Technical Kitchen mixer tap not working

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Technical Kitchen mixer tap not working

Nenagh52

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when I turn it on it runs for a few second and then stops, which makes m think there is a small pressure vessel some where, maybe not, when I turn on the other taps kitchen tap will flow then so not the pump.
Just wondering how is the pump started, is it a flow switch or a switch in the tap.
I see some wires going up to the tap but have not looked much further yet
Thanks as always
 
On my towed vas there were two types. First was the caravan size which had a microswitch in the base of the tap. They can stick and on my whale taps were cleanable after the tap was removed and I am pretty sure replaceable, Whale after sales were superb on every occasion.

The standard tap was controlled by a pressure sensing switch in the hot water line. In my case near the on board tank, It was adjustable but might also benefit from a clean of the internal waterways, The one I had had a knurled wheel on top so screw it down clockwise to increase the pressure. Needed careful adjustment to prevent pusing on and off. Hope this gives you a starting point.
 
when I turn it on it runs for a few second and then stops, which makes m think there is a small pressure vessel some where, maybe not, when I turn on the other taps kitchen tap will flow then so not the pump.
Just wondering how is the pump started, is it a flow switch or a switch in the tap.
I see some wires going up to the tap but have not looked much further yet
Thanks as always
The presence of wires at the tap indicates that you have a microswitxh, rather than a pressure controlled system. Either the microswitch in the kitchen tap has failed, or it has become disconnected from the pump circuit. The microswitch should be replacable.
 
So two questions if I may
how do i deal with these connections, given that they need to come off to remove tap
1751458777900.png

then
do these just pull out
1751458867012.png

Thanks as always
 
They look like single use clips. You can replace them with standard jubilee type clips once they're off.

To get them off, you can either pry the overlapped section apart with a flat bladed screwdriver or, assuming there's room for it, a tool such as a Dremel will cut them.

Stating the bleedin' obvious, you should be careful not to damage the pipes - unless there is enough excess pipe in which case you can simply cut off the damaged ends.

Your second pic looks like a bog standard spade connector which should simply pull apart. If it's tight, spray electrical contact cleaner on it and gently persuade it with long nosed pliers around the 'neck'.

Refer to your image to ensure you get the polarity right when reassembling.
 
when I turn it on it runs for a few second and then stops, which makes m think there is a small pressure vessel some where, maybe not, when I turn on the other taps kitchen tap will flow then so not the pump.
Just wondering how is the pump started, is it a flow switch or a switch in the tap.
I see some wires going up to the tap but have not looked much further yet
Thanks as always

Yes you have a microswitch fitted , have you got this sorted yet ?
 
No not yet. A temp measure I am toying with is putting a push switch on the power for the summer

Ah right , well the actual switch is in the top of the tap , It's a bit of a fiddly job , but fairly easy . What kind of tap do you have , pic would be nice if you can !
 
Ah right , well the actual switch is in the top of the tap , It's a bit of a fiddly job , but fairly easy . What kind of tap do you have , pic would be nice if you can !
will post one tomorrow, van is in a garage off site, do you think it can be accessed without removing the tap from the worktop?
 
will post one tomorrow, van is in a garage off site, do you think it can be accessed without removing the tap from the worktop?

Well i had to change mine , after it wrestled with a hang glider (don't ask) , and broke the securing nut under the counter . My intention was to refit it in the bathroom using the nut from the one already in there . I gotta blue one in there , and i don't like the colour . However i heard about the microswitch , so i thought i'd take a look , and get a spare , along with a cartridge . I'm planning an extended trip abroad next year . So two common taps , one set of spares , get my drift , but i broke the handle , trying to get it apart . Turns out , there are two of the same type , look identical except one pushes together , and the other is held by a screw (guess which one i had) . I have to admit though , fair do's to Reich , it put up with an awful lot of grief , before it finally said enough .
Fairly easy to identify . If you have the temperature legend on the top , that is held by a screw , if it's in the side it's a push fit . The switch is directly underneath . You will need to remove the cartridge to feed the wires , but it just clips in . From what i saw , i deduced it could be done with the tap in place , infact in a lot of ways it may even be easier . Not sure i'd advise while having a full tank of water though . As you need to remove the cartridge , you would basically have an open pipe , and it could get awful messy if there's enough water pressure from a full tank .
Needless to say be careful if you have a pull apart tap , you don't know when it was last done so it maybe a bit stiff , but the screw version you will have to remove the legend to get at the screw . The replacement kit comes with new ones anyway , so don't worry about breaking them . You probably will anyway .

