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I posted it here already somewhere. Its the low voltage one. A transistor and two other components need fitting to the proto area.
Technical Megasquirt
- Thread starter fingers99
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Technical Megasquirt
never had much luck using a transistor for some reason.
in the end I just connected the tacho directly to the ecu (via a 1k(iirc) resistor for protection against shorts) and its worked perfectly since ive run MS.
when I opened the cinq gauge its got its own conditioning circuits.
in the end I just connected the tacho directly to the ecu (via a 1k(iirc) resistor for protection against shorts) and its worked perfectly since ive run MS.
when I opened the cinq gauge its got its own conditioning circuits.
Asteris
Member
Beta 3.1.1 and 3.1.2 are fine with our cars, i got the best idling so far with them. 3.1.4 is broken, it gave me lean spikes on cruising. Avoid it.
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you try jeans latest alpha code?
Off to check my timing in a mo. think i know what i was doing wrong now
Off to check my timing in a mo. think i know what i was doing wrong now
Asteris
Member
Today i need the car working ok, so no tests. Tomorrow is a free day for experiments. What were you doing wrong with your timing?
where is this said alpha? I can only see a ms3 alpha release
(never mind)
(never mind)
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Asteris
Member
3.1.2 beta causes lean spikes due to rpmdot flunctuations. 3.2.0 alpha was given to me by Jean on Msextra forum to test. Not a public release, might have bugs.
yep I found out just after that post. I have it now and it seemed to run fine. it was really rich so for now I've lowered the req.fuel but it I can say there are no lean spikes and everything seems fine.
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Turns out nothing. I counted the teeth and I have 17.5 past the sensor, so that = 105 degrees.
I must have a slightly different trigger wheel.
Still not got it running though. Having a pig of a time, and ready to chuck a match in the tank lol.
Kristian
have you actually checked the timing with a timing light?
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of course at 105 in tunerstudio, fixed 10 degrees, the timing is bang on 10. It's always beeb like it on this car. Maybe its just a freak lol.
at 105 in tunerstudio, fixed 10 degrees, the timing is bang on 10. It's always beeb like it on this car. Maybe its just a freak lol.
yeah mine is as 104 and is spot on.
hey kristian... I was thinking about the "issue"of my missing teeth lining up.
If I drilled a new "nipple" hole in the timing wheel and turned it then the teeth shouldnt line up... obviously ill need to change the tooth 1 angle. can you see any other issues if I was to do this?
hey kristian... I was thinking about the "issue"of my missing teeth lining up.
If I drilled a new "nipple" hole in the timing wheel and turned it then the teeth shouldnt line up... obviously ill need to change the tooth 1 angle. can you see any other issues if I was to do this?
Asteris
Member
Why would you want to change the 1st tooth angle? If it is working as it is, leave it alone. Doesn't matter if mine is 114 and yours 104, or 84, or whatever, as long it is verified by the timing light.
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had an update from the dev's and the tooth in the missing tooth i bad, but the other tooths lining up is not an issue on a missing tooth setup.
http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=42771
Nice to know you have the same timing as me
I have modded mine anyway and already done what you said. I turned my wheel 120 degrees clockwise, and adjusted the timing accordingly. Now both edges of the cam occur well away from the missing tooth.
I'm wondering if my cam is occurring on the wrong cycle, causing my problems. Are you fully seq inj only?
http://msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=42771
Nice to know you have the same timing as me
I have modded mine anyway and already done what you said. I turned my wheel 120 degrees clockwise, and adjusted the timing accordingly. Now both edges of the cam occur well away from the missing tooth.
I'm wondering if my cam is occurring on the wrong cycle, causing my problems. Are you fully seq inj only?
Im running fully sequential now (needed because of the huge injectors I need to run)
The missing teeth on the crank should not line up with the missing tooth on the cam (think its to do with the ecu getting to much information at once or something)
I dont seem to have any issue but you never know
Another question for kristian.
when you went sequential... did you notice an large increase in time from turning the key till the ecu reads the rpm and fires?
just feels like it takes much longer the sync up
The missing teeth on the crank should not line up with the missing tooth on the cam (think its to do with the ecu getting to much information at once or something)
I dont seem to have any issue but you never know
Another question for kristian.
when you went sequential... did you notice an large increase in time from turning the key till the ecu reads the rpm and fires?
just feels like it takes much longer the sync up
thats brilliant! might try that now! what is your new timing number? (save me trying to figure it out.)
I only run seq injection im afraid
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IT's not working, it's not firing up, and sounds like a timing issue, so i'm trying lots of stuff to fix it. It's probably not the issue, but it's probably not harming. I actually forgot I used to run sequential ignition before however (cars been stripped a long time), so it would have worked as was. It must be another issue.
IT does take longer. Set skip pulses to 1 to speed it up. It will still take 1440 (two rotations) to get sync though.
Just add 120 degrees (roughly). Mine comes in at about 224 degrees
Asteris
Member
And you get cam signal from where? New 8V or 16V block with sensor on top, or mod?
glad its not just me taking what feels like forever to start. lol
You would of thought that they would make it so the first cycle is in batch/waste spark so the engine fires up sooner then jump to seq once its got the information it needs.
Guess this is how factory ecus work
You would of thought that they would make it so the first cycle is in batch/waste spark so the engine fires up sooner then jump to seq once its got the information it needs.
Guess this is how factory ecus work
