General light switch,headlights

[the stig/130]

I seem to go through headlight switches, this one seems to have gone,ie,push switch downwards, dash lights either stay on or go off later, and, i know then i have no rear lights! i am sick off this! one day my fav hammer (rupert) will be in reach and i will smash the b**tard unit up! any
idea`s?........ i did smell a electrical burning type, something overloading the switch? this was before i changed the goldfish type bulbs for the xenon blubs

 

[Davren]

The usual problem with older Fiat switches was the silvered metal contacts burning inside the switch. Fortunately, it's usually easy to dismantle them to clean the contacts with fine dry, wet and dry paper. That should give them a new lease of life.

Dave

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

It'll be due to a dodgy earth creating a high resistance loading in the system.

Often a good clean of the earthing mounts under the bonnet should sort it. Failing that, it'll need to have the headlamp and main beam circuits individually relayed. Thats what I had to do with my Sisley in the end

Jon.

 

[the stig/130]

thanks the hon mep for suffolk, will have a go at that,(if not raining!)

 

[s5jst]

If you upgraded bulbs with H5 or xenon then it is better to fit some relays on dipped and full lights

All pandas (no mather date) has 45W bulbs for driving lights. If you change them (lbulbs) then your long/short switch drain too much current when switching. The switch has two small tongues which get hot (because of current) and they melt the plastic around (this is why the burny smell is present).

Nasty to change because all steering whell switches must be replaced

To cure this you have to reduce the current under steering wheel - relays do it very well.

How you do it?
- Unscrew cloth shelf on both ends (there are 3 screws that can be only partialy unscrewed).
- Pull down shelf
- A lot (and realy a lot) of place is there to juggle around
- Find wires for long/short lights and wire them with relay (one for each type of light)
- squeeze both relays under steering wheel and try lights (relay clicks when lights are switched)
- Screw back everything....


If anyone need some sketch I can stick it here...

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

If you upgraded bulbs with H5 or xenon then it is better to fit some relays on dipped and full lights

All pandas (no mather date) has 45W bulbs for driving lights. If you change them (lbulbs) then your long/short switch drain too much current when switching. The switch has two small tongues which get hot (because of current) and they melt the plastic around (this is why the burny smell is present).

Nasty to change because all steering whell switches must be replaced

To cure this you have to reduce the current under steering wheel - relays do it very well.

How you do it?
- Unscrew cloth shelf on both ends (there are 3 screws that can be only partialy unscrewed).
- Pull down shelf
- A lot (and realy a lot) of place is there to juggle around
- Find wires for long/short lights and wire them with relay (one for each type of light)
- squeeze both relays under steering wheel and try lights (relay clicks when lights are switched)
- Screw back everything....


If anyone need some sketch I can stick it here...

not sure about LHD panda's but I know the RHD's don't have any headlamp wiring connected to the steering switches other than the main beam which is relay switched.

The high rated bulbs don't tend to cause the problem, they just don't help though if the problem develops.

The interesting thing is that all lighting switches on switch a relay, so in thiory relaying the headlamp bulbs direct won't make a difference as its a differenct circuit in theiory, but as a last possible option as I said I relayed them on my Sisley and it sorted the problem. Was just a pain that the gearbox went only a few weeks later

 

[aquamarine]

I seem to go through headlight switches, this one seems to have gone,ie,push switch downwards, dash lights either stay on or go off later, and, i know then i have no rear lights! i am sick off this! one day my fav hammer (rupert) will be in reach and i will smash the b**tard unit up! any
idea`s?........ i did smell a electrical burning type, something overloading the switch? this was before i changed the goldfish type bulbs for the xenon blubs

Brian, let me know if you need a new switch. I think I have a spare lying around. Cheers, David

 

[Chas Uno]

The interesting thing is that all lighting switches on switch a relay, so in thiory relaying the headlamp bulbs direct won't make a difference as its a differenct circuit in theiory, but as a last possible option as I said I relayed them on my Sisley and it sorted the problem.

