I posted a query about 3 weeks ago about my 1997 230 2.5tdi with an immobiliser fault ( code light on and non starter). I have had the key and immobiliser box checked by Autotronics of Leicester and they found 'no faults with units sent'. So my problem is still code light on and not starting, I have checked fuses and wiring seems ok with apparent damage. My question now is, is the immobiliser box antenna that clips to the ignition switch programmed to the ignition key or box or can it be changed without any programming.
Technical Immobiliser problem
- Thread starter glazig
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Technical Immobiliser problem
hi. as I have the same model 2.5tdi and don't have an immobiliser or code light I can only assume that this is an after market fitted unit fitted although im no expert I understand that the type of immobiliser used cut of the electric feed to the solenoid valve on the injection pump. so I sugest you check if this feed is live if not connect a live test feed from any live connection or battery to this lead then try starting if engine fires up this should indicate where your problem lies this of course is based on the assumption that your ignition is switching on and that the engine is turning over but wont fire. if this is not the case then im afraid im not much help. so good luck.
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Crossingkeeper
Established member
Hi, I also had the same model, however mine was 'de-immobilised' before I owned in that the 12v supply from ignition was fed directly to the solenoid (an after-market alarm had been fitted to take care of the security aspect)
My understanding is that the three wires you mentioned go to a PCB board inside the pump which then feeds the solenoid and this PCB board has to be removed to be able to directly feed the solenoid. As I didn't have to do it I won't advise on the procedure but it is detailed elsewhere on the forum.
My understanding is that the three wires you mentioned go to a PCB board inside the pump which then feeds the solenoid and this PCB board has to be removed to be able to directly feed the solenoid. As I didn't have to do it I won't advise on the procedure but it is detailed elsewhere on the forum.
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If the immo chip is in the key, you might indeed have an antenna near the ign. switch. If the chip is one of those littel dangly things on the key ring, you probably don't have one there. Is it the type where you have to physically put the chip into a socket or touch some other contact?
It sounds like, as you sent the parts away, that it is an aftermarket system, is there any marking on it to identify it or the maker?
If it turns out that there IS an antenna where you suspect, it will not be coded in any way (it will be a resonant length wire, which you need not concern yourself about, unless it is broken).
If it is there and can be removed, get a multimeter and check for continuity, but don't bung a load of V or A thru it! There could be an amplifier chip in it somewhere. If open circuit, you may be able to unwind the very fine coil of wire and re solder the break, this is hard and needs much care to avoid shorting the coils to each other. Or carefully remove the coils and count them as you go, get some coated (NOT plastic insulated) copper coil winding wire of the same gauge- used to be shellac'd-maybe from RS components or Maplin and rewind same number of coils back and check for open/short circuit as above.
I did one once on a Renault Espace, and got a result, but it was potentially risky! The likelihood of getting another if you ruin it is not helped unless it can be identified, and may still prove hard if the unit is as old as the vehicle.
Also, make sure that at least 12v is getting to where it needs to; voltage drop can wreak havok on immo's like this. I have seen it so myself! Don't forget to post back on here if you get a result please.
It sounds like, as you sent the parts away, that it is an aftermarket system, is there any marking on it to identify it or the maker?
If it turns out that there IS an antenna where you suspect, it will not be coded in any way (it will be a resonant length wire, which you need not concern yourself about, unless it is broken).
If it is there and can be removed, get a multimeter and check for continuity, but don't bung a load of V or A thru it! There could be an amplifier chip in it somewhere. If open circuit, you may be able to unwind the very fine coil of wire and re solder the break, this is hard and needs much care to avoid shorting the coils to each other. Or carefully remove the coils and count them as you go, get some coated (NOT plastic insulated) copper coil winding wire of the same gauge- used to be shellac'd-maybe from RS components or Maplin and rewind same number of coils back and check for open/short circuit as above.
I did one once on a Renault Espace, and got a result, but it was potentially risky! The likelihood of getting another if you ruin it is not helped unless it can be identified, and may still prove hard if the unit is as old as the vehicle.
Also, make sure that at least 12v is getting to where it needs to; voltage drop can wreak havok on immo's like this. I have seen it so myself! Don't forget to post back on here if you get a result please.
so it looks like you have a PCB board as Crossing keeper says. I have only the one connection going to the solenoid direct from the ignition and to which for security I fitted a secret switch so even though the engine turns over it will not fire up until the switch is pressed. I wonder what would happen if you disconnected the lead from the PCB board to the solenoid and made a direct connection from ignition switch to the solenoid. some one wiser then me may have the answer to that if it didn't do any harm it could be worth a try?? cheers
First thing with non start in those is check the inertia switch hasn't tripped its very common.
After that if the key and code unit on the steering column tested OK then the circuit on the pump has failed. If you're lucky and its not armoured you can remove it and bypass it in 5 mins, and then fit a thatcham 2 immobiliser instead.
If the pump is armoured its a real pain in the ass.
After that if the key and code unit on the steering column tested OK then the circuit on the pump has failed. If you're lucky and its not armoured you can remove it and bypass it in 5 mins, and then fit a thatcham 2 immobiliser instead.
If the pump is armoured its a real pain in the ass.
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Hi Jontee,,, I don't even notice stuff like that! Anyway, its a free country (allegedly!!) so vote as you will. Seriously, no probs mate, cheers.
Thanks to all who have replied, I now have a voltage feed to the pump connection, 12v on one wire and 11v on one and I think the third is an earth. So now its time to remove the solenoid unit from the pump but I need to get a long socket to undo the mount nuts. thanks all.
Prod the thumb.. it will go off
Got a similar immob thread today.. I will link to this one..
Charlie
Problem sorted, removed the immobiliser unit from the injection pump and wired direct to solenoid. Starts first turn. Once again a big thanks to all who replied.
brilliant !!!!
