Technical Large Resistor Pack

Currently reading:
Technical Large Resistor Pack

Joined
May 15, 2006
Messages
1,362
Points
336
Location
North East
Hi can anyone tell me how if it is possible to check if the large resistor pack attached to the radiator is working or not it operates the low speed fan operation hope you can help

Bill
 
Ive had it off and it has five prongs I also have a multi-meter but unfortunately I dont know what to do with it I seem to have lost the instructions can you enlighten me please

Bill
 
get a wiring diagram for the cooling system (haynes). identify the part you have on the diagram and hopefully it will show the internal workings so you can decide which of the 5 pins should have continutiy with other pins. check all these to ensure internalls the connections are there as required. this is about as much as you can do. next identify the low speed signal wire whihc will be connected to one of the 5 pins. this wire should have a dc signal during the times when the low speed fan should be on. i would do a test on this wire to see if the signal is actually getting to the "large resistor pack". your problem may be a lack of signal, rather than an internal fault. if the multimeter says 0Vdc when you expect the low speed fan to be on then thats your problem. if the signal is there, also test the output to the fan in a similar way, this will be a different pin on the "large resistor pack". if no signal is getting sent this time you know the problem is internal and you can get a new part (scrapyard). i assume the fan still works on high speed. if not then test the fan by witring it direct to a 12v source (battery). if it still doesnt work get a second wire and give the fan a known good earth. if it still doesnt work the fan is broken.

personally i get the feeling that you arent getting the low speed signal wire sent. if that turns out to be the case use the wiring diagram to trace back whewre the signal should be sent from, and then test ofr it, keep going back through the circuit until you find the point at which the signal is lost, then repair or replace that part. what fun


(hey ur from stanley, another forum member close to me, we'll have enough to start a north east forum soon!)
 
Jug
Thanks for your info Ill have to print it off so I can follow it. I have a mobile air-con bloke coming out thursday Ill have to try and test it before then. I know both fans are working when the temp gets up but I dont know if one is starting before the other. The air-con bloke seems to think air-cons not working cause of gas for all Ive bought a refill at Halfords and followed instructions he did mention that it could be somit to do with vacuum. he reckons youre very lucky to get it to work after so long not working with a diy gas bottle.

Bill
 
if your a/c isnt used for months it almost always needs a good service to get it working again. even in winter you should use the a/c at least half an hour each week, just to keep it working.
 
I bought the car about six month ago and like a lot of people didnt know it had to be used at least once a month to keep it operational. I still havent fathomed out how to test bits of things relays and such. Had a proper bloke gas the car up properly today and it still didnt make the compressor work theres no leaks so all he could do was advise me to go to auto electrician he only charged £20 for the gas so it looks as though its an expensive auto electrician when I save up unless you could give me a lesson in using a multi-meter lol.
 
ah so the compressor isnt working when you switch the a/c on. i guess the light on the switch illuminates? first thing to test is the power supply to the compressor and its earth. remove the compressor wiring connector and use a wiring diagram (or blind faith) to determine whihc wire is the power supply, then switch the a/c on and test this wire is providing power using a multimeter. set the multimeter on DC voltage (20v setting if you have it, or 100 will do) and touch the red terminal onto the wire, at the same time have the black terminal touching a good earth, such as the battery negative terminal or a good chassis point such as a big bolt head. if there is voltage it means the compressor is getting power. if there is no voltage then the problem is in the supply, could be wiring or switch or fuse or relay. assuming you get a voltage you should do a continuity test on the compressor's earth wire using the multimeter continuity setting. continuity means the earth is connected to chassis. if it isnt then there is a simple wiring fault on the earth. if both the power supply and earth test ok then your compressor is probably to blame.
 
Back
Top