Technical Need help urgent

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Technical Need help urgent

nay27uk

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Aug 30, 2005
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My uno faildits mot on a big long list . one of them being the nearside rear brack showing little or no effort. im trying to get the drum off to fix it but cant. does anyone please know how to free off the brake to get the drum off, i cant find any hole to get in to adjust the tension, the hand brake is off, PLEASE HELP
 
Assuming you've undone the two little nuts then the drum should slide off without too much bother. Does the drum rotate freely with the handbrake off? It may help to disconnect the handbrake cable from the actuator arms if this is still a bit tight. Otherwise your best bet is to get a large flat screwdriver (or 2) and lever the drum away from the hub a bit at a time. If its very tight it may help to give it a tap with a hammer now and again (but not too hard!!)

Best of luck!!
 
First, release the handbrake cable from the handbrake cable lever at the rear brake end.
Then hammer the handbrake lever on the inner side of the rear brake assembly towards the back of the car.
Try hammering the perimeter of the drum with both bolts removed while pulling. Inserting some wedges where the drum was already moved from the plate behind can help (but not too much).
Generally speaking, your problem is that of rear brake drum/shoes/piston ready to die. It is hard to present the correct diagnosis here before you remove the drum.
I hate drum brakes :mad: !
 
Thanks all for the replyes. i managed to get the drum off by using a brick chisel and hammer. have taken the brake apart but dont realy know what the problem is, only things i have noted that may be the problem is

(1) the two piston things that push the pads onto the drum wher verry stiff and moving slow. Exampole if you push them in with a screwdriver they come back out very slowly.

(2) the pads seem a bit ridgy but not worn down.

Not sure about the drum itsself it seems to be in resonable condition with no ridges
 
If the rear drums are of the same design as on mine you will find a lever type bar on at the top of the shoes which becomes seized
If you strip the whole assembly down and use some lubricating/ penetrating fluid on all the components and agitate the lever until it is free this will help.
You may have to change the shoes , when I changed mine although they were not very low the new ones made a great difference.
Check the handbrake cable too and lubricate all the pulley wheels and spring tensioners.
Hopefully u have a haynes book for full reference.
A scrappy yard is the next place to go for your spare parts they always have a few unos around.
Like I said search the forum for handbrake as the info here is in great detail with diagrams too from other members who are more knowledgeable than me.
Good luck
Pete
 
Usually the problem with fiat handbrakes is the actuators get worn down slightly so that even at the end of their travel they arent putting enough force onto the shoes to hold the brake on. The answer is to replace the actuator arms, which is fairly straightforward to do and quite cheap too. Ive done this job on a panda and a cinquecento in the past. Last time I went to buy the parts (~£12) from my local Fiat dealer he actually had them in stock! There are a lot of similar threads on this forum which explain in more detail. My Uno turbo has discs all round....
 
not to sure why people are talking about handbrakes it was the nearside brake the mot tech was talking about it is either showing no responce or very little
 
OK, you have narrowed the problem down to the brake cylinder. Get new one - although it may be that repair set is available, it is not worth the effort.
Tips:
1) If you do not have Haynes manual, download one here:
http://www.italiancars.org/fiat/technika/technika.php
2) Brake cylinders are much cheaper from aftermarket manufacturers (e.g. Cifam) than from Fiat dealer.
3) Have a new metal hydraulic line ready - the chances are that the one you have there is rust-welded to the old cylinder and that you will round the bolt's head while trying to release it. It is much less hassle to cut the old pipe at the T-piece and remove the rest of the pipe with socket wrench from the T-piece.
4) The pipe is about 40 cm long and you should be able to find a shop where they manufacture them while-u-wait from bulk (the lenght is valid for a car with the steering wheel left, not sure about how it is on yours).
5) Use grinder to grind off the lip on the inner side of your drum. This was the reason you could not remove the drum easily. Removing it will faciliate future disassembly.
 
thanks that haynes manual was cool never know you could download emm
 
nay27uk said:
not to sure why people are talking about handbrakes it was the nearside brake the mot tech was talking about it is either showing no responce or very little

Sorry, its just that 99 times out of 100 its the handbrake that doesnt work and the footbrake is fine - didnt read your msg properly!
 
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