Technical Mono-injection

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Technical Mono-injection

patientje

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Oct 13, 2003
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Location
Amsterdam, Netherlands.
Fiat Tipo 1.6 Mono-injection,
If engine not on temp. engine run perfectly,
If engine is warm, idle rpm goes up to 1000 rpm and drops down to
800 rpm, goes up again to a 1000 and drops again. etc.
Also problems with driving in lower rpm area's and accelerating
from low rpm area's. engine stotters. the following parts I
have replaced without any help.
- lamba sensor
- throttle valve postion sensor
If anybody experienced siad. problems or has any tips/trick!
please let me know!!!
Kind regards Tim van Veen
The Netherlands
 
Hallo Meneer Van Veen
I have recently had a few problems with my wife's fiat tipo 1.6iesx.
Problem 1-While driving the engine temperature was low and driving at 100kpm the engine was running cold. I had this check and the thermostat was sticking open so I had it replaced and the temperature is now good, at around 90c. Through the temperature being low the engine management system was being told the engine was cold and too much fuel was being mixed for iginition.
Problem 2- The car was always jerking (stotterd) in high and low rpm. So I had the spark plugs replaced and a new air filter fitted but the car was still jerking at all speeds. Again I went to the garage and the mechanic noticed that the 2 small pipes (buisjes) were broken and leaking air, these are connected to the air filter box and are also connected to the injection system. One pipe senses the warm air to the injection system and the other pipe senses the cold are to the injection system, then the engine management system calculates the correct fuel mixture. Both the pipes were replaced and the car is now running perfectly.
You can find the 2 pipe as follows; open your hood/bonnet and look at the air filter box on top of the engine, on the bottom left corner there is an air pipe about 50mm in diameter, on this pipe at this point there is a small pipe connecting to it about 5mm in diameter, if you follow this pipe it connects to the injection system under the air filter box, you also notice the second pipe will looking at this pipe. If you unscrew the 3 nuts on top of the air filter box and carefully remove it you will be able to examine the pipes, they do often split or the connection breaks. These were replaced on my wifes car and it now drives fine. I hope it works on your car.
As they say in dutch ' ik wens je heel veel succes'
Doei

Steve from England
 
Steve, thanks for replying,
seems that our car failure is quite the same.
I'm gonna check this sense pipe's,
and hopefuly thats the case.
As thay say in England
Cheers,
Tim
 
Checked all the vacuum hoses, and all fine!,
further, changed inlet temp sensor,
changed cooling fluid sensor, changes injection assy,
and performed injection computer read-out, nil findings.
all parts changed and problem still exists
The jerking is only there when the car is on temp.
with "cold" engine no problems. Changed also digiplex
ignition box, no success, changes sparkplugs and rotator.
Drives my a bit crazy right now, Who is the rocketscientist
with the solution.
any tips or tricks please let me know!!!!!!!!!
 
Hi,

I don’t know the exact type of your engine but in mine 149c2 046 I had similar problem. Check out the pipe from the pipe coming out from the exhoust after the lambda sond (if you have second pipe). It is a sytem that brings back the exhaust gases in the engine if it is cold to run more smoothly till heating up. If the system went wrong the sympthoms are the same. Check this out.

PS. Sorry for my English. Good luck.

Greatings from Bulgaria
Todor
 
Hello! I hink to have the same symptoms of your car... but I have a completely different car and engine: I have an UNO 1.1 i.e.
Engine is 1108 Fully Robotized, with fuel Injection Bosch Mono Jetronic, and separate ignition breakerless.
My car exhibits idle problem during engine warming up as your car: when it' s cold it works fine (idle and mixture are automatically incremented by ECU in order to give a correct idle);
But as soon as engine starts to warming (when water indicator starts to moveat approx 60 degrees), idle is reduced by ECU, but it starts to be iregular, expecially if I stop the car (at trafficlight): I can clearly see idle going down 800 rpm, then increase over 1000, and then stabilize at the correct value. Sometimes (rarely) it cuts out.
This problems stops only when engine is completely warmed up (water temperature at 90 degrees). I checked lambda signal during the warming up phase and I could see that it's very low (it means LEAN mixture). Infact that idling problems are very similar to the problems of old carburettor cars during cold season (they was used to run with poor mixture).
But I couldn't fix the problem. I thinkk it's an engine problem (high mileage, or air leaks somewhere, or old connections and rings etc...): the ECU program of idling started to be not longer adapted to the characteristics of an old engine. Probably they' d need a slightly rich mixture in order to compensate the losses. But ECU doesn't knows this fact!
I' ll try to do some other checks; I hope to fix the problem (but I'm not so sure...). I'll communicate you if I'll find something useful! And let me know if you can fix your problem: we can't know that it could be the same problem!!!
Sorry for my bad bad English.. but I'm Italian and I studied English at school...
Best regards,
Andrea.
 
Probably the original poster has solved his problem - or is driving something completely different now.
In several forums I encounter the problem he describes, and also my '95-Tipo did have this same problem. I did find a solution on the internet, that helped my Tipo.
Look at http://www.injetronic.com.br/dicas/dica.php?dica=23 . There you'll find a picture of the ground-lead of the ECU, attached to the inlet (or outlet?). This connection often gets bad. Cleaning and fastening it (and then resetting the ECU), did solve the described problems my Tipo had.
Hope this helps you guys.....
 
I think I'm having the same problem on my '95 Tipo 1.4 ie - it sometimes revs high on cold start, drives OK at first but sometimes a bit juddery, then when I stop (switch off) with the engine warm and then start it up again, the revs rise and fall rapidly (no revcounter to check values, but 800 - 1000 sounds about right). After this everything seems ok - but the exhaust pipe looks a bit sooty. I had something similar last year but a new lambda sensor seemed to fix it. Unfortunately I don't understand Portuguese so the link is not much help!

:eek:
 
You don't need to read portugese - the info from frans and the picture tells it all....

The connection as shown in the picture gets a bit iffy - clean and spray with WD and one less problem... n'est ce pas?
 
i have a different problem with my tipo. its 1.6 i.e and i need to find out on wich voltage is regulated that little thing on a side of carburator that regulates injector... so if anyone knows please let me know!

the simptom is that when engine is cold its working like 1 cylinder is off,like he run on 3 cylinder,and when i hit the gass he doesnt want to go over 6000 rpm and on 6000 rpm he is overflowing the fule, and i can see the fule going out on exhaust. and when the engine warms up,he is still spitting fule on exhaust,working a little better but sitll wont drive normaly.... please help!

the lambda sensor is new,bobine are new, sensor of temperature is new.

i tried to play a little with that regulator but i cant make it work normaly.
 
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