Technical Locking wheel nuts

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Technical Locking wheel nuts

WitleyPanda

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So the newest to the fleet seems to have a tracking issue. Have a spare set of wheels, so was going to put on a good set and off to laser tracking rig. But wheel bolts seem to be never to have been lubricated ( I know the marmite debate about lubrication on bolts) or over torqued. So three just about came out with a large breaker bar, but, Sod’s Law, fourth sheared the remover. These bolts have the anti force slip ring and shielded in the alloys. Obviously need a replacement extractor and will replace all the bolts with new ones.

But ideas to remove the last locking bolts?
 
Model
4x4 1.3MJ Antarctic
Year
2013
Mileage
89000
So the newest to the fleet seems to have a tracking issue. Have a spare set of wheels, so was going to put on a good set and off to laser tracking rig. But wheel bolts seem to be never to have been lubricated ( I know the marmite debate about lubrication on bolts) or over torqued. So three just about came out with a large breaker bar, but, Sod’s Law, fourth sheared the remover. These bolts have the anti force slip ring and shielded in the alloys. Obviously need a replacement extractor and will replace all the bolts with new ones.

But ideas to remove the last locking bolts?
Some tyre fitters have wheel lock removing tools, but in depends on the type of locking wheel nut.
You may end up resorting to violence, but have to be very careful not to damage the alloy wheels.:(
If you get someway towards loosening it, you may find having the other wheel nuts loose on the wheel with it jacked up and the wheel wriggled/pulled around a bit, the movement may reduce the tension on the damaged locking wheel nut.
 
Some tyre fitters have wheel lock removing tools, but in depends on the type of locking wheel nut.
You may end up resorting to violence, but have to be very careful not to damage the alloy wheels.:(
If you get someway towards loosening it, you may find having the other wheel nuts loose on the wheel with it jacked up and the wheel wriggled/pulled around a bit, the movement may reduce the tension on the damaged locking wheel nut.
I’m going with violence ! The features are masked by the broken key material and these have the free sleeves. So remove sleeve with cold chisels, then a IRWIN left hand twist extractor. Will put a larger plastic sleeve in the nut surround to protect wheel, but ultimately if it get damaged, less of an issue.
I had fun trying to remove a neighbour’s car wheel, legitimately, failed and AA used a hammer in tool, but even that went through 3 tips/plugs before finally yielding.
 
I’m going with violence ! The features are masked by the broken key material and these have the free sleeves. So remove sleeve with cold chisels, then a IRWIN left hand twist extractor. Will put a larger plastic sleeve in the nut surround to protect wheel, but ultimately if it get damaged, less of an issue.
I had fun trying to remove a neighbour’s car wheel, legitimately, failed and AA used a hammer in tool, but even that went through 3 tips/plugs before finally yielding.
I did have similar on a Ford Focus some years ago, and once the free wheeling stuff was out the way I hammered an old socket the wrong size over it and then along with the undoing the other wheel nuts and wrenching the wheel about so it took the tension of the locking wheel nut enough for me to undo it. The locking nuts with the wavy security bit seem most vulnerable to failure, I suspect if done up with an impact gun in the past, knowing what they are like I always try to make sure they are not overtightened and only with hand tools.
 
I know the marmite debate about lubrication on bolts
This post illustrates well why I'm on the side that lubricates their wheel bolts.

Some caveats:

1. Always degrease and re-lubricate the bolts when removing/replacing a wheel (in a roadside emergency, remove, degrease and replace when you get home). Even a tiny piece of dirt or grit in the grease will make it impossible to torque them properly.

2. Never tighten greased bolts to more than 2/3 of the dry torque specification, or you'll risk damaging the threads through overtightening.

3. Don't let anyone else refit a wheel with greased bolts, or they'll likely overtorque the bolts.

I've been greasing wheel bolts for 50 years, and have never had one loosen in service.
 
Last edited:
This post illustrates well why I'm on the side that lubricates their wheel bolts.

Some caveats:

1. Always degrease and re-lubricate the bolts when removing/replacing a wheel (in a roadside emergency, remove, degrease and replace when you get home). Even a tiny piece of dirt or grit in the grease will make it impossible to torque them properly.

2. Never tighten greased bolts to more than 2/3 of the dry torque specification, or you'll risk damaging the threads through overtightening.

3. Don't let anyone else refit a wheel with greased bolts, or they'll likely overtorque the bolts.

I've been greasing wheel bolts for 50 years, and have never had one loosen in service.
I agree, since 1969 as an apprentice I have always used a standard garage spider wheel brace and if threads look dry I have cleaned with a wire brush and personally used a small drop of copper slip (hear the big gasp from some quarters:)) once spun up firm the car is dropped back on the ground and the same spider wheel brace is used with that experience to finish tightening to my satisfaction.
I have never had a wheel come loose and never felt the need to use a torque wrench to check my work on wheel nuts, this includes over 40 years with my own business and regular repeat customers.
Some years ago there was reports of wheels coming loose or wheels breaking on ambulances etc. I think it was Bedford CFs from memory, I suspect the cause was tyre fitters using powerful airguns with little experience. As a result it became popular for everyone to grab a torque wrench to do wheel nuts.
 
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