As the full electrical current for the standard headlight wiring runs through the light switch, fitting a relay will make a difference Jon. Any dodgy headlight earths or higher loads (e.g. higher wattage of bulbs fitted) will increased the amount of power handled by the switches. Using a relay allows all the power to the headlights to be sourced directly from the battery, with the headlight switch being used merely to to turn the relay on or off. The power handling of switch is thus greatly reduced, therefore minimising the chance of them becoming overloaded and burning out.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

As the full electrical current for the standard headlight wiring runs through the light switch, fitting a relay will make a difference Jon.

But on the Panda Dipped and Main beam are already relay switched

 

[Chas Uno]

But on the Panda Dipped and Main beam are already relay switched

Are you sure about that Jon? It's quite unusual for cars of the era and class of Pandas and Unos to have seperate relays for the headlights. Are we talking about relays that are directly linked to the battery with the headlight switch merely operating the relay itself?

The interesting thing is that all lighting switches on switch a relay, so in thiory relaying the headlamp bulbs direct won't make a difference as its a differenct circuit in theiory, but as a last possible option as I said I relayed them on my Sisley and it sorted the problem.

I'm confused. Your car apparently already had relays for the headlights but you "relayed them in your Sisley as a last possible option" to sort out a problem?

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Are you sure about that Jon? It's quite unusual for cars of the era and class of Pandas and Unos to have seperate relays for the headlights. Are we talking about relays that are directly linked to the battery with the headlight switch merely operating the relay itself?



I'm confused. Your car apparently already had relays for the headlights but you "relayed them in your Sisley as a last possible option" to sort out a problem?

Yep, 100% sure, all mk2's do anyways, we had a big investigation into it a while back and they dipped and mainbeams are relayed, but with the same relay (6pin iirc).

But dodgy earths to lamps etc, even though technically on a seperate circuit, seem to burn the switches out. laptop battery is about to die, but I'll dig links out tomorrow and post up for you to have a gander at

It's all fun and games these Italian Electrics

 

[s5jst]

As I remember headlight wiring goes something like this (LHD pandas 91-on for sure):
- from battery to main fuses (this is the par I am not sure if it is presen at the beginning or end of loop)
- to main light switch (on dashboard)
- from main switch to "steering wheel stick" (don't know the Eng.pronounciation) (here is the weak point)
- from main switch to engine bay
- from steering wheel to engine bay

There are 3 relays under fuses terminal: hazards, heating fan and I think wipers (identical to Zastava/Yugo).

I might be wrong but manuals and wires in my panda sais so

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Are you sure about that Jon? It's quite unusual for cars of the era and class of Pandas and Unos to have seperate relays for the headlights. Are we talking about relays that are directly linked to the battery with the headlight switch merely operating the relay itself?



I'm confused. Your car apparently already had relays for the headlights but you "relayed them in your Sisley as a last possible option" to sort out a problem?

Yep, 100% sure, all mk2's do anyways, we had a big investigation into it a while back and they dipped and mainbeams are relayed, but with the same relay (6pin iirc).

But dodgy earths to lamps etc, even though technically on a seperate circuit, seem to burn the switches out. laptop battery is about to die, but I'll dig links out tomorrow and post up for you to have a gander at

It's all fun and games these Italian Electrics

As I remember headlight wiring goes something like this (LHD pandas 91-on for sure):
- from battery to main fuses (this is the par I am not sure if it is presen at the beginning or end of loop)
- to main light switch (on dashboard)
- from main switch to "steering wheel stick" (don't know the Eng.pronounciation) (here is the weak point)
- from main switch to engine bay
- from steering wheel to engine bay

There are 3 relays under fuses terminal: hazards, heating fan and I think wipers (identical to Zastava/Yugo).

I might be wrong but manuals and wires in my panda sais so

https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-classic/157313-bright-idea-2.html?p=1671010

 

[s5jst]

Mine had only 3 relays when bought (all on scrapy looks like mine)

Anyway, we managed to solve lighty problem

The question now is how the stig/130 panda is build up and why not to fit another relay for dimm light.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Mine had only 3 relays when bought (all on scrapy looks like mine)

Anyway, we managed to solve lighty problem

The question now is how the stig/130 panda is build up and why not to fit another relay for dimm light.

We've got dim dip on uk Panda's. Its mounted under the bonnet the coil for that is.

 

[the stig/130]

thanks The hon. MEP for suffolk, will look near coil,