Photo's to make sure , we are talking about the same tap .
 
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Right so, here are the photos, as you surmised there is what looks like a Screenshot 2025-07-19 at 17.47.45.pngScreenshot 2025-07-19 at 17.47.27.pngScreenshot 2025-07-19 at 17.46.42.pnggrub screw, the smallest allen key I had with me was 10 which is too big
 
Right so, here are the photos, as you surmised there is what looks like a View attachment 470507View attachment 470508View attachment 470509grub screw, the smallest allen key I had with me was 10 which is too big

Oh wow , i was right to check the tap type , and yes that is a small grub screw . I'm afraid that's not the same as the one i worked on , but with that said , logic dictates the layout should be pretty much the same . Just be careful as you move forward and be prepared for the unexpected . I have another assumption , but it is purely that , again based on logic . I tend to think outside the box a lot nowadays , sorry .

So what i would expect to see , is the cassette in the base , like this one 20250526_095135 (1).jpg , now straight away , be aware mine was held in place by a lock nut like this . 20250526_095053 (1).jpg . It was a bit of a challenge to get at , but i finally succeeded with a pair of long nose pliers . Now i'm gonna throw another caution in here , mine appeared to be made of a soft brass , and was slightly damaged during removal . It didn't affect the tap going back together , so i strongly doubt it will have any affect on the tap operation itself .

Now the bit we are interested in , is the microswitch , and frankly i would expect to find that under the tap head . The motion of the rocker function activates , and de-activates the pump , and as it's a simple idea i wouldn't expect to find any different . So on that note , and to give you some idea of what your looking for i'll post what i found 20250526_094921.jpg to help ya out . Now unfortunately i don't have a fully assembled picture of my tap , and the new one is in the garage (yep still yet to fit it) , This is the actual body , with the faucet disappearing upward's . There are two ways the switch could be mounted , clip in , to the actual rocker as on mine , or screwed to the main body as was the case , with the guy who was advising me .

Now my assumption , well i'm gonna stick my neck out a bit here , i think your tap is one of the older designs , and with that , i suspect the rocker top will just pull off . Unlike mine your legend is on the side , and the screw has to be vertical That would lead me to suspect your micro switch is likely screwed in to the main body instead . However before you even think of following my logic , just remember i've broken one tap already , so go carefully . On the other hand , it maybe some time since this job was last done , so it may be stiff anyway .

I'm gonna post just one more pic , and that is of the part i broke ; 20250526_094856 (2).jpg This is the top of my tap with the water temperature legend , and the screw hidden under . Your legend is on the side , and it is that , that leads me to the assumption i made of your tap .
 

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Thanks for this, am assuming that you have the whole tap removed from the worktop?

Yeah , it was broken anyway , so i pulled it out before i removed the kitchen light , to save any more possible damage (Ahem , that went well didn't it) . Just so happens i've not finished the kitchen light , so it's lying in the overhead cabinet waiting to be fitted . All the modifications to the light are done , it just needs paint , but i've become bogged down with the fridge . Didn't source it from Hymer either , they wanted 160 quid for one . So instead i found exactly the same tap online , genuine brand new Reich for about 100 quid less . I also didn't have the earred pipe clamps either , just ordinary jubilee clips . I've got an ear clamp kit here , but i don't use it much . Too much hassle . They need to be exactly the right size , and even then you never know if they're gonna leak or not . If they do you can't just nip them up , like a jubilee clip , and you need a fair bit of access to fit them , plus they can be a right pain to remove . I ended up using a Dremel , and cut them off .
Yes i know they look more professional , but then i ent a professional , so why worry . Had them all over the cooling system and power steering , i replaced a few , but when the brain kicked in and questioned it , i went back to jubilee clips instead .

Like i said my original plan was to source a short spout , and refit it in the bathroom , using the nut from the bathroom tap . Can't think why Hymer actually fitted it in the first place . I thought (and we all know what thought did , huh) they were supposed to be a class motor , and that looks so crass . To make matters worse , even the shower mixer is chrome . My suspicion is , they probably ran outta chrome finish taps , so in typical foreign builders style , instead of stopping the line , they fitted whatever they had to hand . The practice was rife in the automotive industry over there at one time ! .
 
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