Technical New Coil Pack & Plug Leads, Still misfiring.
- Thread starter watts320
- Start date
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Technical New Coil Pack & Plug Leads, Still misfiring.
Ive had a new set of plug leads, new coil packs.. still misfiring, what am i doing wrong!!!?
Next thing I can only suggest is spark plugs.
yeah iagree try spark plugs next.
Of all the stab in the dark solutions, plugs are going to be the cheapest.
If that doesn't work (or even before) code read.
If that doesn't work (or even before) code read.
Coil pack A, sure, but which side? Primary or secondary?
antipesto93
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When I had this, my head gasket was gone 
- so a compression test would quickly rule that out if you have a tester handy.
Try swapping over coil packs and see if the misfire moves. Or you could check for a spark at the end of each lead manually like this :
And disconnect the battery when playing with the coil packs so you do not spike the ECU
- so a compression test would quickly rule that out if you have a tester handy.Try swapping over coil packs and see if the misfire moves. Or you could check for a spark at the end of each lead manually like this :
And disconnect the battery when playing with the coil packs so you do not spike the ECU
Certainly worthwhile considering other causes of misfires other than ignition, but I think the coil pack A fault needs following up. Primary side is the low tension side (connector and leads from the ECU to the coil), secondary the high tension side (plugs, leads, general filth).
Either can be (but is by no means necessarily) internal to the coil.
Either can be (but is by no means necessarily) internal to the coil.
Injector coils can simulate a miss fire feeling, usually great until it heats up then the coil inside the injectors starts braking down/shorting, but might bring up an injector fault code, the one we fixed never brought up a code. Just throwing it out there . . . .
Could mean almost anything. Maybe a part number?
Trace the low tension wires right back -- look for a break, chaffed insulation, etc.
If you don't find one, break out the multimeter and do a continuity check.
If that doesn't turn anything up, Check the big fat connectors at the ECU (clean, make sure no pins are pushed out of place or bent).
Failing that, the ECU is suspect.
If you don't find one, break out the multimeter and do a continuity check.
If that doesn't turn anything up, Check the big fat connectors at the ECU (clean, make sure no pins are pushed out of place or bent).
Failing that, the ECU is suspect.
Trace the low tension wires right back -- look for a break, chaffed insulation, etc.
If you don't find one, break out the multimeter and do a continuity check.
If that doesn't turn anything up, Check the big fat connectors at the ECU (clean, make sure no pins are pushed out of place or bent).
Failing that, the ECU is suspect.
If you don't find one, break out the multimeter and do a continuity check.
If that doesn't turn anything up, Check the big fat connectors at the ECU (clean, make sure no pins are pushed out of place or bent).
Failing that, the ECU is suspect.
