LHM or LHM+ (plus) whats the difference?

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LHM or LHM+ (plus) whats the difference?

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Hi any one chemically minded want to tell me the difference between
LHM and LHM+ Mineral Hydraulic oil (used in some car braking systems and Hydro suspension on citroen cars

need some for my mountain bike brakes just dont know the difference all the MTB forums use LHM but is there a problem using LHM +

:confused:


anyone?

thanks
 
no idea but for a mountain bike i wouldnt care what oil was in it
possibly one has a higher heat tolerance

overall for a mountain bike i would be happy with water n antifreeze. not that i would but

hydraulic breaks on a mountain bikes lol
 
no idea but for a mountain bike i wouldnt care what oil was in it
possibly one has a higher heat tolerance

overall for a mountain bike i would be happy with water n antifreeze. not that i would but

hydraulic breaks on a mountain bikes lol


yeh but put the wrong stuff in and it knackers the seals dont fancy fecking up £200 quids worth of brakes for the want of a £5 bottle of fluid.....

and it is possible to Boil the fluid (did that in the Dales on another set of brakes) fortunately at the bottom there was an incline so managed to stop safely)

also they are fairly maintenance free and sealed from muck and crap that gets into cable systems

when you end up coming down from these sort of heights at upto 50mph you want to know you will stop what ever the conditions

1779751782_8e79627672.jpg


1778831767_34a886afb3.jpg
 
Out of boredom been searching some of the oil company sites.

Seems that they all do 'Plus' now, couldn't find listings for a 'standard' product.

Cheers

SPD



Thanks for that thats all i could find, reason i ask is that the genuine Shimano stuff costs £12 for 50ml :eek: and all the bike forums say use LHM

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=663

Did one brake the other night with it (i had to as it went to the bars) just don't want to contaminate/knacker the other working brake
 
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LHM and LHM+ are the same stuff, its just branding. Had to get some for my Citroen BX, as long as its bright green its fine.

I still have a litre left if you want to come and get it lol!
 
looks a bit flimsy....

wilwood_fsc.jpg


much better :yum:

true but you can get them in 6 pot form

big_m6.jpg





well Daz you would look wonderful riding in those can you get an SPD cleat to screw into the sole??


LHM and LHM+ are the same stuff, its just branding. Had to get some for my Citroen BX, as long as its bright green its fine.

I still have a litre left if you want to come and get it lol!




Thanks for that, mate gave me a litre bottle of it from his Citroen one good thing about it it doesn't soak up moisture unlike D.O.T fluid
 
Ignorant question time. Do all push bikes with disk brakes have fluid operation :confused:

all the good systems do ;)

lets put it into perspective about 8-10 years ago when i begun getting seriously into mountain biking (let it slip recently if im honest) a cable disc brake cost in the region of £100 (caliper, pads and disc) then you had to add on the cost of the lever and cables and outer hose (cheap cables were no good as there was too much stretch and the cheep outer suffered with compression in the wire wrapping leading to spongy brakes )

anyhow the same brake can be had for £60 now

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31347

but they need regular stripping and cleaning as the cable is exposed at the actuator lever (yellow line in pic)
AVID.jpg

so each time you brake even though there is a little rubber seal water and grit get drawn in and migrate through the outer hose increasing friction leaving a crap feeling in the brakes...

and they have to be manually adjusted (constantly on a really wet gritty ride)

but they are simple to work on...

the Hydro systems its obviously sealed so muck can't get in the pads/ piston self adjust to wear and they have a consistent feel (unless you manage to find somewhere with the Mother of all hills and manage to heat the brakes up so much you boil the brake fluid :eek: then the lever comes back the the bars and have no power :eek: but smart use of the brakes helps

(then again these brakes that i boiled have the older stainless steel pistons newer ones have "phelonic" pistons think bakealite heat proof plastic which isn't conductive so the heat stays away from the fluid reduceing the chances of boiling...)

both systems can suffer from brake fade the same as a car




nope
ours will be cables since we are cheap and dont need hydralic

what bike you looking at buying daz? if you just want a round town and odd jaunt in the forest look for a bike with V-brakes not as snazzy but they will work..... pads/blocks are much cheaper and easier to get hold of (try finding pads to fit on some of the unbranded made in China disc brakes)

same can be said of suspension forks decent ones (ones that actually work and don't behave like a pogo stick) cost upwards of £200 so what quality are they going to be on a halfords £120 special baring in mind you still have to fund the rest of the bike so you get a crap chain, gear system etc as they have to fit the Forks/disc brakes into that price point .....

in a nut shell you get what you pay for

if i had the option between these

£190 full suspension with disc brakes:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_253075_langId_-1_categoryId_165499


and this one £180 Full rigid


http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_253053_langId_-1_categoryId_165534

i know which i would choose if i was after a "reliable" bike and one thats cheaper to keep going..... Try and source a rear Bush/ bearing for a cheap suspension bike pivot :ROFLMAO: bad enough getting hold of them for a £2k bike (cost me £20 each last time and i needed 4)

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