2 videos, but I have a syringe and could probably do the last test. If I remove the feed from the boost solenoid, and plug my syringe onto the pipe, would this be enough to move the actuator?

 

[Davren]

am I in the right area for the solenoid... below the nearside headlight..

Originl fault was error code 'P0046 Turbocharger boost control solenoid A Cct' and intermittant loss of acceleration.

Yes... the boost control solenoid was originally mounted low down below the left headlamp. It got water in the electrical connection there, so there was a Fiat modification to move up to the side of the battery box.

As you have the solenoid, you do not have a wastegate.
.

 

[sussexa]

yes pull the silicone pipe off the turbo actuator at the turbo end.
then connect a syringe with a small length of pipe to connect to the actuator, push syringe fully in first and then connect up.
then pulling out the syringe should create a good enough vac to opperate the actuator like my vid, the smaller bore pipe and the shorter length the better.
the first vid is connecting to the main outlet on the vac pump(mines a 16v not sure where yours is)
the second vid was connecting a vac gauge to the silicone pipe from boost solenoid to actuator at the actuator end(proving vac is good all the way to the actuator itself, no splits or leaks etc)
in my tests 75% boost solenoid position(idle condition) should relate to a vac of approx -0.6 bar athe actuator.
this should be enough to pull the vnt lever fully to the stop screw.
puling the pipe off should then release the vac to the actuator and the arm should extend approx 10mm.
to save the syringe method you could just start the car and let idle, pull the pipe off the actuator, watch the rod move 10mm or so, then connect the pipe and see it pull in 10mm or so repeat over and over if it looks jerky as this may free it up a bit.
if this works ok id say your pipes are ok , solenoid is in max spool position(could be stuck in that position but your symptoms suggest not)and system has enough vac to work properly.
as your suffering low power acceleratioin etc id guess you will not see good results from this test( but they will be free)as in it sounds like your probably in min spool position .
no damage should be done removing that pipe with engine running, it will just cycle turbo in max spool to min spool position, just be carefull not to let the pipe dangle in any dirt or puddles to suck debris into the boost solenoid.

 

[uzib]

yes pull the silicone pipe off the turbo actuator at the turbo end.
then connect a syringe with a small length of pipe to connect to the actuator, push syringe fully in first and then connect up.
then pulling out the syringe should create a good enough vac to opperate the actuator like my vid, the smaller bore pipe and the shorter length the better.
the first vid is connecting to the main outlet on the vac pump(mines a 16v not sure where yours is)
the second vid was connecting a vac gauge to the silicone pipe from boost solenoid to actuator at the actuator end(proving vac is good all the way to the actuator itself, no splits or leaks etc)
in my tests 75% boost solenoid position(idle condition) should relate to a vac of approx -0.6 bar athe actuator.
this should be enough to pull the vnt lever fully to the stop screw.
puling the pipe off should then release the vac to the actuator and the arm should extend approx 10mm.
to save the syringe method you could just start the car and let idle, pull the pipe off the actuator, watch the rod move 10mm or so, then connect the pipe and see it pull in 10mm or so repeat over and over if it looks jerky as this may free it up a bit.
if this works ok id say your pipes are ok , solenoid is in max spool position(could be stuck in that position but your symptoms suggest not)and system has enough vac to work properly.
as your suffering low power acceleratioin etc id guess you will not see good results from this test( but they will be free)as in it sounds like your probably in min spool position .
no damage should be done removing that pipe with engine running, it will just cycle turbo in max spool to min spool position, just be carefull not to let the pipe dangle in any dirt or puddles to suck debris into the boost solenoid.

hi i'm a newbie and think i have the same or similar issue. i have just bought a 1.9d jtd estate 53 plate, and there is a problem with the acceleration this presented in a 2 stage drop, revs knocked out @ 3-3.5k and power wasn't there and engine fault light came on. I took it to a mechanic who has checked the egr valve (this was changed with a 2nd hand part when i bought the car) , turbo (which was cleaned) vac tested and taken off the air flow meter. this has helped a bit but it still has an issue with restriction to 3-3.5k revs. any ideas as the mechanic has mentioned maf and ecu. thanks

 

[haxman]

hi i'm a newbie and think i have the same or similar issue. i have just bought a 1.9d jtd estate 53 plate, and there is a problem with the acceleration this presented in a 2 stage drop, revs knocked out @ 3-3.5k and power wasn't there and engine fault light came on. I took it to a mechanic who has checked the egr valve (this was changed with a 2nd hand part when i bought the car) , turbo (which was cleaned) vac tested and taken off the air flow meter. this has helped a bit but it still has an issue with restriction to 3-3.5k revs. any ideas as the mechanic has mentioned maf and ecu. thanks

Hi and welcome to the forum. Is your engine light still on or has it gone off?Your problem is quite possible related to the boost solenoid valve, (common fault) you might find it cures itself, and then after a while it happens again, particularly if it's raining. If it is this valve, this guide will help you out: https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo-guides/224083-stilo-jtd-boost-solenoid-valve-resite.html