Panda 1.jpg

Panda (Classic) My Panda CLX

Introduction

Hi All

I am new to the forum and the Fiat Panda scene. I have just purchased a 1993 Panda 1000 CLX she has 75000 on the clock. She is in need of some TLC as she has been sitting in a workshop for the passed 7 months unused and neglected.

At a quick glance she needs a new exhaust manifold to head gasket, two new tyres and possibly a set of new front brake pads for the MOT.

She has a few bits of trim missing, both doors at the bottom rear corner have rust scabs and a couple of small dents to sort. I will add some photo's of her shortly.

Mark

Here's some photo's

Panda 1.jpg

Panda 2.jpg

Panda 5.jpg
Hi VmanC

Yes manual adjuster manually set so drums slide on and turn freely (rear wheel cylinders check for leaks no leaks) checked foot brake travels down about half way then locks front and back wheels pump brake peddle about 20 times to see if it made any difference (no) started the engine again test foot brake still travels about half way down before brakes lock. Hand brake adjusted (tightend handbrake till rear wheels just start to bind then operated the handbrake lever several times checked rear wheels still binding so back off adjustment until free. So my next step is to bleed the brakes changing the fluid completely will use an easy bleed system I have.
 
Hi VmanC

Yes manual adjuster manually set so drums slide on and turn freely (rear wheel cylinders check for leaks no leaks) checked foot brake travels down about half way then locks front and back wheels pump brake peddle about 20 times to see if it made any difference (no) started the engine again test foot brake still travels about half way down before brakes lock. Hand brake adjusted (tightend handbrake till rear wheels just start to bind then operated the handbrake lever several times checked rear wheels still binding so back off adjustment until free. So my next step is to bleed the brakes changing the fluid completely will use an easy bleed system I have.

Your approach sounds good to me. (y)
 
Service now completed new Oil, Air, Fuel Filters, Engine Oil, Gearbox oil and replace the rubbish NGK plugs with Bosch FR7DC+ now runs much smoother. I need to check the cam belt as I do not know when or if it has been replaced or it is due for replacement.

Holly has covered 75000 miles and there is a knocking noise coming from the cam cover I will also check the water pump at the same time.
 
The restance in the NGK plugs is to high and can damage the ECU's they also tend to break down quicker and cause misfires. I had a Renault 19 Chamade 16 valve purchased from a local dealer it have been serviced prior to my collecting it. After about 4 weeks it became difficult to start and when it did start had a misfire I took it back to the dealer under the warranty for the to fix they had it for three days I then recieved a phone call to say it was ready for collection. I collected the car the following morning the same problem occured. Went to and fro the garage for ten day trying to sort the problem but to know avail. I then met a neighbour who just happen to be a selfemployed vehicle electrician. he ran some diagnostics on the car and found that two of the plugs where breaking down and the other two had a high resistance. These where NGK plugs we replaced these with champion plugs but it still had a misfire on checking the ECU this was also found to be faulty. He wrote a written report for me and I return the car to the dealer with the report they replaced the ECU at a cost of £350.00 and the car ran perfectly after that so now I will not user and do not recommend NGK plugs. My friend Bob also does not recommend NGK plugs
 
You can only speak as you find, but I've used NGK in many many Fiat's over the last 25 years & never had a problem, so I'm with MEP on this one.

Sounds like the faulty ECU broke the plugs to me. :confused: as to how a plug can damage a healthy ECU.
 
I had a look through some of the paper work I got with the car and it was serviced about three months before I purchased it this is when the NKG plugs where fitted. It had covered about 800 miles prior to my purchaseing it. But I guess we all have our own opinions.

I have sworn by NGK for the last 7 years, I even have them in my lawnmower :ROFLMAO: :) each to their own though :)
 
Hi All

Bad weather now subsided so I have been able to get on with Holly. Foot brake problem now sorted just needed a complete change of brake fluid what came out was blacker that the ace of spades. Been checking over lights, horn, seat belts, tyres, suspension and steering joints all boots and gators all ok. Just have to problems to solve wipers front and rear inoperative and windscreen washer inoperative. So will look at these tomorrow.
 
Hi All

Just returned from the MOT station Holly did not pass.

Failed on

OSR brake light not working (faulty bulb holder)

Near side head light aim too low

Off side head light aim too high

Nearside (centre floor pan to sill x2 places) seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded

Off side track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged so it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt

Advisories

Nearside track rod end ball joint dust cover damaged but preventing the ingress of dirt

Both rear inner wheel arches to chassis rails corroded

Both rear coil springs corroded

Centre Floor cross-member holed and corroded to near side

Both bottom ball joint dust covers perished
off side front lower bottom ball joint worn / has movement from it close to excess.

So not to bad for a twenty year old car.
 
Hi All

Just returned from the MOT station Holly did not pass.

Failed on

OSR brake light not working (faulty bulb holder)

Near side head light aim too low

Off side head light aim too high

Nearside (centre floor pan to sill x2 places) seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded

Off side track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged so it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt

Advisories

Nearside track rod end ball joint dust cover damaged but preventing the ingress of dirt

Both rear inner wheel arches to chassis rails corroded

Both rear coil springs corroded

Centre Floor cross-member holed and corroded to near side

Both bottom ball joint dust covers perished
off side front lower bottom ball joint worn / has movement from it close to excess.

So not to bad for a twenty year old car.


They all sound pretty typical so no not bad.

A lot of garages would have the advisories as fails too so looks like you've found a friendly mot station.
 
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